I have had good luck using a small 35 shot right from the launch. Helped me to get consistant 1.7 60' times with my 5AT, and that was with alot less power than your making.

 

Cool. I think I'm going to try at after the first of the year.

 

Here is my latest dyno chart on 93 octane with the Cosworth Plenum in place. Boost was at 17.5 psi. Uncorrected hp was 609, weather corrected hp was 603 (Mustang Dyno).

At first view it doesn't look like I gained much from my earlier dyno chart at 13.5 psi which was 550 something uncorrected, but it weather corrected up to 584. I think this second one is probably more realistic. It was pretty hot on the day we generated the earlier dyno chart, thus there was less air/fuel going into the combustion chamber and we were able to run more timing. Since it was cooler on the latest dyno run, we had more air/fuel going into motor, and pulled the timing back to give us a more safety margin. The timing is relatively conservative in this latest dyno chart.

 

Great numbers and a great thread. Hope we can meet up sometime after I'm done with my build as well.

 

Thank you. Do you have a thread on your build?

 

what do u consider conservative timing? 12 degrees 15 degrees? and at what rpm do you use to determing if its conservative?

seen that phrase thrown around alot

 

My thread: https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...-progress.html

 

It's all relative. 15 degrees at one rpm/boost setting may be conserviative while 15 degrees at another rpm/boost setting may be aggressive.

On my tune, if I remember correcly, we are around 11-12 degrees at 4k rpm/17.5 psi. I think Roger backed it off about 3 degrees from the onset of pinging, or something like that. I think he also intentionally left it a little rich from about 3800 - 4600 rpm at the higher boost levels. You can see the dip in the torque around 4200 rpm.

We haven't tuned with the meth system yet, but once we do, we should be able to advance the timing quite a bit and run more boost.

 

Here are some quick pictures (not the best quality) I took of my car. I have a new rear bumper waiting to go on, as well as some engine bay dressing up in the works. Hopefully those will be done sometime in Jan. I'll post new pics when it's done.

I put the rear wing on for the track, but I'm thinking of making it removable. It looks a little "ricer" for me. Any thoughts or opinions are welcome.

 

Nice numbers...yea not a fan of the wing for street use but bet it helps on track a ton.

Was this latest dyno on pure pump or with meth/water injection too?

Tom

 

Pure pump gas only, no Meth. We have the meth system hooked up, but we ran out of time. We dyno'd on Friday and I was trying to get it ready for Homestead on Saturday. We still have alot of fine adjusting to do in the idle/drivability area to get it back to where it was before we made the latest round of changes, which includied adding twin fuel pumps, the Cosworth plenum. and some other things.

As I noted in another thread, the tune went great, but I had a string of bad luck/stupidity on my part after that.

First, I was modifying my HKS Navigator Harness so that I can unplug it from its normal location where my Ashtray used to be and put it up in the lower left portion of the windshield so that I could use it to monitor oil pressure and fuel pressure while on the track. One of my connectors was not fully crimped, so I went back and re-crimped it, but forgot to unplug it from the F-CON. The RJ-11 crimper has a single metal bar that crimps all of the pins simultaneously, which shorted the power/ground wire, which led to my F-CON V Pro catching on fire. (The internal ribbon cable is insulated with paper ).

Japtrix and Garret at HKS were really cool. They gave me a new F-CON V Pro at a deep discount (I think at cost). Nonetheless, the damage does not look too bad and I may be able to fix the old one and use it as a backup, or for my next project.

After I fried my F-CON, John was really cool and let me borrow his so that I could make Homestead the next day. We re-set his jumpers per the manual to configure his F-CON to work in my VQ-35DE, and uploaded my F-CON files. WOT shifting worked great with my F-CON, but when I tried it with John's, the rev limiter never kicked in and I pegged my tach. Now my car is back at Japtrix with a ticking sound. Hopefully it is only a timing chain or in the valve train, but we don't know yet. Roger is going to try to get the motor out this week to look at it. I guess I was not meant to make it to Homestead.

For now on, I am going to fully test everything with baby steps before just going out there and hammering it hard.

