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Who's knocking....Oh nevermind that is my motor

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Old 04-20-2009, 05:20 AM
  #41  
Glex25
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Yep time to rebuild the block =0((
Old 04-20-2009, 05:31 AM
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djamps
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Ohh nooo!!!!
Old 04-20-2009, 05:33 AM
  #43  
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There is no doubt in my mind after seeing these pics that the bearing material has infiltrated every part of your motor. Looks like a full rebuild is in store.
Just check to see if the main bearings fried and whether or not the crank is still straight?
Then send the turbos out to be checked as well. PM sent.
Old 04-20-2009, 06:18 AM
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leeboyNY
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That sucks bro!! Good luck with repair.
Old 04-20-2009, 10:32 AM
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ADMAN
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Dayum
Old 04-20-2009, 11:37 AM
  #46  
Cass007
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I know that sight all too well. I hope that some part of the motor and turbos are still good or you will have to replace eveything just like I did. Best of luck on the re-build man.
Old 04-20-2009, 03:12 PM
  #47  
chopperman
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Alright well, Im guessing that I will need new Pistons. I have a spare longblock that I can get for $1000. Im planning on swaping out the rods and buying new pistons and cams and putting them on the new block.
Old 04-20-2009, 03:36 PM
  #48  
str8dum1
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as cass said, you might need a whole lot more than that
Old 04-20-2009, 04:35 PM
  #49  
chopperman
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who do you guys recomend to send the turbos too?
Old 04-20-2009, 05:11 PM
  #50  
j.arnaldo
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...scary...Good luck.
Old 04-20-2009, 07:18 PM
  #51  
35Z
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Default Greddy twin turbo's

Which Greddy turbos do you have? The older 18G's are likely more available than the more recent 20G's. Try contacting Sharif.
Old 04-20-2009, 07:25 PM
  #52  
chopperman
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I have the 18g's
Old 04-20-2009, 07:26 PM
  #53  
35Z
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Default Engine Re-build

I suggest checking the oil pick-up/oil pump/ bottom end for evidence of brass fillings/bent parts/heat damged parts before assuming the top-end is is ok and is re-buildable. I have "been their done that" spending minimum dollars only to find out that some little part that was overlooked in the re-build cause the engine to fail again!

Good luck!
Old 04-21-2009, 07:42 AM
  #54  
rrmedicx
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Turbos go to Forced Performance.
Rebuilding them to 18G's is like $1600.
To make them into 20G's is like $1800. (prices subject to change)
Old 04-21-2009, 07:47 AM
  #55  
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You may not need pistons. Have them checked before you start spending money. Maybe just a set of new rings.
If only 1 rod went bad (not sure yet), see if you can buy just 1 replacement and have them all weight balanced before re-installing. That might save some $$. Just a thought.
Have your cams checked out as well. Let me know if you need another set of stock cams. I have a set handy.
Old 04-21-2009, 06:52 PM
  #56  
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damn that sucks.

did u figure out what was the cause of the knock?
Old 04-21-2009, 07:00 PM
  #57  
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how was your oil level when you checked and found the metal? what about damage to your oil pan from the off-road?

sucks to hear.
Old 04-21-2009, 07:15 PM
  #58  
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Oil was full, actually before I left the tuner a couple days before, he said it was just a tad about full. Can that of cause it? The oil pan was fine after I went offroad, no damage what so ever. I will be taking about the longblock tomorrow after work. More pictures to come.
Old 04-22-2009, 03:02 AM
  #59  
Cass007
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Originally Posted by chopperman
who do you guys recomend to send the turbos too?
If you want to comparison shop on the turbo repairs here are the guys I have used:

Blouch Turbo, Inc.
1925 State Route 72 North
Lebanon, PA 17046
ph: 717-865-3276
fax: 717-865-6478

http://www.blouchturbo.com/contactus/

Ask for Mike

Be sure on disassembly that the bearing material did not score all the bearing surfaces throughout the motor, this is what happened in my case and ruined every part of the motor since all the surfaces had been machined when it was built and then reassembled a second time. Not enough material left on surfaces to make them smooth again. I hope this is not the case for you. Best of luck and keep us updated on your progress.
Old 04-22-2009, 09:02 AM
  #60  
Mr.Squeeze
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That suck man good luck on your rebuild.


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