Day 1:
Radio wouldn't turn on; had to replace a blown fuse

Day 2:
HKS EVC6 boost controller won't turn on, but the car still boosted fine, so the UTEC wasn't an issue.. yet.

A week later:
Drove the Z to a car show over an hour away. It drove/boosted fine, but when I got off the final exit, it couldn't idle without shutting off.

After the show:
Car has a tough time starting. I hear the starter, but the car doesn't crank. Eventually it cranks after three tries and I proceed to drive home.

On the way home:
NO BOOST! The Z was running completely NA (Maybe the UTEC wasn't getting power?). I drove home, making sure I didn't go over 4k rpms, just in case.

When I got home:
I parked the car and left it alone for an hour. I later tried starting it again and there was no use… All I hear is a buzzing noise, but the car won't crank.

So at this point my HKS EVC6 doesn't turn on, the car doesn't boost, and now it won't even crank...

WTF IS GOING ON!!!???

A few people are coming to look at the car this week. What should they be looking for?

 

whats the battery voltage?

sounds like a dead or dying battery... bad ground or could also be the Crank or Camshaft POS Sensors

 

Man, you need to just sell the car. You got way to many problems.

Good luck on the fix though, hopefully its something simple.

 

When I start having your type of problems, then maybe I'll sell the car.

 

First thing I'll be doing today is buying a new battery before these guys come down to check it out. Any recommendations?

 

Optima red top.




Hope you get those little electrical gremlins out of there.

 

depends on if you have a system or not.. personally if you don't have anything crazy i would go with a regular autozone 3yr warranty battery.. if you have a good audio system then a yellow top

 

I've always had really good luck with the nissan OEM battery. I got over five years on the orginal battery before I replaced it.

If you have an aftermarket audio system maybe upgrade.

Edit: I have not had good luck with NAPA batteries, FWIW.

 

You got some short circuits. Who did the stereo and boost controller wiring?

 

Other than the 250 codes, my cars all set.

 

I've got a JL Audio stealth box/amp and a Kenwood DNX8120, so nothing major. I'm thinking autozone may have what I need, though I've never purchased a battery from them.

Sound system was installed by a friend of mine and the boost controller/utec was done by good 'ole Jeremy.

Everything was done a year ago and worked perfectly up until this point.

 

Yeah the boost controller is one power wire tapped into the fuse box. The utec is plug and play so its probably not either of those.


I would look into the car stereo side of things. Good luck man.

 

Which fuse did you have to replace? This might be insigthful to lead to your problem.

 

+1, the first blown fuse is the key. It blew for a reason.

 

get a JCI battery....Nissan OEM batteries now are a JCI battery and so is Interstate. Ask how many returns they have on Optima batteries before you consider buying one.

 

why would the stereo system or short circuits cause this?

Same day, after finally getting the Z to start:
Car wouldn't boost… f*ck…I drove the car home, parked it, tried starting it an hour later and now it doesn’t start at all… I hear the starter, but it's not catching the flywheel…

 

what does it sound like when you try to start the car? loud revving sort of noise? is the car turning at all?

 

The best way I could describe it is a buzzing noise, which I think is the starter.

All my interior lights, gauges, etc. turn on, I push down on the clutch, turn the key, and the car just buzzes. No crank, no nothing.

 

or crank sensor

 

what turbo kit do you have? if the crank sensor wires are burnt through or something like that, it will prolly blow a fuse every time you try to start it.