Got Some Codes, Need some help!!!
Glad it's fixed Chris. So odd that it caused the A/F to go haywire sporadically. Maybe it was intermittently working which prevented the tell-tale CEL light from clueing you in. I hope one of the pros comes on here to explain why these sensors go bad or does anyone know? Overheating? Anyway to prevent it?
Last edited by rcdash; Oct 17, 2008 at 02:13 PM.
Glad it's fixed Chris. So odd that it caused the A/F to go haywire sporadically. Maybe it was intermittently working which prevented the tell-tale CEL light from clueing you in. I hope one of the pros comes on here to explain why these sensors go bad or does anyone know? Overheating? Anyway to prevent it?
Also sharif also stated that it seemed once the car got hot enough is when the trouble occured. I guess heat was just causing some kind of resistance which would result in a faulty connection to the crank sensor.
too bad that 700$ wasnt spent initially on a EMS that wasnt locked as I bet it took Sharif only 5 mins to figure out the problem and prolly a lot of hours to just transport there 
congrats on getting the car back on the road. Wonder if the 1st backfire destryed the sensor?

congrats on getting the car back on the road. Wonder if the 1st backfire destryed the sensor?
that would be just about impossible for a backfire to destroy the sensor. the sensor is mounted on the bottom of the transmission. it reads a pattern of teeth that spins around on the flywheel.
sorry i am moving and have been soooo busy. i have a couple cars left at the shop to wrap up and then i am regrouping with a brand new Performance Factory!!! thanks everyone
too bad that 700$ wasnt spent initially on a EMS that wasnt locked as I bet it took Sharif only 5 mins to figure out the problem and prolly a lot of hours to just transport there 
congrats on getting the car back on the road. Wonder if the 1st backfire destryed the sensor?

congrats on getting the car back on the road. Wonder if the 1st backfire destryed the sensor?
A backfire wouldn't hurt the sensor. Most of the time the sensor is damaged when removed or left in place when a clutch & flywheel are done. This peice of electronics is a little more sensitve than most believe. The damage was most likely done when the car was in the shop.
you are absolutely correct. we actually play a little game with all the cars that leave our shop and put ONE bad sensor in. then we make bets between ourselves for the amount of time it takes for the car not to run right.
i won $200 dollars on chris's car!! pretty excited about it, he almost made it all the way home....
Last edited by Audible Mayhem; Oct 18, 2008 at 07:38 AM.
you are absolutely correct. we actually play a little game with all the cars that leave our shop and put ONE bad sensor in. then we make bets between ourselves for the amount of time it takes for the car not to run right.
i won $200 dollars on chris's car!! pretty excited about it, he almost made it all the way home....
i won $200 dollars on chris's car!! pretty excited about it, he almost made it all the way home....

good stuff Chris! Hopefully the weather cooperates and you get some seat time now, and smooth sailing!!!
Not the first time I've seen a bad sensor on a Z and not get a specified code for it (remember my coil issue a few weeks ago?). I'm happy to hear it didn't require major surgery to diagnose and fix. Diagnosing these types of problems can be a royal pain in the rear, but you're not new to the game, so you know the deal. Modern technology often clouds our view and we think the issue is more elaborate than it sometimes is. Sometimes it just takes a fresh set of eyes and a clear head to sit down, and going back to basics.
Not the first time I've seen a bad sensor on a Z and not get a specified code for it (remember my coil issue a few weeks ago?). I'm happy to hear it didn't require major surgery to diagnose and fix. Diagnosing these types of problems can be a royal pain in the rear, but you're not new to the game, so you know the deal. Modern technology often clouds our view and we think the issue is more elaborate than it sometimes is. Sometimes it just takes a fresh set of eyes and a clear head to sit down, and going back to basics.
Glad it's fixed Chris. So odd that it caused the A/F to go haywire sporadically. Maybe it was intermittently working which prevented the tell-tale CEL light from clueing you in. I hope one of the pros comes on here to explain why these sensors go bad or does anyone know? Overheating? Anyway to prevent it?
We also carry a couple spares to the track, incase one decides to take a dump.
Yup, glad it was an easy fix...but unfortunately it still takes time to figure it out.
Great information! I never realized that the crank position sensor dealt with that amount of data with that much precision...
It almost seems like a miracle that they every work... not that they fail once in a while.
Here's a little blurb from the FSM if any of you are interested.
It almost seems like a miracle that they every work... not that they fail once in a while.
Here's a little blurb from the FSM if any of you are interested.
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