keepupp

Hey guys and Gals...I have installed my Procharger and I think I and maybe all of us may start having probs like MaxHax had. The dischage tube that comes directly off of the supercharger is SOOOOO close to the frame that it gets pinched...not completely shut, but pretty close. Can everyone with the Procharger take a look at this and let me know about your clearance......I dont think this problem would be unique to me since the supercharger and discharge tube should be in the same exact location for all of us...not the other piping could be different as some of the tubes may have to be cut...but anyhow, any responses are appreciated. I believe tthis could produce a boost problem and negate the use of the intercooler......I sawe on an earlier post that someone was getting about 5.6 psi out of the 7 psi pulley which may have something to do with this...let me know!!

Dan

GaryK

The blower discharge hose is pinched down some on mine, not by the frame, but by the black bracket on the other side of the hose. I have about 1/8" clearance on the frame side, which is the way I wanted it. Although this hose is probably pinched some on all installations, it should not cause the problems Max has. Assuming you are talking about the excessive crankcase pressure, this will not affect that....if anything less boost might improve the situation. But, with the small amount the discharge hose is pinched, I doubt you'll see much of a decrease in the boost.

Also, I'm seeing a peak of 6 psi boost. I didn't really expect to see the full 7 psi they advertise, and the boost will vary some from car to car especially if they have other mods.

TheSVTKid

Gark, great write up... I couldn't agree more. yes the tubing does get pinched a little bit (the sacrafice you make with not cutting a car) And was that way on all the installs I have done so far. But i can say for 7psi of boost, that huge 3 core intercooler is almost overkill. The intercooler it's self will support much much more then that.

EA

SIDE NOTE: The last install I did, had headers, cat pipes, and cat back. Also featured the crawford intake (not polished) It was down on boost, since all the enhanced air flow. Though only by a matter of a few pounds, so I believe he will be buying a set of pulleys from ATI. I know that ATI only rates their 7psi on a STOCK car, so if you have mods, plan for slightly lower boost, and a pulley swap in order. Only thing to remember is that you can add pulleys to make up for boost, but your stock injectors will only support so much HP. So if you had 7psi when you car was stock and made 360HP. Then you add headers, and cat back, pulley back up to get boost, and make 400HP. You have to realize that you might be getting close to the end, without an injector swap. I am just waiting to see who is going to be the first one to make BIG power with this set up. And drop the money on computer tuning, and injectors, or maybe even a stand alone. Common, rods pistons, stand alone... Here Supra, supra, supra

jesseenglish

Yeah it's pinched a little, but it's not going to make a real difference. I saw the low boost, but I'm fine with it. It's plenty of power for me the only thing I'd recommend if you're getting super low boost is to test your system for leaks if it's really low. Meaning with your car at an idle, spray starting fluid around the various hose connections. If you see an increase in rpm you'll need to tighten up that connection some.

keepupp

Do you gus think that Procharger got 7 psi out of their kit? This kinda concerns me.....anybody here with that hose piched with dynos please post.....thanks!

Dan

ForceInduction

Remember psi varies depending on elevation, engine modifications, belt contact, and other elements.

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

During heavy acceleration, I am getting 0.5 cm/kg sq. which for you non-metric folk, translates to 7.11 psi. This is on my Greddy boost gauge. I have a Borla true dual exhaust.

My dyno showed 350 RWHP and 284 torque. It was about 89 degrees and humid on dyno day. Not sure of the elevation but Maryland can't be too high above sea level.

Can someone post a pic (or at least a better description) of what tube/pipe you are saying is getting pinched? I'm not sure which one you mean.

keepupp

Dr Bonz, the tube we are referring to comes directly off the supercharger and travels just behind the drivers side wheel well down towards the intercooler (sorry, no cam avail). It will be hard to just look under the hood and see it since it is kinda hidden, but you can take your hand and feel for it.

Dan

elektrik_juggernaut

Yes, this hose was pinched pretty bad on mine initially.......i took a 1/4 of an inch off the top of the hose.......this put the angle in it closer to the frame, and GREATLY relieved the pinching.....either way, this restriction will not cause what caused MaxHax's woes.......the only thing that could have murdered his rings like that is a lean condition.....if your FMU is set right, it'll give you the right amount of fuel for whatever amount of boost you engine is getting

Doc, the tube we're talking about is the little one that comes off the compressor.....if you look in your manual, it the one they say must be connected to the C-2 before it's installed.

