New Stainless Motor Mounts
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would these be as good as the one that QUADCAM has??
http://www.injectedperformance.com/e...ID=4478&VID=36
http://www.injectedperformance.com/e...ID=4478&VID=36
I'm pretty sure injected uses their own motor mounts on there race car.......so, I'd say their mount is strong.
We make and use some nice billet aluminum ones. You can tell there is a little more vibration but it is not nearly as bad as some other cars we have done with solid mounts. Hey Quad by the time you get your other mount in, you should have your chromed out pipe back.

Tim

Tim
Last edited by TurboTim; Mar 24, 2009 at 10:08 PM.
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I got around to installing the mounts tonight!!!
First thing I had to overcome was the stripped nut from the 1st time I attempted the install. I purchased a set of special sockets for worn/rounded socket......those things are awesome!!! It grabbed that nut with no problem and I torqued it right off. They were made by Irwin and I got them at Advanced Auto Parts.
Anyways, on to the install. As I said in previous posts, I have a greddy twin kit which makes this install that much more difficult.
Here's what needs to be removed:
1) Driver's side turbo inlet pipe
2) Passenger side turbo inlet pipe
3) Driver's side turbo oulet pipe
4) Passenger side turbo outlet pipe
5) Charge pipe going to Throttle Body
6) A/C compressor (unbolt and move out of the way)
7) A/C belt
Once you get all that stuff off and out of the way, you will have decent access to the stock motor mounts. The mounts themselves are only held in with 2 nuts. Very basic, but hard to get good access. With the greddy kit in place, it limits your access to the top nuts on the motor mounts. you can get a shorty 14mm wrench in there without a problem, but you won't have the strength to loosen the nut!
What I came up with was a combination of several extensions, swivel extensions, and universals. With a vast assortment of these items you CAN get to and untorque the nuts. Also, I used a breaker bar to get more leverage....makes it alot easier!
The lower bolts (17mm head) are very easy, but they are on there pretty tight. A breaker bar or a pneumatic impact gun will definately be needed to remove the lower nuts.
Once the nuts are removed, the motor will be free to raise up. For my situation with the Greddy Twins and 3" downpipes, I had another issue. The downpipes were limiting how much I could raise the motor.....so much so that I could get the driver side mount out of the car. the solution for this situation would either be to remove the DPs (hell no!!) or to loosen the main subframe bolts. Again, you'll need to break out you impact gun to loosen these bad boys. Get you 19mm socket and drop the nuts down about a 1/4". that'll give the necessary room to get the mounts out when you lift the motor.
ahhh.........lifting the motor. Alot of you will be going this install with jackstands. I, fortunately, have a lift, but you can do it either way. BEfore I got my lift, I did all my own installs with ramps and jackstands. With the car secured on you jackstands.......use a hydraulic jack to raise the motor up. a great jack point is where the transmission meets the block. great spot. You can try to use you oil pan, but don't get pissed off when you dent your pan!!!!! It is doable on the pan though, but the bellshousing of the tranny is a better spot!
Jack that biotch up until you can wiggle the motor mounts out. once they are out.......just reverse all you steps. (make sure to torque everything back to spec especially the subframe nuts!!!)
here's a couple camera phone pics when the install was done.
IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/akharper/G35/motor%20mounts/0326092051.jpg[/IMG]



First thing I had to overcome was the stripped nut from the 1st time I attempted the install. I purchased a set of special sockets for worn/rounded socket......those things are awesome!!! It grabbed that nut with no problem and I torqued it right off. They were made by Irwin and I got them at Advanced Auto Parts.
Anyways, on to the install. As I said in previous posts, I have a greddy twin kit which makes this install that much more difficult.
Here's what needs to be removed:
1) Driver's side turbo inlet pipe
2) Passenger side turbo inlet pipe
3) Driver's side turbo oulet pipe
4) Passenger side turbo outlet pipe
5) Charge pipe going to Throttle Body
6) A/C compressor (unbolt and move out of the way)
7) A/C belt
Once you get all that stuff off and out of the way, you will have decent access to the stock motor mounts. The mounts themselves are only held in with 2 nuts. Very basic, but hard to get good access. With the greddy kit in place, it limits your access to the top nuts on the motor mounts. you can get a shorty 14mm wrench in there without a problem, but you won't have the strength to loosen the nut!
What I came up with was a combination of several extensions, swivel extensions, and universals. With a vast assortment of these items you CAN get to and untorque the nuts. Also, I used a breaker bar to get more leverage....makes it alot easier!
The lower bolts (17mm head) are very easy, but they are on there pretty tight. A breaker bar or a pneumatic impact gun will definately be needed to remove the lower nuts.
Once the nuts are removed, the motor will be free to raise up. For my situation with the Greddy Twins and 3" downpipes, I had another issue. The downpipes were limiting how much I could raise the motor.....so much so that I could get the driver side mount out of the car. the solution for this situation would either be to remove the DPs (hell no!!) or to loosen the main subframe bolts. Again, you'll need to break out you impact gun to loosen these bad boys. Get you 19mm socket and drop the nuts down about a 1/4". that'll give the necessary room to get the mounts out when you lift the motor.
ahhh.........lifting the motor. Alot of you will be going this install with jackstands. I, fortunately, have a lift, but you can do it either way. BEfore I got my lift, I did all my own installs with ramps and jackstands. With the car secured on you jackstands.......use a hydraulic jack to raise the motor up. a great jack point is where the transmission meets the block. great spot. You can try to use you oil pan, but don't get pissed off when you dent your pan!!!!! It is doable on the pan though, but the bellshousing of the tranny is a better spot!
Jack that biotch up until you can wiggle the motor mounts out. once they are out.......just reverse all you steps. (make sure to torque everything back to spec especially the subframe nuts!!!)
here's a couple camera phone pics when the install was done.
IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/akharper/G35/motor%20mounts/0326092051.jpg[/IMG]



