Brake Boosting FTW!!11
#21
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id tried BB and the shitty shop friend the ecu trying to tap the 101 wire and put a constant 12v into the ecu trying to power the light on the switch, i gave up on it but good luck have fun.
#23
Vendor - Former Vendor
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Originally Posted by SnyperZ
Where is the 101 wire? And UMW, its not too hard you just have to get a feel for it. Just make sure theres noone behind you when you do it because youll be applying brake with your clutch foot and you might put your face into the steering wheel haha.
#24
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
Sounds like you have tried this before. 101 is on the stock ecu connector (or you can use the Haltech patch harness). If you need the diagram check the FSM, or I can post one up.
#29
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Originally Posted by mikez97
is this in the haltech harness or the stock ecu?
#32
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Originally Posted by mikez97
im sorry about all the questions but do you have any idea if the 2007 ecu has the same pins?
#35
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Interesting. Perhaps it was sending the "keep alive" pulses during part throttle. A simple timer switch that disconnects pin 101 for a fixed period of time (30 secs?) seems like the best bet. I haven't seen any small switches that operate in this fashion - perhaps a timer circuit required - thoughts Kevin?
I'm currently working with Quadcam to see if we can figure out a way to eliminate the bug. It seems different cars respond differently to modifying the brake signal - I haven't been able to pinpoint a cause yet.
The module wasn't sending a signal during partial throttle - it was a basic timer circuit that used a solid state output. I think we are going to try using a relay output and see if that changes anything.
#36
Cranky FI Owner
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I removed my brake boost module yesterday, and so far so good.
No delay in throttle, no weird cold start issues with the throttle input.
After picking up my car Friday, on Saturday morning I start it, warm it up, and couldnt move down the street. Same issue as before when I picked it up from Forged, I thought it was the Haltech wigging out but obviously I was wrong. Pulled the module out and I didnt experience the usual delays when cruising and quickly applying gas.
On a lighter note, 681ft/lbs @ 4000rpm's helps with not needing to brake boost
No delay in throttle, no weird cold start issues with the throttle input.
After picking up my car Friday, on Saturday morning I start it, warm it up, and couldnt move down the street. Same issue as before when I picked it up from Forged, I thought it was the Haltech wigging out but obviously I was wrong. Pulled the module out and I didnt experience the usual delays when cruising and quickly applying gas.
On a lighter note, 681ft/lbs @ 4000rpm's helps with not needing to brake boost
#38
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I f I have no use for the function, can I just cut the wire and terminate? Or is there a reason to put it on a switch and have it on sometimes? I find it annoying more than anything, cutting power every time I touch the brake pedal!
#40
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I removed my brake boost module yesterday, and so far so good.
No delay in throttle, no weird cold start issues with the throttle input.
After picking up my car Friday, on Saturday morning I start it, warm it up, and couldnt move down the street. Same issue as before when I picked it up from Forged, I thought it was the Haltech wigging out but obviously I was wrong. Pulled the module out and I didnt experience the usual delays when cruising and quickly applying gas.
On a lighter note, 681ft/lbs @ 4000rpm's helps with not needing to brake boost
No delay in throttle, no weird cold start issues with the throttle input.
After picking up my car Friday, on Saturday morning I start it, warm it up, and couldnt move down the street. Same issue as before when I picked it up from Forged, I thought it was the Haltech wigging out but obviously I was wrong. Pulled the module out and I didnt experience the usual delays when cruising and quickly applying gas.
On a lighter note, 681ft/lbs @ 4000rpm's helps with not needing to brake boost
Hope your car doesn't break again.