Any Vortech owners with Competition stage 4 clutch???
Hi, can anyone with the stage 4 clutch tell me if the chattering is really noticeable with the blower running at idle? I really like the deal that Forged has with these clutches/flywheel but I also read it's loud and can sound like a cement mixer at times. Please take a few minutes to share your experiences. Thanks in advance.
Which brand? I have a Clutchmasters Fx300 clutch and LW flywheel and it chatters. People think the car is broken at times. But then again they think its broken when they hear the vortech. Lol
I believe its the LW that chatters if I'm not mistaken. But yes it can be heard at idle over the blower.
I believe its the LW that chatters if I'm not mistaken. But yes it can be heard at idle over the blower.
I have the clutch, but I think my chatter is Nismo flywheel related...I hear it when it is under 2k rpms. It does sound 'broken' but I think that is just nature of the beast.
Edit: I forgot I found a post-FMIC pipe that has been rubbing/tapping a support brace? in the passenger side front of the car....not sure of any noise is related to that as well.
It is a decent clutch once you are moving...It is a PITA in traffic. Julian told me that if you slip this clutch, it will melt it quickly...not sure of that validity of the statement, but needless to say I'm not trying to test that theory out. One of MRC's APS St customers melted his, but that might have been related to drag racing.
Edit: I forgot I found a post-FMIC pipe that has been rubbing/tapping a support brace? in the passenger side front of the car....not sure of any noise is related to that as well.
It is a decent clutch once you are moving...It is a PITA in traffic. Julian told me that if you slip this clutch, it will melt it quickly...not sure of that validity of the statement, but needless to say I'm not trying to test that theory out. One of MRC's APS St customers melted his, but that might have been related to drag racing.
Last edited by UMW350Z; Mar 26, 2009 at 05:09 PM.
I have the clutch, but I think my chatter is Nismo flywheel related...I hear it when it is under 2k rpms. It does sound 'broken' but I think that is just nature of the beast.
Edit: I forgot I found a post-FMIC pipe that has been rubbing/tapping a support brace? in the passenger side front of the car....not sure of any noise is related to that as well.
It is a decent clutch once you are moving...It is a PITA in traffic. Julian told me that if you slip this clutch, it will melt it quickly...not sure of that validity of the statement, but needless to say I'm not trying to test that theory out. One of MRC's APS St customers melted his, but that might have been related to drag racing.
Edit: I forgot I found a post-FMIC pipe that has been rubbing/tapping a support brace? in the passenger side front of the car....not sure of any noise is related to that as well.
It is a decent clutch once you are moving...It is a PITA in traffic. Julian told me that if you slip this clutch, it will melt it quickly...not sure of that validity of the statement, but needless to say I'm not trying to test that theory out. One of MRC's APS St customers melted his, but that might have been related to drag racing.
Are u guys referring to clutchmaster or the competition clutch stage 4 with the 6 puck? I believe these are 2 different brands.
at idle there isnt much chattering, low rpms easing into the clutch does cause chatter. its not that bad. the clutch can handle lots of power but man it sure is stiff and the engagement point is very small and very touchy. mine also tends to change engagement points the warmer it gets. its starts off really low then moves up quite a bit. it makes daily driving a challenge but i seem to do ok with it. i had it down really good until i got a manual civic for a daily. the civic is so easy to drive when i get into my Z and drive it like the civic, i tend to stall it a few times before i get the timing down again.
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at idle there isnt much chattering, low rpms easing into the clutch does cause chatter. its not that bad. the clutch can handle lots of power but man it sure is stiff and the engagement point is very small and very touchy. mine also tends to change engagement points the warmer it gets. its starts off really low then moves up quite a bit. it makes daily driving a challenge but i seem to do ok with it. i had it down really good until i got a manual civic for a daily. the civic is so easy to drive when i get into my Z and drive it like the civic, i tend to stall it a few times before i get the timing down again. 
I hear ya. It was either this clutch or the RPS max with cnrgy flywheel, which I heard was even stiffer when compared to the competition stage 4, lol.
Hey nexx, do u have the ss clutch line? I read that it helps a lot when it gets really hot with the engagement. I'm hoping the T trim blower is loud enough to drown out the cement mixer.
I hear ya. It was either this clutch or the RPS max with cnrgy flywheel, which I heard was even stiffer when compared to the competition stage 4, lol.
Hey nex, do u have the ss clutch line? I read that it helps a lot when it gets really hot. I just wanted to make sure what to expect. I'm hoping the T trim blower is loud enough to drown out the cement mixer.
Hey nex, do u have the ss clutch line? I read that it helps a lot when it gets really hot. I just wanted to make sure what to expect. I'm hoping the T trim blower is loud enough to drown out the cement mixer.

