So what weight is recommended for Rotella in a built motor?

 

just got back from autozone picked up a case of 6 quarts of mobile 1 0w-40 for $42.46 after tax.I have been running mobile 5w-30.when I drained the pan the 5w-30 was like water after only 2500 miles,it wzs clean but to thin for me.will see what this grade will do in another 2500 miles.

 

Here's my Second Test with M1 0W40 with 3000 miles. Resolute mention that Iron tend to be high with M1 0w40 and my second test seem got a bit higher than before. The only change I can think of is this mileage where taken during the winter. I have extended the mileage from 2500 to 3000miles and also I have driven the car much harder (I don't do Street Drag Racing *Wink*) during the winter season not to mention it had 20 Dyno Pulls when I had my Water/Meth Installed for a minor tune.

I'm not sure if I should be concern with the Iron #'s but I might switch to Rotella just to see if it makes a difference.

I forgot:
I have a Single Turbo on Stock Block with 25K miles on the motor right now.

 

So whats the consensus for a stock motor w/ vortech supercharger in summertime weather?

 

You really have to do your own test coz there are to many variable like driving habit, state of the motor,..etc.

 

any recommendation of what kind to start with? My car has 74k miles on it. I drive it hard sometimes but not too often.

 

This is the reason I started with M1 0w40. 0w40 had some good result so it is a good place to start.

 

For FI cars, as I've said repeatedly in the UOA sticky, there are too many uncontrolled variables that will change how one oils performs versus another in each engine. SC vs TT vs ST vs Meth/nometh vs built vs stock block vs high boost vs low boost vs etc...

Hence why I've never created a list of recommended oils for FI engines. What works well in one guys daily driven TT stock block, will be very different for a built SC application.

The best you can do is to try an oil with good results in the NA used oil analysis collection, and go from there. I recommend a 40 weight for most FI guys, but I wouldn't be surprised to see a heavy 30 weight like GC 0W-30 to do well for a lot of FI engines on here. The reason I recommend a heavier weight for the FI engines is because the heat generated by a FI engine, especially for oil that is used to lube & cool turbo center sections, will thin an oil more than a NA engine, and a 40 weight will inherently have higher film strength under this heat and pressure than a typical 30 weight.


The most criticla metals to watch out for are Lead, Copper, and Chromium. As long as these metal traces are low, then you can be sure your bearings and rings are well protected by the oil. This sample looks good.

The second thing to look for is that there is no trace fuel or coolant in the oil, as this would indicate a mechanical problem developing. Your engine looks good.

If there is no coolant or fuel dilution, and the silicon is low to indicate the filtering is good, then make sure the oil stayed in its grade. That means the oil isn't shearing, and will maintain its film strength in the face of high stress and temperature. This oil is good, and is almost the same viscosity as when new- a very thin 40 weight.

Finally, look at the Iron and Al metal wear. There is a lot of iron and aluminum parts in an engine that can wear a few ppm without an issue to anything, and never be noticed (unlike your bearings and piston rings, where the same amount of ppm represents a MUCH higher percentage of overall material). The M1 oils are always high in Iron. I don't know for sure why, just some theories. This sample is high in Fe, though. Everyhting else that is more critical looks good, though, so don't worry about it.

However, it means there might be a better option for you. I would suggest the same thing I suggested to Gurgen, QuadCam, and a whole bunch of others that I've forgotten... try a Turbo Diesel oil for your turbo charged engine. I think if the high Fe bothers you and you want to see if you can get the same low lead and chromium wear with another oil that reduces the iron wear as well, then give the Rotella T-Syn 5W-40 a shot, or the M1 Turbo Diesel 5W-40 a try. Both are certified for use in gasoline engines, and both have a history of good results in FI engines. Get a UOA done for similar mileage and see how they look.

Will

 

actually..this is what the service manual says:

GASOLINE ENGINE OIL
SAE 5W-30 viscosity oil is preferred for all temperatures. SAE
10W-30 and 10W-40 viscosity oil may be used if the ambient
temperature is above -18°C(0°F)

 

Thanks Resolute, I will also like to thank Quadcam for testing the Rotella since this kind of contribution does help the community. I'm leaning toward the Rotella T-Syn 5W-40 since Quadcam had some good result and has been proven but I want to try the M1 Turbo Diesel 5W-40 so just we have another option. I guess which ever is the easiest one to find is the one I'm going with

 

Thanks AThenG. Ihave been tempted to try the M1 TD 5W40, but I am having such good luck with the Rotella that I don't want to change.

 

Im Outside USA..here in my Country Dominican Republic.(island next to Puerto Rico) things are imported from outside so yes the prices are higher

We dont carry Walmart,Napa,autozone..Nothing on those sides..we only have regular parts center that carry this oil..In Fact in the Country there are 2 racing shops that carry oils like Red Line etc..The lowest that i have seen the M1 is for 10 Bux the Qt and that is on the Distribuitor of M1 on the country..I have seen the M1 for 20 bux a Qt!!

Motul 300v Sells for almost 100 bux the big can ..
So you can have and idea on how are the prices here

The Only thing that i found Cheap is the Race fuel that i Use Weekly
Sunoco 104 RON GT for 80 bux 5 gallons!

 

Thanks for the info. Nice response...