I have run into an interesting issue and i was curious to see if this was common.

We all know about the hot starts from bigger injectors if you tune for regular fuel pressure...blah blah blah.

BUT

I have noticed now that the temp is dropping (60 and below), after running the car and stopping/cutting off car, it fires up right away, but the engine is still flooded so the idle drops requiring a throttle blip or else it will cut off.

Anyone else notice this as well? I know it is to be expected because of the inability to scale down injectors on startup. I chuckled to myself when it happened...not a big deal, just wondering if other people get this too.

You always 'drive around' the UTEC I see!

 

I may have the term mixed up but isnt that a hot start? Regardless of Temp outside your engine is still hot. A cold start is when the car is really sitting for hours or days.

 

Mine does it all the time. When I get off the highway from a 30min drive and shut it off it doesn't want to start even with a bump of the pedal, but some how it always seems to start up after cranking it for about 8 seconds. Common for the Utec I hate it and I can't afford a haltec way to pricey.

 

hmm i guess it is confusing....maybe it should be called "Cold-air/hot start" maybe?

 

PS - true cold starts it fires up right away, no hesitation at all

 

What you are expensing is normal and pretty much what the Hot Start issue is. With my 440cc sometimes I'll get that problem especially when driving and the car dies in the middle of the road when I'm not careful with the clutch. Cold Start is pretty much when the car is stone cold and been sitting in your garage for hours or days....

 

Yea, my point of this thread is the car's reaction in different temps.

I stalled once in a Jersey toll booth....I paniced but luckily it started right back up and I was so worried about stalling again I threw some tire smoke at the toll collector

 

Well you car will react on different temp but that is why utec has temp compensation to help you with that.. but regarding starting issue then my car behaved the same in the Winter or Summer, or I would say same issue in the Winter or Summer. Are you sure it is not your driving that stalled your car?

 

You guys could reflash and never experience this problem, correct? I would seriously consider the Osiris end user tuner version if the Haltech is not a consideration... More pro-tuners are being added. If your UTEC tuner is an Osiris pro-tuner they may be able to give you a quick reflash to solve the starting issues for a good price.

 

What he said.

 

Yes, I have same exact issue... Temps are dropping here as well, 58 in morning, 73 in afternoon. Just keep blipping the throttle now and again. It is force of habit whenever off throttle and at stop lights. Will be reflashing soon to correct.

 

If you car is stalling at red lights I think you have tuning issues...

My car was tuned in 90 degree heat, and where I live it is regularly in the 40's in the mornings and at night and only gets into about the mid-60s during the day. This is with 650cc RC injectors. I idle at around 600-700rpm. If anyone should be having this problem, its me. Yet I rarely, if ever, have the dreaded hot start issue.... Maybe once in fifty starts. And I've never had my car die at a red light or stop sign. That would drive me nuts.

 

I've never had any stalling issues but from a completely cold start (in the morning after 8-10 hours of no use) the car starts-up and roars to life.

If the day is really hot and I've been driving around and say, turn off the car to go eat lunch, when I come back, sometimes the car's start-up is quite laborious as if it is gasping for air BUT......it ALWAYS starts-up.

 

Yeah, either there is a leak or tuning issue.. I have never had my car die when idling.. ever!!!! I have driven my car at 100F and 10F and never my car died when just idling.

 

Lol...yes some more fine tuning is needed. My car hasnt died at a light in the last six months. With larger injectors and not being able to control timing the stock ecu tends to "freak out" and try to correct everything to stock levels. A higher idle adjustment has helped some, but you might as well have the whole thing reflashed. This has been covered in other threads btw, try the search button. Good luck.

 

Why wont the ECU have full control of your ignition when idling or when stopping? Out of boost you just basically tune your fuel map 0 column and leave the Timing map 0 column to ECU control.

 

wow that must be really annoying. I guess that's a good enough reason for me to hold off on changing to UTEC from my current stock vortech setup w/ Unichip

 

Exactly. You could use the reflash to scale the injectors and fix the warm start, and still retain the UTEC. Let us know if you have any questions on this.

 

FYI My stall was driving error, not tuning related.

It performs well for the money, but I see myself upgrading to a Haltech or FCON in the future to accompany my build