Did a boost pressure test, what is making this sound? *VID*
I'm wondering if malfunctioning of the EVAP solenoid is something to do with my Z smelling like fuel in the morning and my CJM twin fuel pumps screaming like a fat lady at the opera when it gets hot...
^ the car should never smell like fuel... check for leaks in your fuel system plumbing or excessive use of standard stainless braided fuel lines.
the twin pumps are typically pretty loud below a half tank but shouldnt be anything out of the ordinary
the twin pumps are typically pretty loud below a half tank but shouldnt be anything out of the ordinary
A simple answer is probably not enough to make doing anything about it worthwile.
It's doubtful that there is a big enough leak to really cause an issue. I just feel it is generally a good idea to make the system as boost leak free as possible. Also by looking at the system diagrams, it *may* be possible that a leak such as this could pressurize and damage the carbon canister or the fuel tank itself. Since there are many many cars running around FI and nothing I described has happened to this point, I'd say that it's very unlikely.
Technically, if you're running a MAS system, it is metered air that is not making it into the engine and could cause tuning inconsistancies. As I said before, it shouldn't cause an issue in the amount I can see flowing through that solenoid, unless it is getting blown completely open at some point. Something to keep in mind is any extra amount of work the compressor has to accomplish to provide the airflow at pressure causes the turbine to work harder and leads to efficiency losses in the turbocharger system.
It's often overlooked how cold side restriction or leakage effects turbine inlet pressure and volumetric efficiency overall.
It's doubtful that there is a big enough leak to really cause an issue. I just feel it is generally a good idea to make the system as boost leak free as possible. Also by looking at the system diagrams, it *may* be possible that a leak such as this could pressurize and damage the carbon canister or the fuel tank itself. Since there are many many cars running around FI and nothing I described has happened to this point, I'd say that it's very unlikely.
Technically, if you're running a MAS system, it is metered air that is not making it into the engine and could cause tuning inconsistancies. As I said before, it shouldn't cause an issue in the amount I can see flowing through that solenoid, unless it is getting blown completely open at some point. Something to keep in mind is any extra amount of work the compressor has to accomplish to provide the airflow at pressure causes the turbine to work harder and leads to efficiency losses in the turbocharger system.
It's often overlooked how cold side restriction or leakage effects turbine inlet pressure and volumetric efficiency overall.
I can confirm that this valve will in fact allow your gas tank to be pressurized if you go much above 10 psi of boost. Ask me how I know. I think a check valve would be a wise decision.
I saw your vid with the gas pouring out, if this is the case I'm surprised more aren't having this issue. Was your tank full when this happened?
About 7/8 full when I started, finished at about 3/4 tank or so.
It might also be related to the fact that my EVAP system is non-functioning (broken pin on my Haltech harness), so that once the pressure gets into the tank, the purge valve never opens to relieve it.
It might also be related to the fact that my EVAP system is non-functioning (broken pin on my Haltech harness), so that once the pressure gets into the tank, the purge valve never opens to relieve it.
It's not something that needs to be fixed with an additional check valve it's something that just needs to be fixed back to working condition. I've been up to 28psi without a single issue so when it's not broken it will function perfectly fine.
Or the valve is open trying to purge when there is boost pressure.
It's not something that needs to be fixed with an additional check valve it's something that just needs to be fixed back to working condition. I've been up to 28psi without a single issue so when it's not broken it will function perfectly fine.
It's not something that needs to be fixed with an additional check valve it's something that just needs to be fixed back to working condition. I've been up to 28psi without a single issue so when it's not broken it will function perfectly fine.
with 28psi of boost as well as many other built engine guys. Your valve has obviously failed.
if the purge valve when closed can let boost in that would be a problem. I have not experienced an issue... A one way check valve does not seem like it could hurt. At vacuum, I'm sure it would pull the fumes right out.
Last edited by rcdash; Jun 13, 2013 at 01:15 PM.
Sounds to me like the valve leaks under boost (10 psi and above according to who ever). I could see that happening. But it is a slow leak, It would take forever to pressurize the tank with a slow leak even if it is just about full. And the valve electrically opens under vacuum (some other conditions have to be met also). Is anybody going to be pushing over 10 psi for 15 minutes at a time? No, the problem with the guy and fuel pouring out the cap, he was pressurizing the tank and because the valve never was told to open (because of the broke pin) the slow leak kept adding up until it had to vent somewhere. I am a fan of the check valve in the evap line just in case the valve lets go and allows a big leak to the tank. It would not take long with a 3/8 hose with 20 psi and a full tank to actually see 20 pounds in the tank.
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