The one question I can answer is about your start up it's called a utec. 600cc or bigger you get this problem with the utec because it doesn't rescale your injectors properly. It rescales after your car is started. I'm surprised you said sam didn't know this. One would think he would try to sell you a reflash to fix this if it can.

 

I have start up problems too. If the car has been sitting for a couple of hours then it starts right up, but if I've been driving around town and park the car for 15-20 min, then I have to pump the throttle while cranking up the car.

 

I have the Detschworks 600's and a Utec, I had a stalling issue on hot start ups for the first couple of weeks and I would have to blip the throttle to make sure the engine didn't stall. Since then it hasn't stalled in weeks and starts just like stock and no more blipping the throttle, it could take some time for your utec to learn. I think these guys might be on to something with a bad o-ring or one not properly seating into your fuel rail.

 

Don't think Utec is active until boost is sensed by the MAP sensor.

 

so the o ring not seated properly would cause a fuel odor correct? Checked all day running the car around town and there is absolutely no odor of fuel emmiting from the car.

 

Yeah, if you had a bad/not seated properly injector oring, you would likely smell strong fuel odor from the gas leaking up past it. If you suspect it though, pull the plenum and check them.

 

if you don't have an odor, I wouldn't pull them to check because in the process of looking at them, then reinserting them, you can tear them.

 

The utec is active when not in boost. As soon as the car is started it is active, that is how your larger injectors are rescaled in the 0% column. It is not active when starting the car. That is why any Z with injectors larger than 550cc has a problem on start up, the stock ecu can't handle the larger ones. Search around and you will see. This is the dirty trick of a utec. They promised to have it rescale the injectors, but turbo xs screwed us all. If they did this one feature there wouldn't be all the complaints about and the transitioning from part throttle to wot.

 

Forgive my noobishness on this stuff but wouldnt an injector with a bad oring cause the car to slowly return to idle when you rev it. A friend of mine had a leaky injector with his sc kit on a different car. The way he diagnosed it was by spraying brake clean or throttle body cleaner ( i forget which it was) around the injectors and listening to see if the car started to rev up on its own. Someone please correct me if this is harmful as I dont want to add to C3rollings troubles.

 

you can spray around the plenum and if it rev then you have a leak but to get to the injectors on our car you have to remove the plenum... I don't think you can start the car without the plenum..

 

sooo...spray brake cleaner around the plenum?

 

That will only tell you if you have a plenum leak..

 

I dont know why I didnt think if that slight little problem of the plenum being in the way

 

You can turn the key to "ON" without cranking with the plenum off. The fuel pump will pressurize for a few secs then turn off. If there is a bad seal, trust me, it will be evident. Wear safety goggles!

 

I think we are barking up the wrong tree here honestly, thinking its fuel leak at the injector. I had a tiny (I'm talking a damp fitting and a few drops) fuel leak where one of my fuel line fittings attached to the CJM rails when I first put my car back together, and the smell was extremely noticible. It was the first thing I noticed when I pressurized the fuel system. If he isn't getting a strong smell of gasoline with the hood popped, I would move on.

That being said, it does not hurt to check, especially since the cause of your knocking is so elusive.

 

any updates?

 

ok....injectors have been checked and they are not leaking. Its getting really hot now (95+ temps) and Ive noticed my wideband shows my car running alot richer lately, boost would show about 10.2-11.2 AFR . Im PRETTY sure its not a lack of fuel issue....

 

Are you still knocking at sub 10's on A/F?

 

not too sure. The knock is so elusive that I cant really tell. Seems WOT on first gear will trigger the knocking near redline. Once the meth/water starts to really work it would stop. If I WOT from a 40 mph cruise it wouldnt knock, possibly the pre mix had enough time to really cool things down and work..

 

should i try mixing about 24 ounces of pure meth to the 1 gallon pre mix?