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Random pictures from powerlabs turbo install

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Old 04-14-2008, 09:59 AM
  #41  
G3po
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Originally Posted by taurran
That 4-bolt flange on the turbine outlet brings back nightmares. V-band is mucho easier.

I'm assuming that's why they leave the turbine housing off, becuase it's impossible to tighten those bolts on the flange without doing it. Just be extremely careful when putting the turbine wheel in the housing, it's really easy to do some damage if not careful.
Hmm , I had the same thought, I wonder why PL didn't go with a V-band housing? The V-band option is available for the .82 housing with T3 inlet.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GRT

Last edited by G3po; 04-14-2008 at 11:20 AM.
Old 04-14-2008, 12:12 PM
  #42  
IntenseFab
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Originally Posted by G3po
Hmm , I had the same thought, I wonder why PL didn't go with a V-band housing? The V-band option is available for the .82 housing with T3 inlet.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GRT
The V-Band option is available from Tial as well and it's a double v-band but the cost on housing, flanges and clamps are 400+$. If the end-user was willing to chuck another 400$ at the pot im sure they wouldn't have a problem making it work.
Old 04-14-2008, 12:53 PM
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Looks like fun.
Old 04-14-2008, 02:40 PM
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Default v-bands

Originally Posted by IntenseFab
The V-Band option is available from Tial as well and it's a double v-band but the cost on housing, flanges and clamps are 400+$. If the end-user was willing to chuck another 400$ at the pot im sure they wouldn't have a problem making it work.
Double V-bands on a SS housing make me drool....

http://www.tialsport.com/prod%20ss%20turbo.html#sgt2528

Last edited by G3po; 04-14-2008 at 02:51 PM.
Old 04-14-2008, 02:52 PM
  #45  
failsafe306
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You'll probably want to re-route that a/c line as far as you can from the turbo flange.
Old 04-14-2008, 03:12 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by G3po
Good pics.
Curious about the up-pipe , WRT the pipe with V-band underneath and the four bolt flange (up-inlet to the housing).
Does it appear possible to bolt the housing to that pipe "first" and then snake the up-pipe down to the bottom, (attaching the v-band last)?

Those bottom four bolts look pretty nasty to get to as well that the down pipe flange.
You might able to install the cross over pipe first and then install the up pipe from the front of the car, its a pretty ticky pipe to mount, however I do feel that there's enough room to go from the front. Either way, I don't think its going to be as bad to install those 4 bolts as you think. It's all in having the right tools and hitting it from the right angle. Trust me, you'll here me bitching about it on here if its a pain. I was going to do the turbo tonight but I'm feeling kinda crappy (head ache) so I might just let it be for now wait till tomorrow.

Over all this install has been pretty easy believe it or not. Just a matter of getting your feet wet.
Old 04-14-2008, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by failsafe306
You'll probably want to re-route that a/c line as far as you can from the turbo flange.
Once the turbo is put in place, I was planing on bending it to the right or down depending on where the housing sits.
Old 04-14-2008, 03:16 PM
  #48  
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Default water tanks.

Thanx,
I was also wondering were the WW and Coollant overflow tanks get moved?
From the IP webite , I don't see them and the intake pipe looks like it pretty much dominates that front passenger side area.

Last edited by G3po; 04-14-2008 at 03:24 PM.
Old 04-14-2008, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by G3po
Thanx,
I was also wondering were the WW and Coollant overflow tanks get moved?
From the IP webite , I don't see thme and the intake pipe looks like it pretty much dominates that front passenger side area.
You fully remove the WW tank, the coolant tank... I've yet to get there.
Old 04-14-2008, 03:31 PM
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Default tanks

Hmm, that's good to know, no more WW tank. Kind-of a drag.
Gotta have a coolant overflow somehwhere..
Old 04-14-2008, 03:33 PM
  #51  
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Awesome thread! Big props to you for doing it YOSELF! Subscribed!
Old 04-14-2008, 03:36 PM
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Jeff i would heat wrap the crap outta the ac line......and btw i answered your pm bro.Redlines with faded mirrors ftmfw.
Old 04-14-2008, 03:48 PM
  #53  
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I just went to my garage and looked at the turbo flange, there's with out a doubt more then enough room to get to the bolts from the bottom. I might have to remove the sensor (maybe just unclip the connector) that is sitting on the A/C compressor other then that it looks straight forward from the bottom up.

Also, the directions do not list that you need to remove the O2 from the drivers side manifold, I found out last night you have to remove it, plug the hole with the supplied plug, and move the O2 into the down pipe. I was worried about having to remove the top part of the DP (its two pieces) and also backtrack with the cross over/up pipe, but it looks like I can easily get to the O2 from under the car and plug the hole.

With most of this install being done, I think the hardest part of it would be installing the injectors/spark plugs since you have to remove a lot of bolts to get the intake off, outside of that, anyone who has had their intakes off should be able to handle this install.
Old 04-14-2008, 09:01 PM
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Very nice. Greta seeing some DIY here.. Crazy how they got that 3" to fit. very nice and well done!
Old 04-14-2008, 09:37 PM
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I hate migraines, I came home, talked with intense for a good 30 minutes, checked up on the forum and then laid in bed for a good 4 hours.

its 1:30am and now I'll be up for another few hours and have to work int he am. doh!

ohwell, tomorrows plans are to remove o2 and replace with plug, finish mounting the PS cooler and depending on Linh I might do the turbo.
If things go faster then expected I might finish up the exhaust piping - the wastegate.
Old 04-15-2008, 05:32 AM
  #56  
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Slow down!!! I'm trying to have it done on my car first!!!
Old 04-15-2008, 06:45 AM
  #57  
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Absolutely Awesome Jeffie!!!
Old 04-15-2008, 06:52 AM
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looks good!!
Old 04-15-2008, 06:45 PM
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I wasn't able to do as much as I would have liked, got off late, then didn't make it out to the garage late. =(

I remounted the PS cooler, I wasn't a fan of how the directions show it mounted, it used a single bolt, I had it like that but felt that it bounced around a bit too much, so I remove the side mount (was at the bottom once cooler was remounted) and then doubled up the top, making it so I was able to have 2 mounting points. I had to bend things around a bit, but in the end it mounted nice and looks somewhat like it was meant to be there. I also taped up the not used connectors and zipped tied them into place.

I mounted the down pipe and started working on the uppipe to the turbo, with the water line slightly bent out of the way, I can easily get to the bottom bolts and the top left bolt. however the top right bolt is another story, only way I can see to get to that one is from the bottom. Tomorrow I'm going to pick up some of



This should allow me to easily reach the bolt with some what ease. I can use a normal wrench, but it would take way to long since I can only move the bolt a tiny bit at a time.

not sure if I'll make it out there tomorrow, if not I'll get back to work on Thursday.




Old 04-15-2008, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by failsafe306
You can also take a pry bar and pry that coolant line coming out of the front to the left of the turbine housing so it sits back under the head there. I did this on all the turbo installs I've helped with and it gave me a little extra clearance to work with (and the turbonetics kit had an AC line running next to it). Just a small touch to keep anything rubber away from that hot housing/dp.


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