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Powerlab single vs. ASP twins

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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:13 AM
  #21  
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It gets me out of pointless arguments with the old lady, so I figured it may work with you...

Anyway,
I almost sold my kit and got a powerlab, but I figured I that I would make do with what I had. People make in excess of 600whp with the APS, and a bit more with the powerlab..I just liked the idea of one turbo, one oil line, ect... personal preference is all
Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:17 AM
  #22  
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APS Suck *****
Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:25 AM
  #23  
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One turbo is the main reason im still deciding on the powerlab, Im not sure i like how the right hand bank has to travel up and back on its self to get to the turbo?

Does any one else think this may cause unequal exhaust pressure? And make one banks AFR's different to the one with the shorter manifold to the turbo?
Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:36 AM
  #24  
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Greddy
Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by djtimodj
Why is it that you think the aps kit is cheap in the quality? I've heard many reviews saying it's one of the best fitting and built kits out there?

I'm looking for a kit that will give you great response and not peaky (nothing untill 4k rpm then power screams up as it come up on boost) power. On my local road corse I would say I'm never lower than 4k rpm so I would allways be on boost with both kits.

I'm just want to know what kit will give you the best "kick in the ***" as it spools up. I think the aps will respond more like a big block NA engine in power curve, where as the PL kit may have a steeper power curve as it spools?

What do you think guys.
lol
well i cant talk about the aps quality since i don't have the kit, but however i think the kit might be priced a bit on the highside considering that APS makes all the parts...so if you compare the aps BOV with the Tial BOV(in pl kit), the tial bov will be better choice,......i don't like that they are internal WG too...those need to go. If you care about looks, i think the choice is obvious. These are a few of the things why i personally only like the aps extreme of the aps kits but its a bit much more than the OP needs.

Talking about lag with a single gt35r is overrated, its very responsive as you can see form the dyno I posted... and at 653whp its more than the standard aps kits...that i think max out somewhere slightly above 600whp... but you cant have room to upgrade, the PL you can use a gt37r for 700whp(about same spool at gt35r) and some minor modifications and you would be good.
Also twin turbos are way harder to install and maintain than singles.

Here is a dyno for an APS btw if you want to compare http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/4...5406078bp1.jpg ...now this car uses vpro though.



BTW... I dont know about RHD cars, but i imagine will requiere modifications.

Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; Nov 13, 2008 at 09:28 AM.
Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:49 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by SlideFox
I just think the APS kit looks cheap, with there Muffler hose intake tube, and a few other things.

Anyways, the APS Kit will give you a quicler spool, since it's a smaller turbo. The Powerlab kit with give you, what I call "The Supra Effect". Where you are getting good power in the low end, and then WAW insta spool at like 4,000 rpm. So your dyno graph would be flat until roughly 4,000RPM and then shoot straight up in HP

The intake tube is what I was talking about


Here's a pic of what I was talking about.
http://www.*********.com/w/images/e/e0/APS_TT_002.jpg

Yes, I understand it's just the compressor inlet tube, but it looks to be an off-the-Home Depot-shelf item. The OP is looking for the tuner kit so we can forget about the Unichip. Personally, I would pick up the JWT TT kit over the APS.
Old Nov 10, 2008 | 11:50 AM
  #27  
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I'm pretty sure that my APS TT tuner kit has Tial BOV and external wastegates. I got mine from Z1Motorsports for 5K shipped, there is a thread if you do a search.

edit **** - my bad BOV is APS.

Last edited by Cass007; Nov 10, 2008 at 12:14 PM.
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 12:02 AM
  #28  
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Don't get the NEW APS kits. They no longer use a true Garrett dual ball-bearing turbos. Instead they are journey-bearing Mitsu replicas or something like that.

The GTM kid is VERY nice and high quality, but more expensive than the Powerlab.

GReddy and JWT are also good options. Now that APS is using crappy turbos, might as well go with the GReddy. Cheaper, reliable, proven to work, strong *** turbos that will work you all day.

Powerband/full boost should be slightly below the [old] APS kit, if not the same. Anyways nobody can probably tell the difference anyways and I'll just put my money on who's the better driver not the kit. I can't even seem to find whether the new turbos are actually made by Mitsubishi or not.

