Greddy TT Installation
08-03-2008, 10:20 AM
#41
The one thing that jumped out at me was the LACK of heat wrap. This could get you in trouble. The harness that runs near the Passenger wastegate really concerns me. It leads to your transmission and starter. Those wires are susceptible to getting burned by the wastegate. I would go back and heat wrap those wires and if possible move them further away from the wastegate.
Otherwise install looks great.
Otherwise install looks great.
08-03-2008, 10:44 AM
#43
Also, I didn't see a picture, but just a note. The wires that come down the passenger side to power the Power steering pump, and oil pressure sending unit should be as far away from the manifold as possible or they will melt too.
That is about the only good advice the Greddy Instructions did mention. They stated about 3 times that heat wrapping the harness is essential to safe operation and I have to say it is very TRUE.
Double check any wires that are even close to the manifolds...they don't have to touch to get subject to some serious heat.
That is about the only good advice the Greddy Instructions did mention. They stated about 3 times that heat wrapping the harness is essential to safe operation and I have to say it is very TRUE.
Double check any wires that are even close to the manifolds...they don't have to touch to get subject to some serious heat.
08-03-2008, 12:21 PM
#45
you really should move that BOV so that it is before the MAF, not after it!
the greddy BOV will stay slightly open with all the vacuum that your engine pulls at idle. this means that unmetered air is going to get sucked in through the BOV......it definatley could lead to some drivabbility issues.
the greddy BOV will stay slightly open with all the vacuum that your engine pulls at idle. this means that unmetered air is going to get sucked in through the BOV......it definatley could lead to some drivabbility issues.
08-03-2008, 06:13 PM
#46
Unfortunately thats the way I received the kit, I wonder why a shop would do that? I believe the previous owner ran a UTEC as well.
Question, does anyone have a "legend" as to what the color codes on the harness are?
Does "L" = Lime, B=Black, B/R=Black Red?
Im trying to figure out this Zeitronix wiring to the stock harness.
Question, does anyone have a "legend" as to what the color codes on the harness are?
Does "L" = Lime, B=Black, B/R=Black Red?
Im trying to figure out this Zeitronix wiring to the stock harness.
08-04-2008, 04:04 AM
#47
Unless you are trying to access things like the speed sensor or RPM features, you only really need power and ground to get it to turn on...Otherwise, its a plug & play for the individual sensors (EGT, Wideband, Boost).
Don't know about the legend...I'll have to check my service manual. I'll try to let you know when I get a chance.
And definitely try to fix the BOV if you can.
I put mine on the pipe following short 90 degree bend immediately after the Inter-Cooler. (right behind the driver fender well.)
And this is what I did to fix the problem for the turbo outlet: - which failed!!!
This coupler failure will result in a major boost leak and you'll spend a long time trying to find it. Especially since I had it heat wrapped.
So this is how I fixed it for good:
Don't know about the legend...I'll have to check my service manual. I'll try to let you know when I get a chance.
And definitely try to fix the BOV if you can.
I put mine on the pipe following short 90 degree bend immediately after the Inter-Cooler. (right behind the driver fender well.)
And this is what I did to fix the problem for the turbo outlet: - which failed!!!
This coupler failure will result in a major boost leak and you'll spend a long time trying to find it. Especially since I had it heat wrapped.
So this is how I fixed it for good:
Last edited by rrmedicx; 08-04-2008 at 04:11 AM.
08-04-2008, 05:14 AM
#48
Ya I saw that during your install, I also saw that blow out thread. Man that sucks...would a good aluminum welder be able to move the BOV for me?
Ok so maybe Im over complicating the Zeitronix. However, should I have bout the Zeitronix MAP Sensor, along with the UTEC MAP Sensor? I only have the UTEC, how would I display boost on the Zeitronix display in this scenario?
Ok so maybe Im over complicating the Zeitronix. However, should I have bout the Zeitronix MAP Sensor, along with the UTEC MAP Sensor? I only have the UTEC, how would I display boost on the Zeitronix display in this scenario?
Last edited by RandomHer0; 08-04-2008 at 05:42 AM.
08-04-2008, 06:16 AM
#49
Originally Posted by RandomHer0
Ya I saw that during your install, I also saw that blow out thread. Man that sucks...would a good aluminum welder be able to move the BOV for me?
I should hope a good welder could first plug that whole left from the original BOV mounting...Then weld the appropriate bung to install the BOV where you want.
