anyone else?

 

The polarity is different between a vac leak and boost leak..Might be possible you have a minor vac leak but small enough that you could still make boost w/o significant loss of pressure..??

 

any decent auto shop has a smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks. why guess?..

 

same problem here. i reset ECU and do idle air relearn, and shortly after the problem comes back (P0507 - high idle). Any fixes anyone? It isn't a vacuum leak. I suspect that the throttle body has gone bad...

 

This happen to me one time the other week were the weather was around 98F here in NY and my AC was on. Every time I shift to Neutral my RPM stay around 2000rpm then a few seconds later it will drop to 900rpm. We haven't seen high 90's so I haven't turned on my AC yet and so far no CEL yet. By the way I have Utec and I used to turn on my AC a lot last year and never had this problem.

 

I know it's been forever, but I just wanted to let people know that I replaced the maf sensor and throttle body and still had the same problem... I was about to take it into the a shop for a vacuum test, but then I rolled it... So I guess I got rid of the problem? Haha good luck guys... If anyone ever found a fix for this it would be nice to complete this thread.

 

I took my car to the dealership and they wanted to replace the throttle body at my expense because of this. I decided to take it back home. I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, reinstalled the stock intake piping, ensured all hoses/clamps were snug, did all of the ECU re-learns, and voila, the car was back to normal.

A few weeks later I tried my luck again with the 350z intake tube, ensurring this time that the TB butterfly valve was not touched at all. Once I ensured that everything was properly installed, I started it up and the idle continued to remain within proper running spec.

4 months later, and still no idle air issue...despite the fact that the stealership claimed that the TB went bad.

 

I have the same problem, did you fix it?

 

Holyresurrectionbumpbatman!

 

Had the same problem here , tried everything and still having the same issue...
i replaced the TB, cleaned the intake pipe and MAF...nothing changed.
mods are headers, exhaust, cams, and air intake.

 

Anyone ever figure out how to fix this?!?

 

There is no 1 "fix" for this. There are hundreds of things that can cause it and the car needs to be tested.

More than likely it's a vacuum leak, throttle body (or needs to be properly re-learned; most people don't do the relearn exactly how the manual states and it won't actually re-learn), or a dirty maf causing bad readings.

 

Well im mechanically inclined and did a bunch of searching and critiquing little things and my car has been to about 6 shops and now shes at one of the best in the industry, Forged Performance so we shall see soon and I will post up what the culprit was fory situation.

 

Forged will find it.

 

I love that simplistic confident reply! We shall see today!

 

How did this turn out? I need to get this same code permanently cleared (I have the GTM Supercharger kit)...It's worth driving down to Forged if they were able to fix it.

 

Hey guys - I had this same problem after removing throttle bodies to change spark plugs on the VQ35HR.
Could not get the idle learning procedure to work - even with nissan data scan etc. I have heard of people needing ECU updates, new TBs etc etc, however most conclude there is an issue with the ECU.
What worked for me was another thread on here - simply unplug both throttle bodies whilst the battery was still connected - and it worked and now Im idling 750 - not 1500!!!

Hopefully it will work for you too!

 

Yeah the problem is that when people disconnect the battery to remove the TB, they more than likely will plug everything back in before connecting the battery. This will always cause a faulty glitch to the program/ecu's memory ; resulting in high idle. Hence why even the procedures don't reset it because they cant access that part of the memory module.

You can also relearn the TB manually ( if you have a manual ) use the clutch to bring the rpm down ( like you are about to stall ) to around 750ish .. do this a couple of times and then turn car off and back on. Should be back to normal after.

Cheers to an old thread bump

 

Hm, I am recently having this issue after valve cover replacement. I was about to go ahead and get a new throttle body in hopes of fixing it but I'll try unplugging it and plugging back in this weekend. It sounds like thats all I need to do?

 

Unplug the Negative Cable from Battery. Unplug the TB. Wait a min or so.. Plug back the Negative to the battery and then plug back the TB. If you have a manual, use the clutch to bring it back down without stalling. Do this a few times and it will relearn.