Greddy TT Installation
08-04-2008, 06:05 PM
#61
Originally Posted by Jay'Z
How did the oil pan crack?? Any idea??
Thats all we can come up with...just never noticed until the pressure of a cold start made it drip.
08-05-2008, 04:13 AM
#62
THAT IS A BAD SPOT TO LEAK. I hope you can find someone really really good to attack that because the only way I see that getting fixed is by removing the upper oil pan. Should be a good 4 hours to clear things out of the way and support the motor so you can drop the oil pan. I did this a couple of times, its no fun. And yes, I did it with the motor still in the car. NO FUN AT ALL...Good luck with that. I wouldn't play too much with a FI car that has an oil leak because I'm sure you know, not enough oil and Poof. Game over. Good Luck with that fix.
08-05-2008, 09:00 AM
#64
My upper oil pan split as well. I replaced the upper pan. I made a thread about it. Its a ton of work and getting the rear seal not to leak is a real hassle. Although the 2nd time I did it, it only took 20 mins to have it down. maybe 7 hrs the 1st time, in the car
I would never trust JB weld with that kinda crack when using a tapered pipe thread insert. Esp after pulling the upper pan and looking at it.
Good luck. You are in for fun. Might be easier to just pull the motor. That way you can make sure that the rear seal wont leak. You are working blind on that seal when the motor is in the car.
I would never trust JB weld with that kinda crack when using a tapered pipe thread insert. Esp after pulling the upper pan and looking at it.
Good luck. You are in for fun. Might be easier to just pull the motor. That way you can make sure that the rear seal wont leak. You are working blind on that seal when the motor is in the car.
08-05-2008, 10:36 AM
#65
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You could pull the motor and replace the oil pan and then you could weld those turbo up pipes. Might seem like a huge hassle now but you could be assured of not having to deal with it later and that would be more of a pain. Also looks like the oil pressure sensor is that much further away and the added weight of the oil T's and lines is going to put even more stress on that crack when you hit bumps.
08-05-2008, 06:28 PM
#66
Update;
It's alive.
The JB weld seems to be holding until I can figure out a permanent fix. That **** is like concrete though.
Took the car for a spin, ran a bit rough, took some fuel out of my 0% throttle column, helped, but the car was stalling when I would clutch in.
Another TT G35 owner in Ottawa gave me an idle bump with Cipher, said he had the same issue. Issue is resolved, I have to run the A/C until I can get another bump from a Osiris I guess.
I went for a few half throttle runs to check my tune, it's a bit rich, but it's safe. The car...the car pulls like a freight train, I've never driven a car like this. The clutch...thats gunna take some getting used to. It's heavy duty for sure, and lots of chatter, annoying really, we'll see how long that lasts.
Other than that, shes good, shes home in my car hold.
Anyone else have some information who run this setup what my EGT should be? Seems to be a bit high, even at cruising speeds, 1120ish, and peak 1320F under half throttle, put timing back to 15, same thing. Any ideas on what I can do or is that normal?
My TPS and RPM aren't reading correctly so I'll need to re-check my wiring, Im waiting for my MAP sensor anyways.
So far so good. Hopefully it's nice this Friday, I need to break in this clutch.
It's alive.
The JB weld seems to be holding until I can figure out a permanent fix. That **** is like concrete though.
Took the car for a spin, ran a bit rough, took some fuel out of my 0% throttle column, helped, but the car was stalling when I would clutch in.
Another TT G35 owner in Ottawa gave me an idle bump with Cipher, said he had the same issue. Issue is resolved, I have to run the A/C until I can get another bump from a Osiris I guess.
I went for a few half throttle runs to check my tune, it's a bit rich, but it's safe. The car...the car pulls like a freight train, I've never driven a car like this. The clutch...thats gunna take some getting used to. It's heavy duty for sure, and lots of chatter, annoying really, we'll see how long that lasts.
Other than that, shes good, shes home in my car hold.
Anyone else have some information who run this setup what my EGT should be? Seems to be a bit high, even at cruising speeds, 1120ish, and peak 1320F under half throttle, put timing back to 15, same thing. Any ideas on what I can do or is that normal?
My TPS and RPM aren't reading correctly so I'll need to re-check my wiring, Im waiting for my MAP sensor anyways.
So far so good. Hopefully it's nice this Friday, I need to break in this clutch.
08-06-2008, 10:56 AM
#69
Extremely impressive! Getty sure is a one stop kinda guy. Is there anything he can't do?! Lol~ I may have missed it, but where are you having the tune done?
Damn, the winters up there must be very harsh with all the rust and corrosion all over your otherwise beautiful car!
Damn, the winters up there must be very harsh with all the rust and corrosion all over your otherwise beautiful car!
08-06-2008, 12:12 PM
#70
Sorry to say this but I don't think the JB Weld will hold. 
It will fail, I predict within 8 weeks time. Probably sooner than that. Keep an eye on it. I've tried it before on a completely clean surface but the heat and vibration will eventually cause it to crack. I have a theory that you can use less hardner and it may hold better under vibrating conditions (rather than the 50/50 mix recommended).
This was on an oil pan crack for an older car. Luckily it was easily replaced. I thought it was rock solid (totally went overboard I thought with the repair: cleaned surface, applied one layer, sat overnight, another layer, sat overnight, replaced on car) and was so shocked to see the way it cracked in two after running fine for about a month. (car was a 190E)
It's just one anecdotal report, but I then went online and found many more reports of oil pan cracks coming apart after a repair. A select few have reported long term success and I wonder if by chance they just used less hardner when mixing it up...
