id tried BB and the shitty shop friend the ecu trying to tap the 101 wire and put a constant 12v into the ecu trying to power the light on the switch, i gave up on it but good luck have fun.

 

Where is the 101 wire? And UMW, its not too hard you just have to get a feel for it. Just make sure theres noone behind you when you do it because youll be applying brake with your clutch foot and you might put your face into the steering wheel haha.

 

Sounds like you have tried this before. 101 is on the stock ecu connector (or you can use the Haltech patch harness). If you need the diagram check the FSM, or I can post one up.

 

Haha, yeah I got it down on my Supra after a few front tire chirps. Ive been teaching my girlfriend how to BB her 303whp jetta and shes getting the hang of it. Its such a helpful thing when roll racing. And yes post it up please.

 

 

So basically just find the 101 pin/wire, cut it and run it to a switch to allow for end-user control and BINGO!

 

Correct.

 

is this in the haltech harness or the stock ecu?

 

Both, as the Haltech patch harness is a female mirror copy of the stock engine harness so it plugs in. Since Haltech does not use pin 101, it is just patched straight through. So, if you have a Haltech simply cut that wire on the patch harness and place a switch in there which connects / disconnects the two sides of the wire. If you do not have a Haltech, you can open your stock harness and cut the wire there. Either way you do it, you will want to extend both sides of the wires to wherever is convenient for you to mount the switch.

 

im sorry about all the questions but do you have any idea if the 2007 ecu has the same pins?

 

 

No, it is pin 122 on an 07 Z. Also, an 07 Z has pin 126 which is the cruise control brake signal, which needs 12v if brake is released (opposite of brake switch 122). I am not sure if the ecu cross checks those.

 

be careful when u do it on the haltech harness because all of the wires for mine were the same color. so make sure you get the right pin

 

I will be installing mine this week sometime.

 

There have been two people that reported the "throttle delay" bug that requires you to hold the throttle down for 3-4 seconds before the car actually accelerates. A handful of other people haven't reported any problems.

I'm currently working with Quadcam to see if we can figure out a way to eliminate the bug. It seems different cars respond differently to modifying the brake signal - I haven't been able to pinpoint a cause yet.

The module wasn't sending a signal during partial throttle - it was a basic timer circuit that used a solid state output. I think we are going to try using a relay output and see if that changes anything.

 

I removed my brake boost module yesterday, and so far so good.

No delay in throttle, no weird cold start issues with the throttle input.

After picking up my car Friday, on Saturday morning I start it, warm it up, and couldnt move down the street. Same issue as before when I picked it up from Forged, I thought it was the Haltech wigging out but obviously I was wrong. Pulled the module out and I didnt experience the usual delays when cruising and quickly applying gas.

On a lighter note, 681ft/lbs @ 4000rpm's helps with not needing to brake boost

 

So I take it you're happy you kept the Z Can't wait to hear some times/et

 

I f I have no use for the function, can I just cut the wire and terminate? Or is there a reason to put it on a switch and have it on sometimes? I find it annoying more than anything, cutting power every time I touch the brake pedal!

 

It will throw a code after X amount of miles and will cause the cruise control system to not work.

 

Those 16g's (or are you running 20g's?) are so stupid responsive for being journal-bearing turbos.

Hope your car doesn't break again.