i recently purchased a greddy tt kit

i had a few questions.

what bov will fit without any modifications.
do you feel that the oil pan that greddy provides is any good or would it be beneficial to find a finned oil pan.
Would running the 3 inch downpipe w/ wg dump be overkill for a daily driver slated for 400-450 hp?
will anyone buy the e-manage so that i can re-coup some costs?

thanks..

also a side note.
has aam rfs gotten better since last i checked the posts or should i still be going with cjm

 

1. Pick the BOV you like the look of or more importantly the sound of and go with it. All BOV have flanges that need to be welded on. From my experience the Greddy kit works best with 2 BOV's mounted on each pipe going into the intercooler. If you mount it after the intercooler you will still have issues with compressor surge.

2. The Greddy oil pan is fine. For a daily driver it is more than enough. It is aluminum and will dissipate heat. Save your money for something else.

3. The 3" downpipes are not needed, but their benefits such as increased flow which allows for better spool up. Open dumps are not for everyone, but they sound great if that's what you want.

4. I sold my e-manage for $200. It's not worth much.

5. Go with CJM. It's the best RFS out. No question about it.

JET

 

I agree with 1-4 100%.

However, I like AAM a little better, but that isn't the issue. Either RFS will be sufficient and serve your purpose.

 

I agree with these points, but 2 BOV's are not needed but are nice to have I suppose. I love my 3" DP and open dumps, they are perfectly fine for the street, the sound is amazing when boosting. I have the CJM RFS and it works well, but either wil probably do the trick for ya considering your power levels.

 

I agree, for a basic setup, two BOV's might not be necessary.

 

also about the bov, usually you want them closer to the throttle body anyways so putting it on the drivers side pipe going to the throttle body is just find for his power I would say.

 

I've got a question concerning the Greddy turbo's themselves...what's the reliability like on them? I've heard of people needing to rebuild them after 15k miles becaue of bad seals, cause by oil cooling only. Any truth to this?

 

that's not very common, the greddy turbos are very reliable.

 

i didnt know about the compressor surge. how significant is this?

 

so from what everyone is saying, the greddy tt kit does not have a flange for any bov and that needs to be welded into the pipe?

also since i am getting utec is it worth it to use the boost solenoid feature on that or to go with a standalone

 

I have UTEC with the HKS EVC and I love it the HKS unit.

 

ask ur tuner what he prefers. some like the boost feature of the utec and others are finiky about it. that would probably be the best approach rather than asking ur tuner do something he is not comfortable with imho.

 

2 BOV = NO GO! Hit yourself!

I had two BOV on my current set up but took one off. We Alberto and myself found out after driving driving each others car that when you shift fast that with two BOV you go into some serious Neg Vac, Now I have one BOV and can keep my boost (when shifting fast) right at 0 vac, and that equals faster spool when racing. 2 BOV IMO is a show thing def hurts you when racing (drag racing).
Some people will say that you choke with one BOV when running high boost 20psi plus....Whatever!

Luie

 

I have the Greddy RS BOV i love the sound of it def check it out.

 

There are also different BOVs and different springs to accomodate high boost levels. But, 2 BOVs are pointless and dumb. Expecially when most people dont even go over 15psi....

 

We'll I'm at 16psi.. Do I qualify for 2 BOV's? My turbo's are surging. other solutions?

JET

 

Surging when? With 3-4 lbs or full boost?

I run 19psi on an old greddy type s and I dont surge.

 

Depending on which BoV you're using, you might try loosening the preload screw on the top a quarter turn at a time until the flutter disappears.

 

That might be because of how they were positioned. If I recall correctly, you had your BOV's on the charge pipe right next to each other. What JET is suggesting is that is that a BOV is mounted on each intercooler inlet pipe. I presume this might alleviate the issues you were having, but then again maybe not.

 

I did some checking out of things when I had my car at performance factory. On the dyno, when you let off the gas, you could hear the air backing up in the turbos and then blowing out of the air filters. I ended up going with dual BOVs - one on each of my intercoolers. The BOVs are welded to the "hot side" endtanks. You have greater pressure on the hot side of the intercooler as the intercooler represents a restriction in the plumbing. This design completely eliminated any reversion through the turbos.