Aw come on! You don't really want to leave us, do you?

 

No faith in Japtrix?

 

JetPilot, give Roger a call. He'll figure it out for you.

 

Sorry to see you go Larry. Ive been through the ups and downs, and havent quit yet. But perhaps you are a smarter person than me, my car is like an abusive husband, it beats my a$$ when I dont need the problems, and like a weak sauce b!tch I go back

Good luck with whatever you do in the future!

 

I read through your PCV modification thread and most of the other recent, popular crankcase ventilation threads but didn't see where you were having a specific problem.

What is your crankcase pressure issue?

Does it actually affect the car's performance, or is it a smoke issue? Does whatever happens, happen all the time? Give us some feedback and we'll try to help you out.

 

wow.

 

When I am on the track my intercooler is filling with oil. The crankcase pressure is causing the turbo oil return lines to pressurize which is causing the seals to leak oil into the turbo compressors/exhaust. The MAF sensor gets covered in oil and fouls. The intercooler couplers get covered in oil and one of them ends up blowing off leaving me stuck on the side of the track looking like an @ss.

I can't pay $1000 for a track day for a few laps. I thought I had fixed it with Sharif's advice, but it didn't work for me.

Not so funny story.... I pulled off the side of the track out of view of the pits where my wife was. She takes my lap times and saw that I didn't come around when I should of. For some reason an ambulance was called out onto the track. My wife saw that and the fact I didn't come around and thought something had happened to me. My friend Chris took her in his truck to look for me and there I was sitting on the concrete wall waiting for the tow truck. My wife was shaking she was so scared. I guess she thought i was in a bad accident.

 

That about sums up my situation as well!

 

can you give us the breakdown on your car? im sure its somewhere but if you could post it... basic setup and what power do you run on the street, on the track, etc. what is your A/F on the track and street? have you checked the plugs to see if they are clean or oil covered? just trying to put together as much info as possible. but of course, the leakdown is the first place to start... a bad leakdown will point exactly where your problems are starting at. if its good, then there is some more thinking to do. are you running custom oil return lines or the regular greddy ones? the regular greddy ones on late kits are pretty lame with that big banjo bolt, i would weld on a -10 bung and use 90 degree mandral fittings

 

Hi Charles,

The engine/turbo setup has approx 3500mi on it. It has Arias ED pistons 9:1 , Eagle rods, GTM stage 1 turbo cams, and JWT springs and retainers. I have a Greddy TT and I make 565 whp @ 16psi. it is only driven on the track. My A/F is about 12.5. Plugs are clean/dry with no oil residue. I run braided oil return lines with 90 degree A/N fittings. If you want more info check my signature. It links to my cardomain page with a complete list of mods.

 

You can't worry about looking silly, because you are racing. Racing is hard... there are always difficult problems to overcome. That's why racing sucks a lot of the time, but feels great when everything works right.

I wonder if you could be just pounding the oil past the rings with high boost and normal compression combined. How much boost are you running? Do you have a way to cut your boost in half to test and see if that helps your problem?

I notice that a lot of people on these forums add an oil pan extension and then add additional oil to fill it up to the old mark. The plan is to always run the least amount of oil required because the crankshaft splashes through it robbing you of power. Maybe this could be hurting you.

That is pretty expensive, but racing is expensive. How long does it take to foul out the MAF? Can you drive your car on the street? Could you cut your boost in half and test it on the street?

That is an unfortunate set of circumstances. I guess you have to hope that they don't all happen again.

 

just checked out your cardomain, never seen your car before, its SICK. i also rock advans, its the only way to roll!

well let me know when the leakdown test is done, ive got some minor ideas but they are out of place until the test is complete.. sorry to sound like a broken record.

 

The only way for oil to get into the intercooler is through the turbo seals. The oil isn't going into the combustion chamber past the rings. I am going to reduce the boost as well and see what happens. Good idea. I need to get different springs for the wastegates.

Our cars have windage trays that keep the crank dry. None of the crank is immersed in oil. We have oil squirters that lubricate the cylinders. It's not like the old GM or Ford motors.

 

If I can get Quadcam (Andrew) over here tomorrow I will have the leakdown info for you tomorrow night.

Thanks for the compliment. I am very familiar with your car.

 

You could temporarily move your boost gauge to read crankcase pressure so you can tell if the turbo seals are truly shot or the cc pressure is actually spiking. (assuming that doesn't mess up your boost controller) With the open breathers, I don't understand how you could be spiking, even with blowby. Perhaps oil pressure is just too high - that's the other side of the equation (for turbo seal leakage)...

 

Wow, there is actually some excellent advice in this thread. Its nice to be reminded that there are some very helpful, intelligent people in this sub-forum

 

It would be extremely unfortunate if this was the case and I'm not sure if it was mentioned yet but it really seems like its your seals on your turbos, I know this might sound odd and unconventional but I used to run a pressure regulator with a gauge on all my journal bearing turbos and I would regulate them to 30 psi(sounds low I know but more than enough...apparently.A friend ran a 60-1 6 years no issues like that) . Now the dash size of the line going to the turbo from the motor is important if you dont run a restrictor on the turbo.

I dont know anything about the greddy kit but are you using any restrictors? are they the supplied lines?

Now as far as crank case pressure is concerned if you truly think thats what it is just log it via your ems if it allows for it with a external map and a vac sorce off the valve covers, can be done easy with an aem ems but I'm not sure whats available for the Z. Also if thats not possible just use a manual boost gauge and see if theres pressure that way, Have seem 5-7psi before, but ideally you should be as close to 0 as possible. if you are +1 to maybe 1.5 around 0 then it is definitely NOT a crankcase issue, anymore than 3psi and it might be I guess.

well that was long winded but I hope it points you in the right direction, get a boost gauge on that valve cover!

Edit: Ohhh rcdash got me lol

 

like others hae said and I have rpeviosuly said this to larry.........finding out the actual pressure in the crankcase is going to tell us more than anything. locating a "Dry" spot to tap for a pressure sensor may be easier said than done though.

I am not surprised by the crankcase pressure though. larry has the car setup with a drilled out PCV venting to atmosphere. the driver's side breather is still the stock size (not drill out.) basically, these openings are smaller than your average drinking straw.........then add lines and a catch can......and another line to vent the catch can..................that doesn't exactly equate to an easy path for crankcase pressure to escape.

what is odd is that no one else seems to have this issue.............

 

tap after the catch can

 

Sometimes when I am really stuck, I try to make a major change to see if I am going in the right direction. It seems like you still have relatively small outlets for your crankcase pressure... one drilled PCV valve and a standard PCV valve in the drivers side of the car.



I might just drill each valve cover out and put a standard set of valve cover breathers in. That should be many levels of magnitude greater than what you currently have. If crankcase ventilation is the problem, a pair of these large valve cover breathers should identify the issue for you.