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

Let's all turn to page 44 in our ATI manuals shall we...

Is it the one labeled as "J" in the diagram on that page?

GaryK

Thats the one!

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Gary.

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

Now, for the complete illiterate in me, could someone point me to the exact page/pic that shows what I need to do to tension the belts. Mine seem to have a little more laxity than before but to be honest, there seems to be even less (almost no) belt squeal now though.

I have about 500 miles on mine now and I figure I better tighten the belts.

jesseenglish

Which belt, the cog belts or the serpentine belt?

jesseenglish

The cog belts are supposed to have some slop in them. I think you're supposed to be able to push them down at least .4" I actually loosened mine up more because they are louder the tighter they are.

If you insist on tightening the cog belts, you'll need to take off your plastic engine cover. There should be a 14mm (I believe) jack screw bolt that is behind the tensioner pulley. The head of the jack screw bolt is pointing up. Anyways loosen the bolt in the center of the tensioner pulley and then loosen the jack screw tensioner bolt enough so the cog belt is quite loose

The belt you just loosened is connected to 2 cog pulleys. The one to the right (drivers side) has three smaller allen wrench screws on the billet bracket that need to be loosened I believe they are 7mm or 8mm. After they are loosened you can adjust the tension of the final SC drive cog belt by sticking a screwdriver into one of the two holes in the round hunk of metal between the two cog belt pulleys. You can turn this clockwise or counterclockwise. Not sure which way tightens or loosens though.

Once you have the SC drive pulley tightened to where you like it. you can retighten the smaller allen wrench screws.

Then I suggest you tighten the tensioner pulley center bolt a little bit. Not super tight. you still want to be able to adjust the jack screw which moves the tensioner pulley up and down. If it's too tight it locks that pulley into place. It should be just enough to make sure the tensioner pulley is not at an angle which happens if you loosen the center bolt too much. Anyways, then I usually start the engine. Be careful those belts will take off fingers and grab loose bits of clothing. I tighten the jack screw tensioner bolt until the belt starts making a little noise and then back it off just a bit until the noise quiets down. Tighten the tensioner center pulley bolt the rest of the way. If the belt starts making noise again as your tightening it, loosen the tensioner center pulley bolt again and then loosen the jackscrew bolt a little more. Then retighten the tensioner center pulley bolt again.

This is how I reduced my belt noise quite a bit and the belts haven't slipped yet.

little_rod

Hey Bonz, at what rpm is that at??? I assume it is close to the redline, but do you know where???

jesseenglish

Serpentine belt.

You shouldn't need to tighten this one unless there is belt squeal.

To the left (passenger side) and just below the SC main drive pulley, it's the big one with both a cog belt and a serpentine belt on it, there is an idler tensioner pulley similar to the tensioner pulley that had the jack screw in the above post. The jack screw tensioner for this one though is beneath the idler pulley. If you have the plastic cover off the bottom of the the car it is much easier to access this jackscrew bolt, otherwise you've got to reach your hand down between the radiator and the various belts and pulleys to do it. There might be an access hole in the bottom of the plastic, but I'm not sure. I'll check tomorrow.

What you should do is loosen the idler pulley center bolt 15mm I believe. Then you can tighten the 12mm jack screw bolt. Once you're happy with the tightness of the belt retighten the idler pulley center bolt back up and call it done.

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

I would think that my 7 psi was at redline or close to it. I can't tell when I am driving since I can't see the gauge while driving. I am looking at the memory function on the gauge.

little_rod

Well, I just asked cause you never really know where you shifted, so that number could have been past the redline but before the cutoff. With you getting that number for your boost though, it does raise the other numbers that have been coming out into question.

Guess that brings me to a question. Where is boost measured??? If an SC or TC is putting out a specific amount of boost pressure, but the intake is depressurizing the air, which boost should you go by?? I assume that you would go by the boost that the engine is seeing, which is after any depressurization by an intake.

If the boost pressure is down from what it is "supposed" to be, does this help or hurt power?? I know that you can use more boost (ie different pulley or turn up the TC) which can give you more power, but for a given setting I wonder would the power output would do. Ideally, I know that the decrease in pressure would be easy to adjust to with a TC, but it would be harder with an SC cause of the pulley situation.

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

Sorry man, that is all Greek to me I only have so much room in my brain and I need a lot of it for orthopedic surgery stuff so I only have a little bit left for the automotive stuff