On a side note, I was even getting my Toyo 305s to break loose in third hear, so there is plenty of power. I'm going to try to push out my fenders a bit to fit 315s or 325s when its time for new tires.

 

Wow, definate string of bad luck. Hope it all works out for you.
This is the only time its nice to have a winter season up here. Time to work out issues and not have any way to push the car lol (5inches of snow tonight lol)

Best of luck
Tom

 

Thanks. Hopefully it is something minor. Since we are dropping the motor out, it gives me a good opportunity to do alot of things I regretted not doing earlier on in the build.

For example, I'm going have PolyDyn in Houston ceramic coat my combutsion chambers, valves, exhaust ports and intake ports. My pistons are already ceramic coated, and the ceramic coating in the combusion chambers and of the valves should help stave off the onset of predetonation and allow us to advance the timing a bit.

I'm also going to have Fuzion here in WPB ceramic coat my exhaust manifolds, turbo housings, downpipes and exhaust system. That, with the ceramic coating in the exhaust ports, should help spool up of the turbos quicker and reduce my engine bay temps quite a bit. This is important because I need to keep temperatures under control when I add the underbody pan, which I'll be putting on to improve the airflow under the car and try to get some additional downforce.

Fuzon is also going to ceramic coat the inside of my tubes going from the IC to the throttle body, as well as the inside of the Cosworth and my intake runners. This should help keep air intake temps down when the engine heats up. They are also going to polish the outside of the tubes to match the cosworth polish.

Finally Fuzion is goiong to powder coat my timing chain cover and valve covers, which will help with the engine dressup. Also, while the motor is out, I am going to give the entire engine bay a good cleaning and polishing.

With the various ceramic coatings, I expect we'll pick up a bit of torque/hp, and get a faster spool up of the turbos. When we tune with the meth, we are hoping the additional timing and boost we will be running will get us north of 750 HP. I think we should be able to make it.

 

Wow, I hope its nothing serious. Good Luck. looks like you will have a fun winter project ahead of you...that's a lot of work. Coating the pipes is sure a lot of work. I think the results will be absolutely not worth what you think, but if I had to guess, i would say you are probably getting it done for next to nothing or maybe as a sponsorship.
I Jet-Hot coated the manifolds but that was it. Good Luck. Keep us posted. And for goodness sake. Take pics. J/K.

 

ticking, oh no the ticking. mine ended up being a rod, not bent, just chipped. good luck.

 

Be careful with coating the inside of the pipes, intake side in particular. I did a lot of research and some people found that small pieces of the coating had flaked off over time with heat and stress and it was being pushed through the motor and the turbos. Remember that if you run meth the plenum will remain cool anyway and the charge pipe should not get crazy hot.

Also, check with the dealer that you bought your turbo kit from, if you coat the turbo housings you may void the warranty on your turbos. This is the case with APS products.

Copycat -

Good luck with your issues and if you are over the age of 17 the wing has got to go!!

 

At this point I'm not worried about any warranties... I've heard issues of ceraminc flaking off, but it is my understanding that it was due to impropper processes. That's why I'm sending my heads and valves to PolyDyn. With respect to everything else, Fuzion has a great reputation and they have been recommended to me by an number of different sources. I have high confidence in both of these companies. Nonetheless, if something goes wrong and I blow the motor, it gives me a good excuse to go to the next level. (TT LS3 in a G35??? I've been itching to do this since day 1... 100 lbs extra weight in the front, but I think I can come up with something to balance out the f/r weitht ratio).

 

Here is my meth system wiring diagram:



At this point I have only tested it with water flow outside of the motor. I'm looking forward tuning it on the dyno after we identify and address the ticking sound.

Feel free to use this diagram, but I take no responsibility for any results, good or bad. The tuner must know what systems are being affected and must know the apprpriate changes that must be made; if not, get another tuner.

FYI, I provided a previous version of this drawing to Japtrix, and Nate connected everthing flawlessly (I double and triple checked!!).

 

That's a very nice car you have there! Well executed.

-George
GT Motorsports

 

Thank you!

I love it!!!