Random pictures from powerlabs turbo install
#101
Originally Posted by tig488
looks good, but can you rotate the center cartridge clockwise more, you need the oil inlet to be as straight downward as it can get.
#103
Originally Posted by superchargedg
Looking real good Jeff.If its done in time are you coming to the CPT event.
I'm hoping to get it done today, I'm pretty much done other then trying to figure out if my charge pipe is a bit too big, I've seen another PL setup and the pipe doesn't sit as far forward as mine, however my pipe is sitting flush with the throttle body so it can't go back any farther =( Also they were able to keep the PS container in the factory location so that also throws a flag. either way the car as it sits now - the utec and oil and loose exhaust hardware and 3 vacuum lines "should" be able to fire up.
I still need to get this Utec problem sorted out.
#104
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Originally Posted by jeffie7
CPT?
I'm hoping to get it done today, I'm pretty much done other then trying to figure out if my charge pipe is a bit too big, I've seen another PL setup and the pipe doesn't sit as far forward as mine, however my pipe is sitting flush with the throttle body so it can't go back any farther =( Also they were able to keep the PS container in the factory location so that also throws a flag. either way the car as it sits now - the utec and oil and loose exhaust hardware and 3 vacuum lines "should" be able to fire up.
I still need to get this Utec problem sorted out.
I'm hoping to get it done today, I'm pretty much done other then trying to figure out if my charge pipe is a bit too big, I've seen another PL setup and the pipe doesn't sit as far forward as mine, however my pipe is sitting flush with the throttle body so it can't go back any farther =( Also they were able to keep the PS container in the factory location so that also throws a flag. either way the car as it sits now - the utec and oil and loose exhaust hardware and 3 vacuum lines "should" be able to fire up.
I still need to get this Utec problem sorted out.
#105
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Originally Posted by jeffie7
CPT?
I'm hoping to get it done today, I'm pretty much done other then trying to figure out if my charge pipe is a bit too big, I've seen another PL setup and the pipe doesn't sit as far forward as mine, however my pipe is sitting flush with the throttle body so it can't go back any farther =( Also they were able to keep the PS container in the factory location so that also throws a flag. either way the car as it sits now - the utec and oil and loose exhaust hardware and 3 vacuum lines "should" be able to fire up.
I still need to get this Utec problem sorted out.
I'm hoping to get it done today, I'm pretty much done other then trying to figure out if my charge pipe is a bit too big, I've seen another PL setup and the pipe doesn't sit as far forward as mine, however my pipe is sitting flush with the throttle body so it can't go back any farther =( Also they were able to keep the PS container in the factory location so that also throws a flag. either way the car as it sits now - the utec and oil and loose exhaust hardware and 3 vacuum lines "should" be able to fire up.
I still need to get this Utec problem sorted out.
#106
Originally Posted by diwun67
Get a sawzall and "adjust" the pipe
Another one of those, buying the first run of kits, theres a chance that it isn't 100% right.
hopefully its just something I'm overlooking.
#107
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Originally Posted by jeffie7
If intense finds that the pipe is for sure to long I will hacksaw it if need be.
Another one of those, buying the first run of kits, theres a chance that it isn't 100% right.
hopefully its just something I'm overlooking.
Another one of those, buying the first run of kits, theres a chance that it isn't 100% right.
hopefully its just something I'm overlooking.
#108
Originally Posted by DaveFunction2ND
Shouldn't be that way. Hopefully its an adjustment issue. If you do hacksaw remember you need a bead rolled in the end otherwise the coupler will blow off under boost.
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When you say flush with the throttle body, do you mean the charge pipe is pushed as far "into" the coupler as it can go, and is actually hitting the lip on the throttle body?
If not, I'd say just loosen up that TB coupler and push it as far in there as it will go and retighten it.
If not, I'd say just loosen up that TB coupler and push it as far in there as it will go and retighten it.
#110
Originally Posted by taurran
When you say flush with the throttle body, do you mean the charge pipe is pushed as far "into" the coupler as it can go, and is actually hitting the lip on the throttle body?