With GReddy you know what you're getting into and it is good.
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 02:10 AM
  #29  
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This thread was not what's the best twin kit out there, if I go twins I will be with the old style APS with garett gt turbo's.

Another question is can you still use a front strut bar with the PL kit as all he pics I've seen don't have a brace on?
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 04:55 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by djtimodj
This thread was not what's the best twin kit out there, if I go twins I will be with the old style APS with garett gt turbo's.

Another question is can you still use a front strut bar with the PL kit as all he pics I've seen don't have a brace on?
Are you referring to the crash bar, or the strut tower bar?

The crash bar can be re-used, but just requires you to notch it to clear the I/C.
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 06:28 AM
  #31  
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I was meaning the tower bar but thanks for the info on notching out the crash bar on the front. Does any one have any pics from under the car with the PL kit on as all the pics I've found are just engine bay shorts or the PL kit pics off there own website?
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 06:30 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by djtimodj
I was meaning the tower bar but thanks for the info on notching out the crash bar on the front. Does any one have any pics from under the car with the PL kit on as all the pics I've found are just engine bay shorts or the PL kit pics off there own website?
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...o-install.html

I think at this point jeffie's post and pix should be a sticky.. lol

Last edited by Highway Riding; Nov 11, 2008 at 06:44 AM.
Old Nov 11, 2008 | 06:59 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by djtimodj
I was meaning the tower bar but thanks for the info on notching out the crash bar on the front. Does any one have any pics from under the car with the PL kit on as all the pics I've found are just engine bay shorts or the PL kit pics off there own website?
The PowerLab kit wouldn't effect the tower brace....

Old Nov 11, 2008 | 07:46 AM
  #34  
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I just put my strut tower bar back on with no clearance issues. I do have a few washers placed into mine to raise it up alil since I have a plenum spacer.
Old Nov 12, 2008 | 02:25 PM
  #35  
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Strut bar fitment is fine.I didnt space anything out..but forget lowering your car if you have a PL kit. My car is stock ride height and I hit on every speed bump.
Old Nov 12, 2008 | 06:35 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by SnyperZ
Strut bar fitment is fine.I didnt space anything out..but forget lowering your car if you have a PL kit. My car is stock ride height and I hit on every speed bump.
Not true. What part is supposedly hitting??? Just about every PowerLab install Intense has done has been on lowered cars with coilovers and I haven't heard of any complaints, problems, or issues from the local folks.

The shop's widebody G is lowered significantly and has been street driven plenty. When the car was up on the lift, the only thing I saw with scrapes was the GT Spec 4-point ladder brace.
Old Nov 12, 2008 | 07:29 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by RudeG_v2.0
Not true. What part is supposedly hitting??? Just about every PowerLab install Intense has done has been on lowered cars with coilovers and I haven't heard of any complaints, problems, or issues from the local folks.

The shop's widebody G is lowered significantly and has been street driven plenty. When the car was up on the lift, the only thing I saw with scrapes was the GT Spec 4-point ladder brace.
I think he his talking about the lower flange on the DP Rude...
Old Nov 13, 2008 | 03:14 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by SnyperZ
Strut bar fitment is fine.I didnt space anything out..but forget lowering your car if you have a PL kit. My car is stock ride height and I hit on every speed bump.
Thats not good at all. My car is on KW coils but not lowered much at all. may be 15mm all round?

Does the DP flange hang lower than the stock y pipe flange? Thats the lowest point on my car but i hardley ever scrape. I drive very slow over any speed bumps/ crapy roads.
Old Nov 13, 2008 | 08:15 AM
  #39  
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other than sniperz, every other person i know with the PL kit is lowered lol... i dont understand why all the big fuss
Old Nov 13, 2008 | 09:08 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by djtimodj
Thats not good at all. My car is on KW coils but not lowered much at all. may be 15mm all round?

Does the DP flange hang lower than the stock y pipe flange? Thats the lowest point on my car but i hardley ever scrape. I drive very slow over any speed bumps/ crapy roads.
Then you should be fine.

The lowered cars in AZ with the PowerLab kit aren't having the problem that SnyperZ supposedly has at stock ride height. LOL



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