Ok guys here is my problem. Forget the vacuum issue now. I am having trouble getting my car to idle. I have a Haltech and I have been working with Hal on this but we are still able to not come up with the problem why this car will not start. I was hoping maybe one of you guys has had a similar problem.

Symptoms:
1. Before (month ago) had car idling, turned it off came back 2 hours later have not been able to get it started since then.

2.Car will not hold an idle under any circumstances.

3.I can get the engine to kick over but will not hold an idle

4.I am using a fairly conservative tune (Hal Made it) yet I foul out plugs after about 1 min of actual cranking time. Possible injector problem. Upgrading soon.

5. Timing is good

6. Car has ran before and driving (6 months ago) changed engine harness have had problems ever since.

7. Have changed all crank/cam position sensors.

8. Have an oscilloscope on the way to check for voltage consistency and all on all crank/cam position sensors

9. Throttle Body will not work. Not throwing any throttle body codes or accelerator pedal codes.

10. Playing around with the Prime Pulse Injection Time I can get the car to kinda start up for approx. 4 secs but then will die cannot hold an idle so it seems to be a fuel related issue or so it seems.

11. Also seems like a sequence issue. Currently the engine will crank and the crank will do a revolution then there is something misfiring and the crank will rotate backwards for approx. 1/4 of a revolution. This happens randomly sometimes like stated before it will kinda idle but wont hold it. Wondering if it is possible fuel overload due to spark plugs fouling.

Mods:
Haltech EMS w/ Boost Solenoid (Custom)
Greddy TT kit
Greddy Intercooler
HKS SSQV
Greddy Upgraded Oil Feed Lines
APS Oil Pan
Custom Oil Return System
.020 Over Bore
Custom Valve Cover
Pauter Rods
Arias Extreme Duty Pistons (CR 9:1)
HKS Head Gasket
Ferrera +1mm Valves
Ferrera Valve Springs
Extensive Porting and Polish
JWT S1 Cams
Nismo Thermostat
Cosworth Race Bearings
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
Rev-Up Oil Pump
Solid Motor Mounts
AAM Throttle Body Spacer
HKS DLI II Ignition
HKS Knock Amp w/ O2 Monitoring
HKS Type 1 Turbo Timer
PLX Devices (Boost, Temp, Pressure)
Koyo Oversized Radiator
Custom Radiator Fan Setup
Samco Radiator Hoses
Innovative Dual Widebands (Haltech Monitoring)
AAM 3" Downpipes w/ Open Dumps
Greddy Turbo Exhaust
CJM Dual Fuel Pump
Custom Feed and Return Fuel Lines
Cosworth Fuel Rails
RC 750cc Injectors (Upgrading to DW 850cc)
MRev 2
New Engine Harness
GTM Stage 3 Built Auto Tranny
DDS Stage 2 Half Shafts
Chiper

 

u should go back to point A. where u started to feel the car changed. try to get ur hands on another engine harness. maybe u have the incorrect/burned harness??

 

so, this happned after u install the new engine harness ?!!

 

i really wana know whats wrong !!

 

.

 

fuel some stock fuel injectors in, along with the stock ecu and see it the car will start and hold idle. it that doesnt work, then uninstall the HKS DLI and try to start it. I had a buddy with a similar problem. His Z would crank, sometimes start, wouldnt hold idle, and did not throw any check engine lights. The problem was the aftermarket flywheel he installed was off by half a tooth.

 

ur problem sounds 25% mechanical issue and 75% ecu issue, so spend the first 25% just make sure everything is fine then move to the ecu. check the install!!

 

coilpacks mixed up. spark plugs fouled. injector not firing or stuck open. crank/cam sensor. MAF fouled (try not to use pass through timing and see if it helps) - not sure what effect stock ecu has on throttle in this condition. you have so many options to choose from! There are procedures in the FSM to diagnose each of these...

... and the last possibility would be a tune/ecu problem.

 

Right now I have the MAF blocked off and am running just an Haltech Air Temp sensor, Hal said I could do it since the Haltech calculates the air flow through the Map sensor/air temp/TPS.

Right now I am looking at buying DW 850CC injectors.

Yes D-Tuned, I was talking to Sharif and he said the same thing go back to stock try stock injectors and no Haltech see if she will get going. One problem is that it is staying in the 30's here and it is very hard to work on my car but I will change out the injectors probably sometime this week.

I checked the coilpacks all connections are correct going off of the Service Manual. The stock ECU has the power over the Haltech to stop throttle movement if something is not right.

One thing I forgot to mention. I checked the codes today guys.

Fuel Tank Temp Sensor (CJ Twin Fuel pump have yet to put a resistor on it)

P0605- ECU ROM error. Threw in a new ECU still nothing. Now I am throwing codes that the BCM and ECM will not read each other and the Key for the ignition is incorrect, but this would just stop throttle body movement no necessarily problems with timing/Fuel Injection since the Haltech has total control over that.