[STS] Engine Failure - Failed OEM Oil Pump?
05-06-2008, 08:42 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by fklentz
I'm not sure about the remote location not being a problem. I'm sure this taps into the system right at the sending unit like most systems do. The problem I see is if the remote turbo has no restrictor or too small of a restrictor it would allow too much flow away from the bearing journals inspite of the fact that the gage is indicating sufficient pressure. Looking at the service manual the sending unit is right at the oil filter so the turbo splits the oil supply with the rest of the engine, definatly not the last thing supplied.
Picture it like a house that the hot water is not plummed properly, somebody flushes the toilet when you're having a hot shower and it suddenly turns cold or scalding hot. I've only seen one of these installed and it was in a chevy truck and it had it's own oil system.
I can't tell a lot from the photos, any idea which one's failed first? I would think the rear of the engine moving to the front as pressure dropped.
Picture it like a house that the hot water is not plummed properly, somebody flushes the toilet when you're having a hot shower and it suddenly turns cold or scalding hot. I've only seen one of these installed and it was in a chevy truck and it had it's own oil system.
I can't tell a lot from the photos, any idea which one's failed first? I would think the rear of the engine moving to the front as pressure dropped.
05-07-2008, 12:35 PM
#42
I MIS-stated, rather than too small I meant too big of an orfice in the restrictor. The oil supply to the remote turbo will take oil volume that was intended for supply to the bearings, cams and actuators for cam control. From what we see in the pictures the bearings were starved for oil and failed. As others stated there's no reason or indication it was tune related, that leads to something with the turbo install.
I would think that the restrictor for a bb turbo would need to be way smaller than non bb.
I would think that the restrictor for a bb turbo would need to be way smaller than non bb.
Last edited by fklentz; 05-07-2008 at 12:38 PM.
05-07-2008, 01:10 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by fklentz
I MIS-stated, rather than too small I meant too big of an orfice in the restrictor. The oil supply to the remote turbo will take oil volume that was intended for supply to the bearings, cams and actuators for cam control. From what we see in the pictures the bearings were starved for oil and failed. As others stated there's no reason or indication it was tune related, that leads to something with the turbo install.
I would think that the restrictor for a bb turbo would need to be way smaller than non bb.
I would think that the restrictor for a bb turbo would need to be way smaller than non bb.
This latest theory bothers me. It is most disturbing because if it is true, then the cause of my previous engine failure (the oil restriction on the BB turbo which IS way smaller than that on the non-BB) is still present on my vehicle.
Can anyone else chime in on this theory?
05-07-2008, 01:50 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by goosegoose
This latest theory bothers me. It is most disturbing because if it is true, then the cause of my previous engine failure (the oil restriction on the BB turbo which IS way smaller than that on the non-BB) is still present on my vehicle.
Can anyone else chime in on this theory?
Can anyone else chime in on this theory?
I woudl say it was an oil related issue but leaning more towards contaminants causing the bearings to send bearing material all through the engine. If it were starvation, I would think there would be some material transfer between the pistons and cylinder walls also..Any pics of the cylinders?
05-07-2008, 06:01 PM
#45
Originally Posted by Julian@MRC
I doubt this was the cause....However we have an oil restrictor made for Garrett turbos that makes the orifice smaller, restricting the flow to the bearings. Usually the turb will smoke if the oil pressure is to high.
I agree with that but that is on a turbo right at the engine, with this one mounted so much further from the engine I don't know if it would be the same, whats the EGT at the turbo? When these remote mounted units came out people were skeptical of their performance because of that reason.
It's hard to say, sometimes just the smallest spec of debris can embed in a bearing causing a hot spot. That one little hot spot can over time get bigger and eventually spread babbit thru the galleries and just kill an engine. It would be a great mod if someone couls mount a sensor boss on the back of the engine to get the pressure from the most remote bearing, that would give a better indication of engine health seeing the supply pressure and end pressure.
05-17-2008, 01:39 PM
#46
You can wrap the Oil lines 2 times around the car and it still won't affect it as long as you put in the oil to compensate! The size of the lines used equalize pressure in the system so as long as the oil is there it will be ok!! Now if the hose was bigger then it would require more volume to push the oil through therefore dropping pressure and you would see that in the gauge! Freak things happen Man!! I used to work at a Dealership back in the Day and one time driving a brand new truck off of the Transporter with .3 miles on it, The timing chain broke?!?!?! Chit Happens!!
05-18-2008, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by doug
i hope thats not the same one who blew randy's motor and turbo's
05-20-2008, 06:35 AM
#49
Originally Posted by Julian@MRC
Yes it is Doug...Yes it is..and you mean "BOTH" of randy's motors..His stock one and his built one..
people always say a tuner is a tuner.. anyone can read A/F and tune for it.. but its the ignition that comes back to bite you in the ***.. and lets face it.. the Supra Ignition system is no where close to the 350z Ignition system.. Nissan really made those ignition systems durable and stout.. but they are very touchy
05-20-2008, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by doug
lol.. i guess they arn't made out for the 350z game..
people always say a tuner is a tuner.. anyone can read A/F and tune for it.. but its the ignition that comes back to bite you in the ***.. and lets face it.. the Supra Ignition system is no where close to the 350z Ignition system.. Nissan really made those ignition systems durable and stout.. but they are very touchy
people always say a tuner is a tuner.. anyone can read A/F and tune for it.. but its the ignition that comes back to bite you in the ***.. and lets face it.. the Supra Ignition system is no where close to the 350z Ignition system.. Nissan really made those ignition systems durable and stout.. but they are very touchy
05-20-2008, 06:42 AM
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05-22-2008, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Sub zero
Hey one question then!! Knowing what you know from what you have experienced! What Kit would you go with?
