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It depends on your budget - a typical utec customer is not a typical haltech customer, as one is more than double the price of the other.
The Haltech has alot more features (cam timing, ability to convert to MAP), dual channe wideband possibility- whether your setup needs those features or not becomes the most important question, more adjustment points
That being said, the UTEC is a great value/dollar unit, so it will ultimately come down to your proposed setup, and your budget, and the preference of your tuner
The Haltech has alot more features (cam timing, ability to convert to MAP), dual channe wideband possibility- whether your setup needs those features or not becomes the most important question, more adjustment points
That being said, the UTEC is a great value/dollar unit, so it will ultimately come down to your proposed setup, and your budget, and the preference of your tuner
no transition with the fcon.... i would assume the haltech too.. but i've never drove a haltech car
My UTEC has zero transition going into boost, feels stock. There is only a slight blip (feels like a misfire) coming back out of boost > 4psi or so that we were unable to get rid of. I would be pretty annoyed if there was a blip going INTO boost every time, definitely enough to scrap the UTEC.
There is a transition that occurs with any ecu that employs both a MAF and MAP. The seamlesness of that transition is all in the hands of the person punching the keys.
Same goes for a Haltech, F Con, or any other ecu - how smooth the car behaves in off boost, and transition phases, cold start, hot start, etc etc is all in the hands of the tuner, and their skill level, attention to detail, and knowledge. "Tuning" is a very broadly used term that is often not really employed - it's akin to "Import Model", or "Track Use".
Same goes for a Haltech, F Con, or any other ecu - how smooth the car behaves in off boost, and transition phases, cold start, hot start, etc etc is all in the hands of the tuner, and their skill level, attention to detail, and knowledge. "Tuning" is a very broadly used term that is often not really employed - it's akin to "Import Model", or "Track Use".
I changed so many parts and everything else so i can't really see exactly what the Haltech did for me. All I know is that i like it now and it did not throw a code for almost 2,000 miles. UTEC threw them almost every time the monitors could reset
I had a bad transition at first which was pretty much smoothed out after the UTEC retune. There were issues with 'surging'...that is the only way I can describe it. It was because of this, my future plans, and the hot starts that i decided to switch (plus the fact I get a big raise days before the FT appointment). It was not over boost and I don't think it was the tune honestly, it felt like the UTEC 'fell asleep' sometimes then kicked back to life. Haltech is smooth all over, but I can still feel the slight jerk as I let off and the fueling switches closed to open, or maybe vice versa. It's not bad enough to be considered a problem to me.
I changed so many parts and everything else so i can't really see exactly what the Haltech did for me. All I know is that i like it now and it did not throw a code for almost 2,000 miles. UTEC threw them almost every time the monitors could reset
I changed so many parts and everything else so i can't really see exactly what the Haltech did for me. All I know is that i like it now and it did not throw a code for almost 2,000 miles. UTEC threw them almost every time the monitors could reset
[QUOTE=Z1 Performance;7508393]There is a transition that occurs with any ecu that employs both a MAF and MAP. The seamlesness of that transition is all in the hands of the person punching the keys.
Gotcha thx
Gotcha thx
That is exactly a tuning issue, along with the hot start issue ^
Most guys just start out with a given injector scaling figure in the UTEC and never bother to try tweaking it under various conditions. This is a perfect example of why a full tune is not merely done on a dyno
I'll give you guys a perfect example of what I mean. When I went to Jermaine at TXS for my last tune, it was merely to give everything a once over as I had removed my DLI, and changed plugs to a different temperature. Car drove fine, no codes, no issues at all, I just wanted to be on the safe side given the price of the engine inside. My car is NA as well, so certainly alot less time consuming to tune vs a boosted setup. We spent 3 hours on the dyno, let the car fully cool down, then another 30 minutes driving around in both stop and go and highway driving....again, this is on a car that already was tuned (by Jermaine previously as well). I've watched cars get "tooned" (Jermaines phrase) at many other shops over the years - Many simply strap the car down, do a bunch of pulls, and then call it a day and charge you. The good guys out there will spend the time with you and make you drive the car afterwards to ensure it runs as it should, and make corrections and adjustment accordingly. Some tweaking due to weather changes, etc may be necessary at a certain point, all depends on the setup, but again, these are easily done most times. A true properly tuned car should not have any hiccups at any rpm point, should not studder, should not buck, it should be totally seamless at any rpm point, any load point, any transition point from boost to non boost etc.
Most guys just start out with a given injector scaling figure in the UTEC and never bother to try tweaking it under various conditions. This is a perfect example of why a full tune is not merely done on a dyno
I'll give you guys a perfect example of what I mean. When I went to Jermaine at TXS for my last tune, it was merely to give everything a once over as I had removed my DLI, and changed plugs to a different temperature. Car drove fine, no codes, no issues at all, I just wanted to be on the safe side given the price of the engine inside. My car is NA as well, so certainly alot less time consuming to tune vs a boosted setup. We spent 3 hours on the dyno, let the car fully cool down, then another 30 minutes driving around in both stop and go and highway driving....again, this is on a car that already was tuned (by Jermaine previously as well). I've watched cars get "tooned" (Jermaines phrase) at many other shops over the years - Many simply strap the car down, do a bunch of pulls, and then call it a day and charge you. The good guys out there will spend the time with you and make you drive the car afterwards to ensure it runs as it should, and make corrections and adjustment accordingly. Some tweaking due to weather changes, etc may be necessary at a certain point, all depends on the setup, but again, these are easily done most times. A true properly tuned car should not have any hiccups at any rpm point, should not studder, should not buck, it should be totally seamless at any rpm point, any load point, any transition point from boost to non boost etc.
