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HKS TT Gt2871r will not go pass 8psi :(

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Old 06-06-2009, 08:53 PM
  #21  
boostintt
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do i have to change the actuators or can i just put a different stronger spring in the stock actuators?
Old 06-07-2009, 05:00 AM
  #22  
Zivman
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Originally Posted by boostintt
do i have to change the actuators or can i just put a different stronger spring in the stock actuators?
you could if the supplied actuators allow you to.... but 99% chance they don't. that is why you will need to change them out for a set of forge
Old 06-07-2009, 06:05 AM
  #23  
coachk
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Ziv....On my APS TT built motor I have the Forge Actuators with the red springs. Would he be able to use the same ones?
Old 06-07-2009, 06:27 AM
  #24  
Zivman
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Originally Posted by coachk
Ziv....On my APS TT built motor I have the Forge Actuators with the red springs. Would he be able to use the same ones?
I think I have come across in my posts as being more informed than I really am about the specifics of the HKS kit.

I merely googled it and took a look at pics. I really don't know if the actuators would work for him. My initial response would be, I think they would work, but that said, I really don't know. He would need to pull the existing actuators and match them up if he can't find someone who knows specifically what actuators would be compatible.

Like I said, I would have sharif take care of this for him.
Old 06-07-2009, 07:19 AM
  #25  
k6750gsxr
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Just for my own record aren't those internal acuators set for 4 psi stock ?
Old 06-07-2009, 11:39 AM
  #26  
Sharif@Forged
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Originally Posted by boostintt
omg!!! i really dont wana have to pull the motor out just to change actuators oh well... i guess this is what happens when you go built/turbo
This is what happens, when someone tries to sell you a piece meal TT setup, without disclosing what the HKS actuator is capable of it.

I was sorry to be the bearer of the bad news. Forge actuators will raise the boost, but as discussed, you will most likely need to create a new bracket, and modify the rod. And doing all these things will be much easier if you drop the motor.

If it was a straight actuator swap, ala APS, then the engine doesnt need to come out.
Old 06-07-2009, 11:40 AM
  #27  
Sharif@Forged
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Originally Posted by k6750gsxr
Just for my own record aren't those internal acuators set for 4 psi stock ?
Yes they are. The HKS TT setup kit comes with 4-5psi base boost pressure.
Old 06-07-2009, 08:22 PM
  #28  
rcdash
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Sharif, since this is an internal wastegate and the springs are really weak, an alternative would be to attempt to further reduce exhaust backpressure? Might get a bit more boost out of it?

Boostintt, theoretically with a boost controller you should be able to continue to raise boost as long as you can evacuate the pressure in the manifolds well enough that it doesn't overcome the wastegate spring. 4 psi is pretty weak though. I'd listen to Sharif's recommendation to drop the motor and get it done right if you want to change it out - the wastegates are not something you want malfunctioning!
Old 06-07-2009, 08:37 PM
  #29  
tecni
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We installed a boost controller on his car and cranked it to the max and it still maxed out at 8psi...



Originally Posted by rcdash
Sharif, since this is an internal wastegate and the springs are really weak, an alternative would be to attempt to further reduce exhaust backpressure? Might get a bit more boost out of it?

Boostintt, theoretically with a boost controller you should be able to continue to raise boost as long as you can evacuate the pressure in the manifolds well enough that it doesn't overcome the wastegate spring. 4 psi is pretty weak though. I'd listen to Sharif's recommendation to drop the motor and get it done right if you want to change it out - the wastegates are not something you want malfunctioning!
Old 06-08-2009, 12:42 PM
  #30  
rcdash
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Originally Posted by tecni
We installed a boost controller on his car and cranked it to the max and it still maxed out at 8psi...
Then it's backpressure in the exhaust manifolds (vs. the downpipes) pushing the wastegates open. Only one sure way to fix it. Well you could weld it and use an external WG also. So 2 ways.
Old 06-08-2009, 07:24 PM
  #31  
Zivman
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Then it's backpressure in the exhaust manifolds (vs. the downpipes) pushing the wastegates open. Only one sure way to fix it. Well you could weld it and use an external WG also. So 2 ways.
or just get an acuator with a stronger spring and call it a day
Old 06-08-2009, 10:52 PM
  #32  
bsurdam
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^ thats exactly what i would do see if that helps which it more than likely should. if for some odd reason that doesnt work then do the molding/welding of external wastegates.
Old 06-08-2009, 11:34 PM
  #33  
boostintt
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the plan is to get stronger actuators to allow more boost. I just need to know which ones to use thats all. and like i said b4, the pass side actuators has a bracket and bolts on to the motor mount. I have to pull these out and make sure i'll be able to get the new ones in place. 19psi here i come!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 06-11-2009, 05:35 PM
  #34  
mx594
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The actuator rods are adjustable via threaded turnbuckles correct? Can't you increase the spring preload by tightening (shortening) the actuator rods? I had this exact problem on my old GReddy turbocharged Miata...tightening the actuator rod allowed me to run 15 psi (with a boost controller of course) and the wastegate was a 6psi actuator. It might be worth a try, it would save you some money.
Old 06-12-2009, 03:25 AM
  #35  
Zivman
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Originally Posted by mx594
The actuator rods are adjustable via threaded turnbuckles correct? Can't you increase the spring preload by tightening (shortening) the actuator rods? I had this exact problem on my old GReddy turbocharged Miata...tightening the actuator rod allowed me to run 15 psi (with a boost controller of course) and the wastegate was a 6psi actuator. It might be worth a try, it would save you some money.
it will help, but won't really make much of a difference
Old 06-12-2009, 01:17 PM
  #36  
boostintt
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Originally Posted by mx594
The actuator rods are adjustable via threaded turnbuckles correct? Can't you increase the spring preload by tightening (shortening) the actuator rods? I had this exact problem on my old GReddy turbocharged Miata...tightening the actuator rod allowed me to run 15 psi (with a boost controller of course) and the wastegate was a 6psi actuator. It might be worth a try, it would save you some money.
good point! but i think im just gonna buy the stronger actuators so i can run 19psi
Old 06-12-2009, 02:20 PM
  #37  
tgunsg35
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Do you really need to run 19 psi? I would think 16 psi would do you justices.........
Old 06-12-2009, 03:45 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by tgunsg35
Do you really need to run 19 psi? I would think 16 psi would do you justices.........
your right!!! but ill prolly tune it to 18-20psi and run low boost dd at 14-16.... all depends on how far sharif says its safe!!

plus my heads are 100% stock... so i dont know how far i can push it..
Old 06-12-2009, 03:52 PM
  #39  
03threefiftyz
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DD at 14-16 is pretty unnecessary......should make close to 500 on 12 which is more than your street tires will be able to effectively take. Not to mention that 500 on DD is close to 550 on a dynojet.
Old 06-12-2009, 05:44 PM
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If you want a 16 psi map I hope you have a haltech or fcon. Unfortunatley if you have the utec there is a good change you will only be tuned to 14psi anything higher would be unsafe with out a stand alone. Another thing I like to add is Sharif is one of the best tuners in the country so what ever he decide trust me you will be more then happy. I know I was.


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