Did i mention that I tested a Stage 4 Comp Clutch to failure on our dyno. It was holding in the 550-587whp max range...barely. Then we added the 50 shot, and she say ENOUGH.
IMHO, one of the best bang for the buck clutches for the 400-500whp builds...750whp with RA/VRT correction factor.
Took me a few hours to review your invoice...but yes....you have an SS clutch line. 
Did i mention that I tested a Stage 4 Comp Clutch to failure on our dyno. It was holding in the 550-587whp max range...barely. Then we added the 50 shot, and she say ENOUGH.
IMHO, one of the best bang for the buck clutches for the 400-500whp builds...750whp with RA/VRT correction factor.

Did i mention that I tested a Stage 4 Comp Clutch to failure on our dyno. It was holding in the 550-587whp max range...barely. Then we added the 50 shot, and she say ENOUGH.
IMHO, one of the best bang for the buck clutches for the 400-500whp builds...750whp with RA/VRT correction factor.
ouch, I hope it holds for me. I'm not asking for a beast but something close to 500whp/450lb tq and I think forged says its been holding up to 600whp?
Are u guys referring to clutchmaster or the competition clutch stage 4 with the 6 puck? I believe these are 2 different brands.
Are u guys referring to clutchmaster or the competition clutch stage 4 with the 6 puck? I believe these are 2 different brands.
It feels like stock-tension except for the engagement
Last edited by UMW350Z; Mar 26, 2009 at 07:10 PM.
Took me a few hours to review your invoice...but yes....you have an SS clutch line. 
Did i mention that I tested a Stage 4 Comp Clutch to failure on our dyno. It was holding in the 550-587whp max range...barely. Then we added the 50 shot, and she say ENOUGH.
IMHO, one of the best bang for the buck clutches for the 400-500whp builds...750whp with RA/VRT correction factor.

Did i mention that I tested a Stage 4 Comp Clutch to failure on our dyno. It was holding in the 550-587whp max range...barely. Then we added the 50 shot, and she say ENOUGH.
IMHO, one of the best bang for the buck clutches for the 400-500whp builds...750whp with RA/VRT correction factor.
Took me a few hours to review your invoice...but yes....you have an SS clutch line. 
Did i mention that I tested a Stage 4 Comp Clutch to failure on our dyno. It was holding in the 550-587whp max range...barely. Then we added the 50 shot, and she say ENOUGH.
IMHO, one of the best bang for the buck clutches for the 400-500whp builds...750whp with RA/VRT correction factor.

Did i mention that I tested a Stage 4 Comp Clutch to failure on our dyno. It was holding in the 550-587whp max range...barely. Then we added the 50 shot, and she say ENOUGH.
IMHO, one of the best bang for the buck clutches for the 400-500whp builds...750whp with RA/VRT correction factor.
This clutch/flywheel is noisy, or at least amplifies the cement mixer noises already present in the tranny. I get funny looks from people sometimes when pulling off the line. The chattering at idle isn't much worse than stock though.
So what's the verdict here, 'cause I'm in the same boat. I have a Vortech right around 380 to 400 whp (I assume on a DJ) and my clutch is starting to slip. But it doesn't make sense to change it for a clutch that is only good to 400 hp. If you upgrade to TT then you'll have to change again.
The real question is this: what clutch/flywheel combo will hold upto say 550 whp and is still tolerable to drive on a regular basis?
The real question is this: what clutch/flywheel combo will hold upto say 550 whp and is still tolerable to drive on a regular basis?
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