If not, I'd say just loosen up that TB coupler and push it as far in there as it will go and retighten it.
If not, I'd say just loosen up that TB coupler and push it as far in there as it will go and retighten it.
I just talked with Intense and they said it looks like I'm going to have to notch out the fender where the charge pipe coming off the I/C is. thats why its forward to the point of hitting the PS bottle. Also, it might be pushing the charge pipes over and making the last pipe going to the throttle body hit the rad cap, he did say it was a very close fit, but not THAT close. =)
Now I just need to get that damn utec working.
=(
#111
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Originally Posted by jeffie7
I don't think so. Maybe intense can point me in the right direction. From what I can tell, no you can't
You actually have to unbolt it from the rear housing and clock it so that the oil feed is at the highest point and not at a 45 degree angle. I know it is not the most appealing task right now when you are so close to starting it all up, but when the oil doesn't drain/return from the lowest point of the turbo because it is at an angle it could definitely lead to bigger problems. I don't think you want to start up you car with anything at risk? or do you?
Please check with PL and verify but I can tell you it is not looking good with the turbo setup tilted at a 45 degree angle. The oil input must be on top and the oil drain aka return at the lowest point.
You are making great progress and the pictures are great to see. Good luck.
#112
Originally Posted by rrmedicx
You actually have to unbolt it from the rear housing and clock it so that the oil feed is at the highest point and not at a 45 degree angle. I know it is not the most appealing task right now when you are so close to starting it all up, but when the oil doesn't drain/return from the lowest point of the turbo because it is at an angle it could definitely lead to bigger problems. I don't think you want to start up you car with anything at risk? or do you?
Please check with PL and verify but I can tell you it is not looking good with the turbo setup tilted at a 45 degree angle. The oil input must be on top and the oil drain aka return at the lowest point.
You are making great progress and the pictures are great to see. Good luck.
Please check with PL and verify but I can tell you it is not looking good with the turbo setup tilted at a 45 degree angle. The oil input must be on top and the oil drain aka return at the lowest point.
You are making great progress and the pictures are great to see. Good luck.
GT35 with the power labs kit does not allow for the housings to point straight down, there is no room for it. Trust me I wish there was since it would be better. Maybe if I had different fittings, or if I ran it the other way, though the frame rail (to the right) then back down, but that would be even worse, as it is right now, it comes out at a 45 then goes from that to an elbow that shoots it straight down. check out the pictures again, and as far as rotating it again, I wouldn't mind its not hard at all, 6 bolts on the cover and 6 on the turbo housing. its pretty simple to do.
It will either hit the up pipe, or the frame rail. if turned.
After talking with Intense, it turns out some cars have to mod the metal where the charge pipe coming off the I/C is. That was my issue with the PS container not fitting, as with the charge pipes being out of wack, although the charge pipe going to the throttle body still seems a bit tight, but doable.
My custom saw I used a hacksaw blade for cutting both the metal for the charge pipe and the plastic tab on the rad. Too hard to fit a whole saw in there. but the blade did the trick.
Still super close =(
O2 sensors harness as with some other wires going else where on the car. I'm not a fan of using heat tape when you could be rerouted.
Yes I know, overkill on the zipties, however, I don't care, they're dirt cheap, are easy to put on and just as easy to cut off.
Now the wire harness doesn't go near the cross over pipe. =)
Car is pretty much ready to go, everything put the upper charge pipes are tight, just need to add oil, and get Utec on the phone about issues loading a map.
Once thats done, it should be ready to fire up.
Last edited by jeffie7; 04-20-2008 at 05:50 PM.
#117
Originally Posted by DanielW
can't wait to see the results on this bro. congrats on the DIY install. you'll have video no doubt?
As far as seeing how fast the sucker will go, there's so many factors outside of the powerlabs kit, its pointless, unless I do another thread with random videos =)
#120
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Originally Posted by Jay'Z
Ok.. It looks higher in the pics.. Bad *** so far jeffie!! BTW what cc inj u going to run?