That is exactly a tuning issue, along with the hot start issue ^
Most guys just start out with a given injector scaling figure in the UTEC and never bother to try tweaking it under various conditions. This is a perfect example of why a full tune is not merely done on a dyno
I'll give you guys a perfect example of what I mean. When I went to Jermaine at TXS for my last tune, it was merely to give everything a once over as I had removed my DLI, and changed plugs to a different temperature. Car drove fine, no codes, no issues at all, I just wanted to be on the safe side given the price of the engine inside. My car is NA as well, so certainly alot less time consuming to tune vs a boosted setup. We spent 3 hours on the dyno, let the car fully cool down, then another 30 minutes driving around in both stop and go and highway driving....again, this is on a car that already was tuned (by Jermaine previously as well). I've watched cars get "tooned" (Jermaines phrase) at many other shops over the years - Many simply strap the car down, do a bunch of pulls, and then call it a day and charge you. The good guys out there will spend the time with you and make you drive the car afterwards to ensure it runs as it should, and make corrections and adjustment accordingly. Some tweaking due to weather changes, etc may be necessary at a certain point, all depends on the setup, but again, these are easily done most times. A true properly tuned car should not have any hiccups at any rpm point, should not studder, should not buck, it should be totally seamless at any rpm point, any load point, any transition point from boost to non boost etc.
Most guys just start out with a given injector scaling figure in the UTEC and never bother to try tweaking it under various conditions. This is a perfect example of why a full tune is not merely done on a dyno
I'll give you guys a perfect example of what I mean. When I went to Jermaine at TXS for my last tune, it was merely to give everything a once over as I had removed my DLI, and changed plugs to a different temperature. Car drove fine, no codes, no issues at all, I just wanted to be on the safe side given the price of the engine inside. My car is NA as well, so certainly alot less time consuming to tune vs a boosted setup. We spent 3 hours on the dyno, let the car fully cool down, then another 30 minutes driving around in both stop and go and highway driving....again, this is on a car that already was tuned (by Jermaine previously as well). I've watched cars get "tooned" (Jermaines phrase) at many other shops over the years - Many simply strap the car down, do a bunch of pulls, and then call it a day and charge you. The good guys out there will spend the time with you and make you drive the car afterwards to ensure it runs as it should, and make corrections and adjustment accordingly. Some tweaking due to weather changes, etc may be necessary at a certain point, all depends on the setup, but again, these are easily done most times. A true properly tuned car should not have any hiccups at any rpm point, should not studder, should not buck, it should be totally seamless at any rpm point, any load point, any transition point from boost to non boost etc.
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From: under the hood
That is exactly a tuning issue, along with the hot start issue ^
Most guys just start out with a given injector scaling figure in the UTEC and never bother to try tweaking it under various conditions. This is a perfect example of why a full tune is not merely done on a dyno
I'll give you guys a perfect example of what I mean. When I went to Jermaine at TXS for my last tune, it was merely to give everything a once over as I had removed my DLI, and changed plugs to a different temperature. Car drove fine, no codes, no issues at all, I just wanted to be on the safe side given the price of the engine inside. My car is NA as well, so certainly alot less time consuming to tune vs a boosted setup. We spent 3 hours on the dyno, let the car fully cool down, then another 30 minutes driving around in both stop and go and highway driving....again, this is on a car that already was tuned (by Jermaine previously as well). I've watched cars get "tooned" (Jermaines phrase) at many other shops over the years - Many simply strap the car down, do a bunch of pulls, and then call it a day and charge you. The good guys out there will spend the time with you and make you drive the car afterwards to ensure it runs as it should, and make corrections and adjustment accordingly. Some tweaking due to weather changes, etc may be necessary at a certain point, all depends on the setup, but again, these are easily done most times. A true properly tuned car should not have any hiccups at any rpm point, should not studder, should not buck, it should be totally seamless at any rpm point, any load point, any transition point from boost to non boost etc.
Most guys just start out with a given injector scaling figure in the UTEC and never bother to try tweaking it under various conditions. This is a perfect example of why a full tune is not merely done on a dyno
I'll give you guys a perfect example of what I mean. When I went to Jermaine at TXS for my last tune, it was merely to give everything a once over as I had removed my DLI, and changed plugs to a different temperature. Car drove fine, no codes, no issues at all, I just wanted to be on the safe side given the price of the engine inside. My car is NA as well, so certainly alot less time consuming to tune vs a boosted setup. We spent 3 hours on the dyno, let the car fully cool down, then another 30 minutes driving around in both stop and go and highway driving....again, this is on a car that already was tuned (by Jermaine previously as well). I've watched cars get "tooned" (Jermaines phrase) at many other shops over the years - Many simply strap the car down, do a bunch of pulls, and then call it a day and charge you. The good guys out there will spend the time with you and make you drive the car afterwards to ensure it runs as it should, and make corrections and adjustment accordingly. Some tweaking due to weather changes, etc may be necessary at a certain point, all depends on the setup, but again, these are easily done most times. A true properly tuned car should not have any hiccups at any rpm point, should not studder, should not buck, it should be totally seamless at any rpm point, any load point, any transition point from boost to non boost etc.
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From: under the hood
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