Ok so maybe Im over complicating the Zeitronix. However, should I have bout the Zeitronix MAP Sensor, along with the UTEC MAP Sensor? I only have the UTEC, how would I display boost on the Zeitronix display in this scenario?
I should hope a good welder could first plug that whole left from the original BOV mounting...Then weld the appropriate bung to install the BOV where you want.
Ok so maybe Im over complicating the Zeitronix. However, should I have bout the Zeitronix MAP Sensor, along with the UTEC MAP Sensor? I only have the UTEC, how would I display boost on the Zeitronix display in this scenario?
08-04-2008, 11:27 AM
#53
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Rather than external did you mean exhaust manifold?
Looks kinda cool.
08-04-2008, 03:59 PM
#57
Day 5/6.
We went in for a few hours both Sunday and Today (Monday). Finished all the vacuum plumbing (BIG thanks to Eric and Pascal for coming up with some "T"s), Fuel Pump (that was a ***** too), Wired up the piggyback UTEC, Wired up the Zeitrnoix Display (I'm missing my MAP sensor for my display so I can't see boost, its already been ordered).
We filled up the fluids, bled the clutch line, and gave the key a turn...
The good news. Car started first try, sounds MEAN. Filled up the power steering fluid, the squeal from that went away.
The bad news; checked for fluid leaks...uh oh, Oil.
Shutdown the car, found Oil coming from here;
Getty removed the fittings, re-taped the thread with teflon, a new crush washer, and some silicone sealant.
Put the fitting back in.
Start the car, still Oil leaking.
Upon closer inspection; It wasnt the fitting, or seal, or thread. There is a 1/2" HAIRLINE crack in the upper oil pan.
So, being a holiday Monday we tried the bat signal but failed, tried Kyle, tried the "NeanderBillies" as Getty calls them across the lot to try and find someone who welds aluminum. No dice.
Next Best thing? JB Weld that **** sucker.
They car is there for another night while it cures, we'll know in the morning when Getty fires it up to see if it holds, either way I'll need it repaired.
Other than that, I guess with all the MAJOR changes that were done to the car, it could be worse.
Few pics;
Getty doin up the Boost Controller.
Other than that, car is back together.
We went in for a few hours both Sunday and Today (Monday). Finished all the vacuum plumbing (BIG thanks to Eric and Pascal for coming up with some "T"s), Fuel Pump (that was a ***** too), Wired up the piggyback UTEC, Wired up the Zeitrnoix Display (I'm missing my MAP sensor for my display so I can't see boost, its already been ordered).
We filled up the fluids, bled the clutch line, and gave the key a turn...
The good news. Car started first try, sounds MEAN. Filled up the power steering fluid, the squeal from that went away.
The bad news; checked for fluid leaks...uh oh, Oil.
Shutdown the car, found Oil coming from here;
Getty removed the fittings, re-taped the thread with teflon, a new crush washer, and some silicone sealant.
Put the fitting back in.
Start the car, still Oil leaking.
Upon closer inspection; It wasnt the fitting, or seal, or thread. There is a 1/2" HAIRLINE crack in the upper oil pan.
So, being a holiday Monday we tried the bat signal but failed, tried Kyle, tried the "NeanderBillies" as Getty calls them across the lot to try and find someone who welds aluminum. No dice.
Next Best thing? JB Weld that **** sucker.
They car is there for another night while it cures, we'll know in the morning when Getty fires it up to see if it holds, either way I'll need it repaired.
Other than that, I guess with all the MAJOR changes that were done to the car, it could be worse.
Few pics;
Getty doin up the Boost Controller.
Other than that, car is back together.
08-04-2008, 04:01 PM
#58
Yes you will need the Zeitronix map sensor to provide for a boost/vacuum reading as well as having the utec sensor. They are 2 different devices and utilize there own source.
Originally Posted by RandomHer0
Ya I saw that during your install, I also saw that blow out thread. Man that sucks...would a good aluminum welder be able to move the BOV for me?
Ok so maybe Im over complicating the Zeitronix. However, should I have bout the Zeitronix MAP Sensor, along with the UTEC MAP Sensor? I only have the UTEC, how would I display boost on the Zeitronix display in this scenario?
Ok so maybe Im over complicating the Zeitronix. However, should I have bout the Zeitronix MAP Sensor, along with the UTEC MAP Sensor? I only have the UTEC, how would I display boost on the Zeitronix display in this scenario?
