http://g35driver.com/forums/forced-i...otorsport.html

 

This is what I was saying JET.

I think that the heater hose has more resistance in it plus one other big factor, if coolant was to recirculate through the heater hose I don't think it would go past the coolant temp sensor. That would mean that even if the coolant in the block was up to temp the ECU might not catch that.

 

Hey Andrew, do you have a short cut mod for sealing off the rearward coolant line that goes to the throttle body and eventually over to the Driver side heater pipe. I want to eliminate those tiny hoses. I already bypassed the throttle body altogether with 1 hose from the rear hard pipe to the driver hard pipe. Now I want to do away with it altogether.
Just wondering if there is a short cut to removing the nipple from the rear pipe and plugging it with something else? Or is it best to remove and weld shut? Thanks.

 

the rear pipe can easily be tapped for a 1/8 NPT plug.
the driver's side pipe would need a "cap" to cover its nipple. the problem I found was that all the available caps I could find won't take the heat and pressure of the coolant over time. they eventually started to breakdown and leak.

 

So welding might be the simple solution for the driver side nipple and tapping then plugging the rear pipe is good to go. Thanks.

 

If you still have a thermostat installed AND remove the bypass hose how will the thermostst know when to open? When the block get's hot enough to cause it to open. I would think that you would want some flow to the thermostat so as to be opened by water temp vice the block temp. If keeping a thermostat and removing the hose drill a 1/4" hole thru the T-stat should be enough flow to make it work ok.

 

why dont you just run the coolant bypass conversion from the frontier? id imagine itd be less of a hassle

 

Explanation? /\

 

are you thinking of the pathfinder mod?

if so, the pathfinder cooling mod has nothing to do with this. the pathfinder cooling mod adds a secondary thermostat at the back, top of the block.

 

Are you looking to get this done? If so what all are you wanting to do I have some extensive write ups on this and have done several setups. let me know mike

 

For anyone else attempting to do this kind of mod it is highly highly recommended to get a pressure check done on the piping before paint or reassembly. As andrew stated earlier the rubber plugs get weak and leak and when they do go it is not a slow leak. the topic was discussed on g35 driver in full lenght under dm2 coolant bypass mod. Thanks mike

 

So is this good to do to get that pipe out of the front of the motor? I dont like how it looks.

 

We have been running these for a while, and it looks good with out all the junk in the way

 

I'm looking for an alternative/less permanant option to cap off the coolant ports left by removing some of these lines, and am considering these silicone caps:

can you guys let me know what you think about this? I have requested a sample, and will need to get out the calipers to measure the diameter of the pieces that I need to cap, unless someone out there could be nice enough to measure a few things for me???

http://www.stockcap.com/prod_detail.asp?id=181&cat=17

 

those may work for you. they say they can withstand 600* F.

Sorry, but I don't have any sizes to give you. maybe, there is a hose size printed on the factory hoses. that would be the easiest, but I don't recall seeing any sizes on the factory hoses.

 

thanks, I know that the rubber caps can dry rot and crack, so Im thinking that the silicone might be more reliable.

 

Great find!

 

See not sure of the purpose of this, it sounds like to clean up the clutter. My z is a daily driver and track car, I also live where it gets cold. Is this something could do?

 

From what I have read the bypass line is for faster warmup/emissions, and removing it has no effect on cooling. I am also interested in removing the factory oil cooler for an aftermarket one, and will need to cap off the coolant lines for this. I am also going to cap off the throttle body warmer while I'm at it.

Doing all of this will remove junk under the hood, and reduce the number of hoses that can eventually leak.

 

I think that 5/16" hose is used for those auxilliary coolant hoses. That would be this part no. for the silicone end caps: 968368 but you have to buy in lots of 1000!

So, has anyone tried these?