The De bolt has a range of 75-95 in-lb
The HR bolt has a 80 in-lb torque spec

 

I don't recall having to use any special tools with the oil cooler removal. It's been a long time since I did this mod though. I only remember everything being connected with hose clamps.

 

there is a special tool for those kinda clips, that dont slip off the tabs and bust your hands all up.. I use vice grips.

 

are you talking about the Auto trans cooling lines that run into the AT radiator?

 

Anyone here have to use impact guns to take off any bolts? I have everything I need but need to know that before I start.

 

I use mostly hand tools since I have no compressor at my house.
If I do work on my car at my friends shop I use a Air Ratchet.

For this job no impact gun is needed

 

An impact wrench is nothing but an invitation to strip a bolt head off or destroy the threads in the aluminum block. I never use one except on lug nuts or other bolts/nuts that I know can handle it.

 

Ok thank you both. I'll go ahead with this over the weekend.

 

Need to find a shop/someone who is willing to do this for me. I have all the parts just it seems like the local shops around here dont want to do it or cant.

 

the shops prob dont want to do this mod because of liability issues...seeing as how most shops never heard of this mod and dont know if it could potentially cause damage which will then bring headaches to them because the customer may try to say that the shop is liable because "They must have done something wrong".

Also, by doing this mod, isnt it considered messing with the emissions system? Because by deleting the "oil warmer/cooler" and radiator bypass hose the engine would take a lil longer to warm up, thus emitting more crap into the atmosphere

 

Yup......it would definitely be considered altering an emissions related item as it does affect cold start warmup times.

 

Emissions is not a concern. Most of the people doing this mod have other items that affect emissions more.

And i live in SC, we dont do emissions testing.

 

what part cant you do yourself? Its just bolt and unbolt.. super easy.

 

This is not something that would show up under emissions testing. They look at the emissions of a car at operating temperature, not cold start.



I have a related question (related to coolant hose). Anybody add the adapter to the radiator for installing a coolant temperature sensor? If so, what size adapter fits the OEM hose? I believe the ID of the hose is 33mm so I assume something slightly larger (34, 35mm) would be desired so that the hose fits tightly before clamps are applied.

 

34mm would work (http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/34-mm...ttachment.aspx). But those kinda sensor holders can be a pain if the sensor uses the threads to ground. Since the fitting is in the rubber hose (ie no way to ground itself), you have to run an additional ground wire and attach it to the body of the sensor somehow and run it to the engine block.

Better option is to drill and tap the rear coolant pipe.

 

Rear coolant pipe would be a good spot to tap. Keep the write length to a minimum too for a nice, clean install.

 

the welding part.

 

anyone with a mig can do that. my buddy did mine in his garage with a simple lincoln mig.

just cut off the pipes and lay bead on top of each other.

or, just cut the parts off and drill and tap. you can do that at home with hand tools.

 

Yeahhh, im not to good at welding either..

Do you guys know how much it cost to weld up the three nipples? (2 on the passenger, 1 on the driver?)

I went to welding/radiator shop, they quoted me 50 bucks, i think that is a little steep?

 

that's reasonable. welding doesn't come for cheap! My Lincoln Inverter tig is worth over $3000.

you may be able to get it done for less by checking around though. You never know when you will come across a welder in need of some coin!