Last edited by QuadCam; Mar 26, 2009 at 08:23 PM.
Last edited by Quamen; Mar 27, 2009 at 03:11 AM.
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there's always side movement.....actually it is a torquing that occurs on the mounts. it is that same torquing that "rocks" the motor back and forth. when elevating power levels, the torquing can cause clearance issues with turbos hitting the frame rails......superchargers crashing into the radiator housings, etc. also, the solid mounts save more than 5 pounds of weight while giving you lots more room to workj with!!
there's always side movement.....actually it is a torquing that occurs on the mounts. it is that same torquing that "rocks" the motor back and forth. when elevating power levels, the torquing can cause clearance issues with turbos hitting the frame rails......superchargers crashing into the radiator housings, etc. also, the solid mounts save more than 5 pounds of weight while giving you lots more room to workj with!!
there's always side movement.....actually it is a torquing that occurs on the mounts. it is that same torquing that "rocks" the motor back and forth. when elevating power levels, the torquing can cause clearance issues with turbos hitting the frame rails......superchargers crashing into the radiator housings, etc. also, the solid mounts save more than 5 pounds of weight while giving you lots more room to workj with!!
props for the ingenuity but i wouldnt be surprised to see ur radio ending up in ur passenger seat from all the vibration
ur edit of my post was hillarious quamen
Last edited by FredB; Mar 27, 2009 at 02:38 PM.
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after a day of driving I can say that the solid mounts are noticable, but only when leaving from a dead stop. the added vibration is minimal and I would think that most Z drivers would barely notice.
I would equate the difference between the stock mounts and these solid mounts to the difference between the stock dualmass flywheel and a performance solid flywheel.
if you can get used to a solid flywheel...you will get used to solid mounts.
as far as throttle response/fell goes, it is a night and day difference. I wouldn't say the car is any faster, but you really feel that initial throttle tip-in. it is fun to just give the throttle little stabs and get pushed back into the seat. ME LIKEY!!!!!
I would equate the difference between the stock mounts and these solid mounts to the difference between the stock dualmass flywheel and a performance solid flywheel.
if you can get used to a solid flywheel...you will get used to solid mounts.
as far as throttle response/fell goes, it is a night and day difference. I wouldn't say the car is any faster, but you really feel that initial throttle tip-in. it is fun to just give the throttle little stabs and get pushed back into the seat. ME LIKEY!!!!!
after a day of driving I can say that the solid mounts are noticable, but only when leaving from a dead stop. the added vibration is minimal and I would think that most Z drivers would barely notice.
I would equate the difference between the stock mounts and these solid mounts to the difference between the stock dualmass flywheel and a performance solid flywheel.
if you can get used to a solid flywheel...you will get used to solid mounts.
as far as throttle response/fell goes, it is a night and day difference. I wouldn't say the car is any faster, but you really feel that initial throttle tip-in. it is fun to just give the throttle little stabs and get pushed back into the seat. ME LIKEY!!!!!
I would equate the difference between the stock mounts and these solid mounts to the difference between the stock dualmass flywheel and a performance solid flywheel.
if you can get used to a solid flywheel...you will get used to solid mounts.
as far as throttle response/fell goes, it is a night and day difference. I wouldn't say the car is any faster, but you really feel that initial throttle tip-in. it is fun to just give the throttle little stabs and get pushed back into the seat. ME LIKEY!!!!!
May the unbearable vibrational force that everyone says these cause be with you!!!
after a day of driving I can say that the solid mounts are noticable, but only when leaving from a dead stop. the added vibration is minimal and I would think that most Z drivers would barely notice.
I would equate the difference between the stock mounts and these solid mounts to the difference between the stock dualmass flywheel and a performance solid flywheel.
if you can get used to a solid flywheel...you will get used to solid mounts.
as far as throttle response/fell goes, it is a night and day difference. I wouldn't say the car is any faster, but you really feel that initial throttle tip-in. it is fun to just give the throttle little stabs and get pushed back into the seat. ME LIKEY!!!!!
I would equate the difference between the stock mounts and these solid mounts to the difference between the stock dualmass flywheel and a performance solid flywheel.
if you can get used to a solid flywheel...you will get used to solid mounts.
as far as throttle response/fell goes, it is a night and day difference. I wouldn't say the car is any faster, but you really feel that initial throttle tip-in. it is fun to just give the throttle little stabs and get pushed back into the seat. ME LIKEY!!!!!
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