It will fail, I predict within 8 weeks time. Probably sooner than that. Keep an eye on it. I've tried it before on a completely clean surface but the heat and vibration will eventually cause it to crack. I have a theory that you can use less hardner and it may hold better under vibrating conditions (rather than the 50/50 mix recommended).This was on an oil pan crack for an older car. Luckily it was easily replaced. I thought it was rock solid (totally went overboard I thought with the repair: cleaned surface, applied one layer, sat overnight, another layer, sat overnight, replaced on car) and was so shocked to see the way it cracked in two after running fine for about a month. (car was a 190E)
It's just one anecdotal report, but I then went online and found many more reports of oil pan cracks coming apart after a repair. A select few have reported long term success and I wonder if by chance they just used less hardner when mixing it up...
Last edited by rcdash; 08-06-2008 at 12:28 PM.
08-06-2008, 01:16 PM
#71
Originally Posted by gothchick
Extremely impressive! Getty sure is a one stop kinda guy. Is there anything he can't do?! Lol~ I may have missed it, but where are you having the tune done?
Damn, the winters up there must be very harsh with all the rust and corrosion all over your otherwise beautiful car!
Damn, the winters up there must be very harsh with all the rust and corrosion all over your otherwise beautiful car!
All the corrosion is from the previous owner, its an 03, Ive had the car for I think 3 years now and it never sees winter. Getty really is the man, and a close friend of mine, he's a great tech. He had no experience with Nissans and for us to knock it out in a few days I think surprised some people.
There are no places to have the car tuned around here, but I have another friend with an APS TT G35 who has tuned his own UTEC for some time now, he's helping me out. Otherwise I might go down to Toronto the next time Mike from AAM is there. I hear good things about him...
08-06-2008, 01:19 PM
#72
Originally Posted by rcdash
Sorry to say this but I don't think the JB Weld will hold. It will fail, I predict within 8 weeks time. Probably sooner than that. Keep an eye on it. I've tried it before on a completely clean surface but the heat and vibration will eventually cause it to crack. I have a theory that you can use less hardner and it may hold better under vibrating conditions (rather than the 50/50 mix recommended).
This was on an oil pan crack for an older car. Luckily it was easily replaced. I thought it was rock solid (totally went overboard I thought with the repair: cleaned surface, applied one layer, sat overnight, another layer, sat overnight, replaced on car) and was so shocked to see the way it cracked in two after running fine for about a month. (car was a 190E)
It's just one anecdotal report, but I then went online and found many more reports of oil pan cracks coming apart after a repair. A select few have reported long term success and I wonder if by chance they just used less hardner when mixing it up...
It will fail, I predict within 8 weeks time. Probably sooner than that. Keep an eye on it. I've tried it before on a completely clean surface but the heat and vibration will eventually cause it to crack. I have a theory that you can use less hardner and it may hold better under vibrating conditions (rather than the 50/50 mix recommended).This was on an oil pan crack for an older car. Luckily it was easily replaced. I thought it was rock solid (totally went overboard I thought with the repair: cleaned surface, applied one layer, sat overnight, another layer, sat overnight, replaced on car) and was so shocked to see the way it cracked in two after running fine for about a month. (car was a 190E)
It's just one anecdotal report, but I then went online and found many more reports of oil pan cracks coming apart after a repair. A select few have reported long term success and I wonder if by chance they just used less hardner when mixing it up...
I'm not trusting this stuff, I've heard good things about it (used on cars for 2 years and still solid, used for exhaust leaks...)
I'll keep everyone up to date, you have all been helpfull, especially with our limited resources up here.
08-07-2008, 04:34 AM
#73
Can anyone tell me what Terminal No./Color Wire you tapped RPM Signal, and TPS Signal into your harness?
Mine aren't reading.
RPM is said to be tapped at Terminal 62, Color Y/R, Ignition Signal 1.
TPS is said to be tapped at Terminal 50, Color W, Throttle position sensor 1.
However from here;
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...5_G35_350z.php
Terminal 50 is GREEN??
Mine aren't reading.
RPM is said to be tapped at Terminal 62, Color Y/R, Ignition Signal 1.
TPS is said to be tapped at Terminal 50, Color W, Throttle position sensor 1.
However from here;
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/r...5_G35_350z.php
Terminal 50 is GREEN??
Last edited by RandomHer0; 08-07-2008 at 06:04 AM.
05-27-2009, 05:57 AM
#76
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I have the same issue right now with the oil pan. I cracked mine because i tightened the fitting too much. I got a leak from the same exact spot. I also JB welded mine alst night and im gonna start it up today. I might slap on a little more jb weld on top of the jb weld blob from last night just incase. Matter of fact, im gonna keep slapping on jb weld everyday till you cant even tell whats under it.
05-28-2009, 06:33 PM
#78
I have the same issue right now with the oil pan. I cracked mine because i tightened the fitting too much. I got a leak from the same exact spot. I also JB welded mine alst night and im gonna start it up today. I might slap on a little more jb weld on top of the jb weld blob from last night just incase. Matter of fact, im gonna keep slapping on jb weld everyday till you cant even tell whats under it.
That's some tough stuff man. Hopefully it does both of you some good until you can get a replacement oil pan
