NE1 removed PCV on passenger side valve cover?
Drill it out and run both the driver/passenger valve covers to a catch can, then to a turbo inlet pipe. This will create a vacuum, although its not very much of one. Or you could run both open if you really want. There doesnt "have" to be a vacuum applied.
Having vacuum on only the passenger side will work also, but it is not normally how people do crankcase evac systems. Pretty much PCV ftl.
Having vacuum on only the passenger side will work also, but it is not normally how people do crankcase evac systems. Pretty much PCV ftl.
In this pic, you can see where the line is. In my setup, I removed the plastic nipples from the valve covers and drill and tapped it for use with AN fittings and -4AN line.
Drill it out and run both the driver/passenger valve covers to a catch can, then to a turbo inlet pipe. This will create a vacuum, although its not very much of one.
Having vacuum on only the passenger side will work also, but it is not normally how people do crankcase evac systems. Pretty much PCV ftl.
Having vacuum on only the passenger side will work also, but it is not normally how people do crankcase evac systems. Pretty much PCV ftl.
But after reading your previous link, it seems that having an exhaust slash-cut is a better idea. The exhaust will create the same amount of vacuum. In addition, the turbo,IC & motor will not get all of the CC ventilation.
how about this
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...?topic=96426.0 (ohh yeah, bottom part of that smog pump thread goes off topic some and is NSFW)
for less than 100$ you can have a vacuum pumped setup.
I assume you'd just put the pump on the pax side drilled out pcv?
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...?topic=96426.0 (ohh yeah, bottom part of that smog pump thread goes off topic some and is NSFW)
for less than 100$ you can have a vacuum pumped setup.
I assume you'd just put the pump on the pax side drilled out pcv?
Last edited by str8dum1; Nov 27, 2008 at 09:50 AM.
Either is fine I think. Some still think the exhaust slash cut will create pressure with an exhaust system that is not "open-header" like. I also wouldnt feel bad about not running a vacuum source on the valve covers.
the valve covers are already connected. there is a hose that goes under the intake manifold that connects the 2 valve cover for PCV use.
In this pic, you can see where the line is. In my setup, I removed the plastic nipples from the valve covers and drill and tapped it for use with AN fittings and -4AN line.
In this pic, you can see where the line is. In my setup, I removed the plastic nipples from the valve covers and drill and tapped it for use with AN fittings and -4AN line.
And what type of fitting did you plumb into the valve cover. o-ring sealed?
something like this maybe?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
the valve covers are already connected. there is a hose that goes under the intake manifold that connects the 2 valve cover for PCV use.
In this pic, you can see where the line is. In my setup, I removed the plastic nipples from the valve covers and drill and tapped it for use with AN fittings and -4AN line.
In this pic, you can see where the line is. In my setup, I removed the plastic nipples from the valve covers and drill and tapped it for use with AN fittings and -4AN line.
Im interested in how you tapped the AN fitting to the Valve Cover. Isnt the valve cover plastic? Also, on a NA vehicle, would connecting the 2 valve covers [like you did] be ok? I would rather not use a catch can, which will not eliminate blow by, and do what you did. And finally, should one do this to a NA car, should one put a breather on the Driver side PVC? or leave it connected to the intake? Thanks
Jet is right. I broke off one of the nipples on the valve cover, and the setup you see is the result. lucky break, huh?!?! the valve covers are joined together just like the stock set up.
also to Tony T,
no....each fuel rail has its own feed. you could loop them around though......with enough fuel flow, it should make a difference.
finally, the fittings I put into the valve covers are 1/8" NPT to 90 degree -4AN Swivel fittings. no o-rings or gaskets.....just a good tight NPT fitting with thread sealer.
also to Tony T,
no....each fuel rail has its own feed. you could loop them around though......with enough fuel flow, it should make a difference.
finally, the fittings I put into the valve covers are 1/8" NPT to 90 degree -4AN Swivel fittings. no o-rings or gaskets.....just a good tight NPT fitting with thread sealer.
The breather port is 5/8" I believe, and the ones they usually sell at the store are something like 3/8". If that's all you can find, I would just leave the stock hose on the breather, but spin it 180 degrees so that it sits behind the intake plenum. Then use a 3/8" to 5/8" adapter to connect the breather filter to hose. If you angle the hose up a bit, it will also help prevent the filter from getting soaked with oil (which might happen if you are F/I).
Im usually not one to buy generic parts due to their usual lack in quality and Id rather go with the right size rather than do a conversion. I believe K&N sells breather filters @ many different sizes and "Push-in" and "Push-On" versions
The breather port is 5/8" I believe, and the ones they usually sell at the store are something like 3/8". If that's all you can find, I would just leave the stock hose on the breather, but spin it 180 degrees so that it sits behind the intake plenum. Then use a 3/8" to 5/8" adapter to connect the breather filter to hose. If you angle the hose up a bit, it will also help prevent the filter from getting soaked with oil (which might happen if you are F/I).
Here is the link to the KN part numbers for their crankcase breathers. They come in all sizes including 3/8 and 5/8
http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm
http://www.knfilters.com/vent.htm