Haltech problem
I have a problem with my haltech platinum and was wondering how other users got around the problem.
I have a TT set up (vq35 de) and the car needs to idle around 750 but the stock ecu is telling it to idle at 600 so the car is trying to stall at lights or in traffic. there is no idle control on the haltech system so what did you all do to get around this problem.
I have a TT set up (vq35 de) and the car needs to idle around 750 but the stock ecu is telling it to idle at 600 so the car is trying to stall at lights or in traffic. there is no idle control on the haltech system so what did you all do to get around this problem.
Cipher or any competent mechanic cause their diagnostic tool which should have Consult II in it and be able to raise your idle.
I borrowed my mechanics Launch X431 Diagnostic tool and was able to lower my Idle.
I had my ECU flashed and had the idle raised to 750 forgetting that I had raised it
with the Cipher previously and had to back it back down.
I borrowed my mechanics Launch X431 Diagnostic tool and was able to lower my Idle.
I had my ECU flashed and had the idle raised to 750 forgetting that I had raised it
with the Cipher previously and had to back it back down.
I believe 600-700 is stock idle. If you don't have upgraded cams, you should be fine with that. Are your AFRs ok? As mentioned, to raise the idle, you will need to reflash, and I think Hal offers a Haltech customized service in this regard. PM HAL@IP.
I have 2003 g35, i have HKS cams, cosworth heads, cosworth plenum, cosworth internals, APS TT, APS extreme fuel kit, HKS boost controller. The car made 550 at the wheels on a low boost.
So everything is fine and the car runs superb apart from my tuner cant get the idle speed to run smoothly. I am worried because he said next week he will make some alteration to the throttle body which should solve the problem but i have gone through the large haltech thread and found nobody having to do this yet.
I am in the UK and we have only just started using this system, so even though my tuner is one of the best where i live it is a new system for him and maybe he missed something??
Would my setup need a reflash and if so what will the reflash achieve ?
Take off the throttle body and drill at 1/16 inch hole in the plate. This will raise up your idle and make it more stable.
Also, a lot of its in the tune. It could be fixed with the right numbers in it.
Make sure he puts "C" in the timing at idle so it copies through.
Also, a lot of its in the tune. It could be fixed with the right numbers in it.
Make sure he puts "C" in the timing at idle so it copies through.
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hmmm soon my Z goes in for the work to be done by the same tuner you have used (TDI I believe), although I won't have cams installed (but full internal job), so hopefully I won't have the idling problem you seem to have.
I also have a couple maps from Sharif so that Mark & Co. can have a starting point too. I believe Sharif (where I did all my buying from, effectively) will be happy to help if they have any problems. Why don't you tell them to try and contact Hal too?
I also have a couple maps from Sharif so that Mark & Co. can have a starting point too. I believe Sharif (where I did all my buying from, effectively) will be happy to help if they have any problems. Why don't you tell them to try and contact Hal too?
Last edited by TheMinel; May 1, 2009 at 11:14 AM.
If you have a perfect AFR on your wideband at idle and have copy through timing as Jeremy mentioned above, then I don't know anything else to try other than raising the idle (which may be necessary depending on cam specs). Jim Wolf also diagrammed a similar vacuum hose re-routing to allow a "leak" similar to the effect of drilling the throttle body (except it is reversible). I have my idle set at 800 with JWT S2 cams and no issues. Sharif did spend quite a bit of time dialing in all the cells for a smooth idle. I had one of the first Haltechs with beta sofware and when we tried to tune without copy through timing ("C" in the cells for idle) it was really tough to get it stable.
Last edited by rcdash; May 1, 2009 at 11:15 AM.
If you have a perfect AFR on your wideband at idle and have copy through timing as Jeremy mentioned above, then I don't know anything else to try other than raising the idle (which may be necessary depending on cam specs). Jim Wolf also diagrammed a similar vacuum hose re-routing to allow a "leak" similar to the effect of drilling the throttle body (except it is reversible). I have my idle set at 800 with JWT S2 cams and no issues. Sharif did spend quite a bit of time dialing in all the cells for a smooth idle. I had one of the first Haltechs with beta sofware and when we tried to tune without copy through timing ("C" in the cells for idle) it was really tough to get it stable.
That is correct. I use Osiris reflash to change the idle. You may be able to get a stable idle at 600 or even less by adjusting AFR and using copy through timing. If you're not able to, then you need to raise the idle, either through one of the mods mentioned, or a reflash.
hmmm soon my Z goes in for the work to be done by the same tuner you have used (TDI I believe), although I won't have cams installed (but full internal job), so hopefully I won't have the idling problem you seem to have.
I also have a couple maps from Sharif so that Mark & Co. can have a starting point too. I believe Sharif (where I did all my buying from, effectively) will be happy to help if they have any problems. Why don't you tell them to try and contact Hal too?
I also have a couple maps from Sharif so that Mark & Co. can have a starting point too. I believe Sharif (where I did all my buying from, effectively) will be happy to help if they have any problems. Why don't you tell them to try and contact Hal too?
Hi, yes i am using TDI's, as you know they are a good company, not cheap but good none the less.
Why are you using Marks workshop in thurrock, i thought they had a northern branch seeing as your from Manchester.
They have done a great job rebuilding my car and you will have no regrets. The cosworth heads and plenum have changed the car completely, not so much in RWHP as i told them to keep it around 500 (sensible for road driving
) but it has improved the torque lines which wern't that great on the origional APS TT setup.Are you having the Haltech system ?
BTW i have used sharif for my TT kit , carbonetics triple clutch,
and my ARC catch can, very nice fella but i kind of feel akward keep firing qestions at him as he hasn't had the benefit from doing the work on my car. However if he looks in on this thread and wants to comment that would be great
Last edited by ukgt; May 1, 2009 at 11:34 AM.
That is correct. I use Osiris reflash to change the idle. You may be able to get a stable idle at 600 or even less by adjusting AFR and using copy through timing. If you're not able to, then you need to raise the idle, either through one of the mods mentioned, or a reflash.
Hi, yes i am using TDI's, as you know they are a good company, not cheap but good none the less.
Why are you using Marks workshop in thurrock, i thought they had a northern branch seeing as your from Manchester.
They have done a great job rebuilding my car and you will have no regrets. The cosworth heads and plenum have changed the car completely, not so much in RWHP as i told them to keep it around 500 (sensible for road driving
) but it has improved the torque lines which wern't that great on the origional APS TT setup.
Are you having the Haltech system ?
BTW i have used sharif for my TT kit , carbonetics triple clutch,
and my ARC catch can, very nice fella but i kind of feel akward keep firing qestions at him as he hasn't had the benefit from doing the work on my car. However if he looks in on this thread and wants to comment that would be great
Why are you using Marks workshop in thurrock, i thought they had a northern branch seeing as your from Manchester.
They have done a great job rebuilding my car and you will have no regrets. The cosworth heads and plenum have changed the car completely, not so much in RWHP as i told them to keep it around 500 (sensible for road driving
) but it has improved the torque lines which wern't that great on the origional APS TT setup.Are you having the Haltech system ?
BTW i have used sharif for my TT kit , carbonetics triple clutch,
and my ARC catch can, very nice fella but i kind of feel akward keep firing qestions at him as he hasn't had the benefit from doing the work on my car. However if he looks in on this thread and wants to comment that would be great

