EBC Comparison
i'm goin with a TT setup pretty soon, and i'll need to buy an EBC.
i read some bad reviews concerning the greddy ( Profec B spec2 ), the solenoid goes out,it is replaceable but it costs close to $200...
so what do u guys think ?
i read some bad reviews concerning the greddy ( Profec B spec2 ), the solenoid goes out,it is replaceable but it costs close to $200...
so what do u guys think ?
Originally Posted by zerosec
the APS already comes with an external solenoid...But where does the electrical connector go...?any idea ??
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I think the general consesus on these boards is that the HKS EVC VI is the best unit out there. I have an apexi avc-r and it works pretty well but its not very user friendly at all
Originally Posted by zerosec
well i already have the UTEC...
The only thing you may use is a map switch on the utec. Otherwise on a stock block there won't be really any difference in the way the car peforms that you will notice by using the utec over the supplied unichip. In terms of an EMS, I think the utec is a waste for an APS setup. The unichip is more than capable on an out of box setup on stock block. If you end up building your motor, I would jump to a higher end EMS like the haltech or Fcon.
Who knows, you tuner may be more comfortable with the utec, but I know the stock tune that comes with the unichip is pretty decent and would only need minor tweaking on the dyno
I want to throw Haltech in the mix... I know it is not really an option for the guys wanting only a boost controller - but it is one of the nice features that come with the pnp standalone ems.
The boost controller in the Haltech Platinum can be run in open or closed loop. It can be setup on multiple axis to reference whatever you like such as RPM, wheel speed, and we are just finishing up wheel slip. Under this setup you can have boost increase linearly or at set areas such as gear changes or interstate speeds. Adding the wheel slip axis allows you to configure it to fall back as low as wastegate boost if the car starts spinning.
The boost controller in the Haltech Platinum can be run in open or closed loop. It can be setup on multiple axis to reference whatever you like such as RPM, wheel speed, and we are just finishing up wheel slip. Under this setup you can have boost increase linearly or at set areas such as gear changes or interstate speeds. Adding the wheel slip axis allows you to configure it to fall back as low as wastegate boost if the car starts spinning.
Originally Posted by Hal@IP
I want to throw Haltech in the mix... I know it is not really an option for the guys wanting only a boost controller - but it is one of the nice features that come with the pnp standalone ems.
The boost controller in the Haltech Platinum can be run in open or closed loop. It can be setup on multiple axis to reference whatever you like such as RPM, wheel speed, and we are just finishing up wheel slip. Under this setup you can have boost increase linearly or at set areas such as gear changes or interstate speeds. Adding the wheel slip axis allows you to configure it to fall back as low as wastegate boost if the car starts spinning.
The boost controller in the Haltech Platinum can be run in open or closed loop. It can be setup on multiple axis to reference whatever you like such as RPM, wheel speed, and we are just finishing up wheel slip. Under this setup you can have boost increase linearly or at set areas such as gear changes or interstate speeds. Adding the wheel slip axis allows you to configure it to fall back as low as wastegate boost if the car starts spinning.
Thanks
JET
Originally Posted by Zivman
if you are getting the APS TT equiped with the unichip there will be no noticable difference between the unichip and the utec. You can run the utec, but you will need the specific Dtec solenoid in order for it to control boost.
The only thing you may use is a map switch on the utec. Otherwise on a stock block there won't be really any difference in the way the car peforms that you will notice by using the utec over the supplied unichip. In terms of an EMS, I think the utec is a waste for an APS setup. The unichip is more than capable on an out of box setup on stock block. If you end up building your motor, I would jump to a higher end EMS like the haltech or Fcon.
Who knows, you tuner may be more comfortable with the utec, but I know the stock tune that comes with the unichip is pretty decent and would only need minor tweaking on the dyno
The only thing you may use is a map switch on the utec. Otherwise on a stock block there won't be really any difference in the way the car peforms that you will notice by using the utec over the supplied unichip. In terms of an EMS, I think the utec is a waste for an APS setup. The unichip is more than capable on an out of box setup on stock block. If you end up building your motor, I would jump to a higher end EMS like the haltech or Fcon.
Who knows, you tuner may be more comfortable with the utec, but I know the stock tune that comes with the unichip is pretty decent and would only need minor tweaking on the dyno
i'll have to take my car to a tuner
@JET: Thanks for the PM.
i use the blitz sbc-id. been reliable since day one. alot of people use the hks evc here on the forums. when i spoke to my tuner, it was a toss-up between the two. but he threw in the power meter for free and it was sold. i have two boost settings(15 and 18psi) and never have trouble with either.
If you already have a UTEC, get the UTEC BCS for about $90. I'm sure the HKS EVC VI is awesome, but it is almost the same price as buying a UTEC.
The UTEC has both open and closed loop boost control and works very well.
The UTEC has both open and closed loop boost control and works very well.
Originally Posted by zerosec
But u can't tune the Unichip...
i'll have to take my car to a tuner
@JET: Thanks for the PM.
i'll have to take my car to a tuner
@JET: Thanks for the PM.
Originally Posted by Zivman
a proper tune is a very good idea. Unless you have experience tuning these cars and have access to a load based dyno, I wouldn't mess with it, you are just asking for trouble.
Dyno tune is great but Dyno and Street are different. What is perfect on the dyno may not be on the street. I still say it is nice to be able to do some logging and do some Minor Adjustment if necessary. A tuner will spend around a few hours tuning your car but you can have days/weeks to actually monitor your car. I always believe that there is no one who will put more time in your car but yourself. I'm not talking about adding some timing or leaning your A/F to increase power, I'm just talking about minor adjustment like pulling some timing or adding fuel if you see a constant knock on certain area. just my .02


