Here is a video of my old setup (18G) vs Sharif on his old 20G setup. Sorry for the gay music, I had to swap audio to get the video to play youtube pulled it with the original song/edit...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGHxTYPbqLQ

 

I made over 600 RWHP on a Mustang dyno (609 actual, 603 weather corrected) with the twin Greddy 18g's on 93 octane with 17.5 psi of boost.

The timing was fairly conservative at 9-10 degrees between 3500 and 5500 rpm. I still had room to go, but didn't want to push it until we got a chance to tune with meth. Roger felt that if we wanted to push it to the bleeding edge (which he strongly recommended not to do since I run it on the track), we could have gotten to 630 RWHP on 93 octane. With meth injection on line, which would allow for more boost and advanced timing, we were hoping to get to between 700 and 750 RWHP. (I say "were" because now I am in the process of switching to water cooled turbos since I will be pushing the turbos very hard for long periods of time on road courses).

That said, the 20g's will give you more a bit more air flow, but there will be a bit of sacrifice with turbo lag.

One last thing, I am selling my Greddy TT kit with the 18G's and the Greddy Intercooler for a screaming deal. It only has about 1,000 miles on it and the first 500-600 miles were easy breakin. It also has Techline ceramic coating applied inside and out on the Exhaust manifolds and Turbo housings. Here is the link, which includes my 93 octane dynograph (before the ceramic coating was applied):

https://my350z.com/forum/turbos-nitr...st-system.html

 

Guess I am that 1%...

 

LOL-we can make it happen this summer, if I ever get off my a$$ and get my car back on the road.

 

Alberto - Have been anywhere from 14 second passes in a N/A Honda Civic to 9 second passes on my ZX10R and everything in between. I'm not expert my any means and I guess it's not my first rodeo either. Hell I'll be happy to click off a 10.9999999The highest HP car I've owned was a 500hp Cobra so I don't think this will be too much more to handle. My bike is also faster than a local 600whp Z so I think I'll be ok.

The reason I was hesitant to go with the 20g also is I won't be sleeving the motor initially and from what I've read anything past 650whp on a stock-sleeve engine is dangerous territory. I've considered doing cams with the build, but I don't plan on putting the engine together myself, installing it back in the car with the turbo kit will be what I am doing.

psychoballistic - Looking into the ACT 6 puck clutch and StreetLite Flywheel. I'm sure I will blow the transmission at some point but we will cross that road when we get to it. Stock rear end gear ratio too.

Thanks for all the input, keep it coming

 

Cool vid...Have you run the 1/4 w/ your latest setup ?.....

 

A couple of years ago, the general consensus was to sleeve high hp motors. I think that has changed. A number of people have had problems with the aftermarket sleeves. The aluminum block and sleeves expand at different rates when heated, and sometimes the sleaves move a bit, which is not good and can lead to a number of problems. Perhaps if your machinist heats the block and sleeves up to operating temperature before pressing the sleeves into the block it will help, but I'm not a machinist so this is just a SWAG (scientific wild @ss guess) on my part. Also, Darton, who makes the sleeves people generally use, offers services to install the sleeves. Maybe this is the way to go.

I'm not sure how Nissan got around this issue with the stock sleeves, but whatever they did to the stock sleeves seems to work. XKR had over 800 RWHP on his last build on a motor with stock sleeves, and I don't beleive he had any problems. Now he is going for over 1000 RWHP with a 4.0 L stroker, and I think this still uses the stock sleeves.

Also, the motors with the Darton sleeves run hotter. If you are only using this for street or 1/4 mi. use, it may not be a problem. If, however, you are planning or road racing the car, you're probably better off not sleeving the motor.

One last thing, I would recommend a Carbonetics or Exedy twin or tripple disk clutch. A single disk clutch that is strong enough to hold 650 RWHP will most likely have an engagement that is not going to be street friendly (i.e. almost like a switch, off and then on). I have a Carbonetics tripple disk. It is very smooth and very strong. Much, much smoother and stronger than the Clutchmasters twin disk I started with (which I fried the first time I launched at 3500 rpm).

I hope this helps.

 

Bert get off your *** and call me.........we can use my shop and lifts to get the car ready for spring/summer.You know where to find me.

 

Ohh thats tempting.

I stopped by on Saturday-need a 12mm hex key for the bikes suspension, talked to one of the techs (Alton I think? young white guy) told me you had all week off. You gotta stop by the house!!!!

 

Yea i was on vacation last week and when the weather finally gets better ill def stop by.

 

Best of luck OP, I tried this same exact project and lets just say its not as simple as it seems. +1 on a Carbonetics clutch (at least the dual disc). At your goal HP I would definately consider swapping to the 3.3 rear diff as well.

Doing everything at once will cut down on some of the labor costs, but can make tracking down issues a bit harder. Doing it in steps will allow you to get things sorted out as you add pieces to your build.

If I had it to do over again, I would consider just sitting down with your tuner (Sharif in this case) and going over all the components and costs involved and then drop off your car and back up a dumptruck full of money at Forged.... wait 8-10 weeks and pick up your monster. Then again, if I had to do it over with from the start I may have just stuck with my TN single and paid off my and the wife's cars and bought a new Range Rover Sport.