TDI North are effectively a separate company, and although they are "partners" with Mark's, they are a separate entity, outsource their engine work and don't think they have worked on a VQ to date. So it's a no

My build is different from yours, no cams, heads and only a plenum spacer for now, also will use a PE tt kit, but yes will have a Haltech too.
I've spent $15,000 with Sharif, so hope I'll be entitled to ask as many questions as needed, really

I wanted one shop to do all the work, instead of one doing the engine, one assembling, one sourcing the parts etc so I couldn't get a US shop to do the labour...
Booked in for 23rd May
Last edited by TheMinel; May 1, 2009 at 12:09 PM.
TDI North are effectively a separate company, and although they are "partners" with Mark's, they are a separate entity, outsource their engine work and don't think they have worked on a VQ to date. So it's a no 
My build is different from yours, no cams, heads and only a plenum spacer for now, also will use a PE tt kit, but yes will have a Haltech too.
I've spent $15,000 with Sharif, so hope I'll be entitled to ask as many questions as needed, really
I wanted one shop to do all the work, instead of one doing the engine, one assembling, one sourcing the parts etc so I couldn't get a US shop to do the labour...
Booked in for 23rd May
also aiming for ~500 hp and seriously thinking about the Racelogic Traction control

My build is different from yours, no cams, heads and only a plenum spacer for now, also will use a PE tt kit, but yes will have a Haltech too.
I've spent $15,000 with Sharif, so hope I'll be entitled to ask as many questions as needed, really

I wanted one shop to do all the work, instead of one doing the engine, one assembling, one sourcing the parts etc so I couldn't get a US shop to do the labour...
Booked in for 23rd May
The cleanest way to fix this is with a re-flash. Sam at GTM re-flashed my ECU with the UpRev Osiris software and it worked great. Forged Performance and other other tuners on this forum also have the software. You can even get a re-flash directly from UpRev.
You also can buy the software and cable yourself directly from UpRev and do it yourself, but don't try this unless you know what you are doing. Call or e-mail Rich at UpRev. He is on the forum and you can get his contact information with a simple search for user name "UpRev".
You also can buy the software and cable yourself directly from UpRev and do it yourself, but don't try this unless you know what you are doing. Call or e-mail Rich at UpRev. He is on the forum and you can get his contact information with a simple search for user name "UpRev".
Last edited by ttg35fort; May 1, 2009 at 06:52 PM.
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