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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

Brake Boosting FTW!!11

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Old 07-04-2009, 02:19 PM
  #61  
bbs350z
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this should work on an fcon yes?
Old 07-04-2009, 03:24 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by bbs350z
this should work on an fcon yes?
It should not matter which ems, it is a function of the factory computer from my understanding. Only reason we cut the wire in the patch harness is to save cutting a wire in the oem harness (while this would be perfectly acceptable too, I just prefer leaving oem harnesses alone when possible)
Old 07-05-2009, 04:34 AM
  #63  
s.mckenzie82
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This is a good thread, and informative. I'm going to keep an eye out on this one! ..... I wonder how this BB thing would react with a SC?

Last edited by s.mckenzie82; 07-05-2009 at 04:41 AM.
Old 07-05-2009, 06:00 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by s.mckenzie82
This is a good thread, and informative. I'm going to keep an eye out on this one! ..... I wonder how this BB thing would react with a SC?
Considering there is nothing to spool on a supercharger you aren't going to gain much of anything. A turbo setup needs load to spool up but a supercharger is belt driven and doesn't require anything other than RPM and a good belt to "spool".
Old 07-05-2009, 08:31 AM
  #65  
s.mckenzie82
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^---- Good point. The problem with the SC on a roll is since its linear power you’re kinda stuck between gears.... if one was to be able to build RPM's while maintaining a consistent speed SC’s would be nasty on a roll. Also if the motor is not under load the bypass would dump boost when gaining RPM’s, hence break boosting would work on a SC..... Unless I'm thinking too hard about this. But I'm about 90% sure this would work for a SC
Old 07-05-2009, 10:04 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by s.mckenzie82
if one was to be able to build RPM's while maintaining a consistent speed SC’s would be nasty on a roll.
depress the clutch?
Old 07-05-2009, 10:25 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by FineWine
depress the clutch?
If you depress the clutch the car will not accelerate there for you could not maintain a constant speed; also SC's only build boost under load. Depressing the clutch would be like rev-ing which also would cause the by-pass valve to bypass all boost.
Old 07-05-2009, 11:19 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by s.mckenzie82
If you depress the clutch the car will not accelerate there for you could not maintain a constant speed; also SC's only build boost under load. Depressing the clutch would be like rev-ing which also would cause the by-pass valve to bypass all boost.

If you're accelerating, how are you maintaining constant speed? I must be misunderstanding something.
Old 07-05-2009, 11:30 AM
  #69  
s.mckenzie82
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Originally Posted by FineWine
If you're accelerating, how are you maintaining constant speed? I must be misunderstanding something.
You are right, if you're accelerating you're not maintaining speed; I stand corrected. But if you depress the clutch your coasting there for your still not maintaining a constant speed. I was trying to say, step on the gas pedal to maintain a consistent speed. Sorry if I wasn't clear enough sounded good when I was writing it!

Last edited by s.mckenzie82; 07-05-2009 at 11:33 AM.
Old 07-05-2009, 11:48 AM
  #70  
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Ahh, makes sense!
Old 07-05-2009, 11:56 AM
  #71  
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Sorry for the noob question, but I don't understand why you would need to do this in order to burn out. Is this only relevant to lower HP FI cars? I don't have any trouble burning out; in fact, it is hard NOT to burn out on 15 or 22psi. Wouldn't you just turn off TCS and hold the brake and gas pedal from a dig and burn out? Wouldn't you just mash the gas at the right RPM range to boost quickly from a roll?
Old 07-05-2009, 12:15 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by mrg1981
Sorry for the noob question, but I don't understand why you would need to do this in order to burn out. Is this only relevant to lower HP FI cars? I don't have any trouble burning out; in fact, it is hard NOT to burn out on 15 or 22psi. Wouldn't you just turn off TCS and hold the brake and gas pedal from a dig and burn out? Wouldn't you just mash the gas at the right RPM range to boost quickly from a roll?
True, that is a burn-out but in order to do a correct burn-out you must be able to lock the front wheels and still smoke the rears. Without a mod this can not be accomplished in a Z.
Old 07-05-2009, 12:20 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by s.mckenzie82
True, that is a burn-out but in order to do a correct burn-out you must be able to lock the front wheels and still smoke the rears. Without a mod this can not be accomplished in a Z.
Hmmm...I don't seem to remember even trying it, since I have only had my car a few times on and off. I'll try it and see how it responds. I'm guessing it has to do with the braking system cutting power. Would certain aftermarket EMS units eliminate this? I have the Pro-EFI 48 Pin.
Old 07-05-2009, 12:40 PM
  #74  
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I dunno bro I don't do burn outs, Nitto Invos cost too much.
Old 05-01-2010, 02:06 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
No, it is pin 122 on an 07 Z. Also, an 07 Z has pin 126 which is the cruise control brake signal, which needs 12v if brake is released (opposite of brake switch 122). I am not sure if the ecu cross checks those.

I know this thread is old but didn't want to start a new one

Anyone tried this with the HR? is this 122 the only one needed? or do I have to do the same for the 126 also?
Old 05-01-2010, 08:35 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by s.mckenzie82
True, that is a burn-out but in order to do a correct burn-out you must be able to lock the front wheels and still smoke the rears. Without a mod this can not be accomplished in a Z.
I do this all the time now and have no problems. I don't think I have any mods to make this possible. You just need enough power to break the rear wheels loose while braking.
Old 05-01-2010, 04:45 PM
  #77  
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still would love to see a pic of exactly which plug as there are a couple grey ones on that side....

Originally Posted by specialized5223
I just unplgged the grey cable under the hood up by the reservoir. Brake lights still work, abs off, tcs off. lol.

Thanks though.
Old 05-01-2010, 08:55 PM
  #78  
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wow I was reading through this thread... lots of misunderstanding and misinformation. People were just saying things without any knowledge. basically don't read past the first page

it annoys me so badly that I almost want to quote half of the year old posts and correct them

ross
Old 05-02-2010, 06:09 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by mrg1981
I do this all the time now and have no problems. I don't think I have any mods to make this possible. You just need enough power to break the rear wheels loose while braking.

Trust me, it works much better when you have the switch connected. There's a night and day difference when doing a burnout / Brake boosting
Old 05-02-2010, 06:10 AM
  #80  
midz350
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Originally Posted by midz350
I know this thread is old but didn't want to start a new one

Anyone tried this with the HR? is this 122 the only one needed? or do I have to do the same for the 126 also?
I went and taped the 122 for now (but I don't have an engine to test that lol ) and would like to know if the 126 is needed before installing the Halteck unit and connecting the harness.

Anyone tried this in the HR please report what you did?


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