The turbo being so far in the rear, takes 2-3 pulls on the dyno to reach a good operating teperature to make the boost we set it at. The first 2 pulls would make weak boost like 6-7 psi, then by the 3rd and 4th pulls we finally saw the 9-10 we dialed in..By this time the turbo begins to blow tons of hot air causing knock...No matter what we did, either the car would not make good boost, or would knock like a mo fo...
FAIL.
05-22-2008, 03:57 PM
#54
Originally Posted by Julian@MRC
I dont know about the OP, but i had a chance to retune his new set up last week, and no matter what we do, we can not get consistant and safe power numbers..
The turbo being so far in the rear, takes 2-3 pulls on the dyno to reach a good operating teperature to make the boost we set it at. The first 2 pulls would make weak boost like 6-7 psi, then by the 3rd and 4th pulls we finally saw the 9-10 we dialed in..By this time the turbo begins to blow tons of hot air causing knock...No matter what we did, either the car would not make good boost, or would knock like a mo fo...
FAIL.
The turbo being so far in the rear, takes 2-3 pulls on the dyno to reach a good operating teperature to make the boost we set it at. The first 2 pulls would make weak boost like 6-7 psi, then by the 3rd and 4th pulls we finally saw the 9-10 we dialed in..By this time the turbo begins to blow tons of hot air causing knock...No matter what we did, either the car would not make good boost, or would knock like a mo fo...
FAIL.
Last edited by Sub zero; 05-22-2008 at 07:37 PM.
05-22-2008, 04:32 PM
#55
Originally Posted by Sub zero
Hey one question then!! Knowing what you know from what you have experienced! What Kit would you go with?
Last edited by Sub zero; 05-22-2008 at 04:51 PM.
05-22-2008, 07:50 PM
#56
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Originally Posted by Sub zero
Sorry!! Let me rephrase! Hey one question "GOOSEGOOSE" Knowing what you know from what you have experienced! What Kit would you go with? I mean do you think you made a wrong choice in a power adder?
05-23-2008, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Sub zero
Man that sucks you are having those problems and that you failed! So what do you think you are doing wrong? Intake temps should be no more than 10% above ambient and there are other Guys that have full boost in all gears including me!!
There is no way were seing anywhere near ambient teperatures on this kit. The average AIT on this kit was 57 celcius once up to operating teperature..Just to give you perspective, the average Greddy or APS TT AIT we see is 42 celcius, the average Turbonetics AIT we see is 47 celcuis..This kit produces AIT's 10 degrees above the most inefficient turbo set up weve seen..
05-23-2008, 05:57 AM
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/\ Goosegoose has the G35 stock bumper were the FMIC is covered. My IAT fell dramatically when I switched to TopSectret Front Bumper. If I do a straight race for 10-15 minutes my IAT will climb about 8C-12C. On average let say doing a few hard pull here and there then my IAT usually just climb about 5C-7C. Even if my car is fully warmed up and been driving for 30+ minutes and decide to just do a pull (4th or 5th gear all the way to redline) my IAT usually just climb around 5C-8C and I do have a modified piping (same as Goosegoose) which is literally a few inches from my TestPipe, Tranny and the exhaust system. I haven't wrapped my exhaust system so that should hurt me more.
Edit:
I'm not sure what have changed on Goosegoose car coz here's your post on my car when I used to have my OEM Bumper with the modified piping and was done on early June last year were as Goosegoose was done early May this year (pretty close enough for comparison).
Here is how close the charge pipe to my CAT and Tranny with the modified pipe. I have meaning to wrap my exhaust but didn't get around it but my IAT is not really hurting me right now.
Edit:
I'm not sure what have changed on Goosegoose car coz here's your post on my car when I used to have my OEM Bumper with the modified piping and was done on early June last year were as Goosegoose was done early May this year (pretty close enough for comparison).
Originally Posted by Julian@MRC
Yup, not bad for stock exaust and cats.You may want to get some heat wrap so we can wrap the intake piping to keep the intake temps down a bit.Right now were seeing 41-47 celcius.About what we see on the TN singles..See you at 7:30.
Last edited by athenG; 05-23-2008 at 07:21 AM.
05-23-2008, 06:57 AM
#60
Originally Posted by Julian@MRC
Allow me to clarify..We did not fail, the turbo kit FAILS..
There is no way were seing anywhere near ambient teperatures on this kit. The average AIT on this kit was 57 celcius once up to operating teperature..Just to give you perspective, the average Greddy or APS TT AIT we see is 42 celcius, the average Turbonetics AIT we see is 47 celcuis..This kit produces AIT's 10 degrees above the most inefficient turbo set up weve seen..
There is no way were seing anywhere near ambient teperatures on this kit. The average AIT on this kit was 57 celcius once up to operating teperature..Just to give you perspective, the average Greddy or APS TT AIT we see is 42 celcius, the average Turbonetics AIT we see is 47 celcuis..This kit produces AIT's 10 degrees above the most inefficient turbo set up weve seen..
So you are telling me it's the Companies fault because you can't figure out a simple problem?!?! OOOKAY!!