My APS TT G35 build is almost complete...
08-09-2009, 05:42 AM
#22
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just an update...the parts didnt come in in time to install them before my tuner went on vacation. so they finished installing them thursday and friday and will put in on the dyno and set a base tune on monday, thats when ill get the car back and post pics. everything is wired up though. the autometer Nexus guages match PERFECTLY with the stock ones. and the boost controller is mounted on my ashtray door. the shop did an awesome job. everything is very clean. i cant wait to get this baby back and post up pics and numbers. unfortunately ill have to wait till at least monday after next to get real fully tuned dyno numbers. but for sure ill keep this thread updated. cant wait.
08-09-2009, 05:40 PM
#23
$2500 for turbo kit install and tuning
$350-450 for a clutch install
$60-80 for Boost controller (Not familiar with EVC6 but my Haltech EBC was real simple)
$85 for Exhaust install (I let Meineke do my exhaust install since I do not have a lift)
$125-$175 for Gauge installation depending on which ones you installing
As far as the cutout in the Radiator Support that is normal on the G35
$350-450 for a clutch install
$60-80 for Boost controller (Not familiar with EVC6 but my Haltech EBC was real simple)
$85 for Exhaust install (I let Meineke do my exhaust install since I do not have a lift)
$125-$175 for Gauge installation depending on which ones you installing
As far as the cutout in the Radiator Support that is normal on the G35
I installed the clutch for just $180 (and my friends say it was an expensive shop) and dropped the car today to install the TT kit and it would be $900.to install the kit
Last edited by midz350; 08-09-2009 at 05:44 PM.
08-10-2009, 04:49 PM
#24
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soooo.....STILL didnt get my car back today :/
the tuner/owner is out of town, but they were going to get a base tune going and give it back so i have my car at least until my tuner gets back from vacation and he can do a serious tune on it. obv i am going to drive carefully and not at WOT.
well i guess there was a plug issue. they said one of the iridium NGK plugs they got was bad. they put the stock ones back in to diagnose and sure enough they were fine. so they are waiting on that.
when i got there they were messing with the idle. it had a VERY rough and rich idle and would die very easily. they said it was cause of my upgraded 660cc DW injectors. basically he said that the UTEC doesnt have a quick and easy way to just up the injectors from the stock size and they had to go in and pull fuel manually for the entire RPM range. ive never tuned ANY car much less this one, so i said that sounds right i guess. so theyre gonna tune it tomorro with a drivable tune and give me the keys. hopefully. **** i am getting so impatient its been like 2 weeks :/
the tuner/owner is out of town, but they were going to get a base tune going and give it back so i have my car at least until my tuner gets back from vacation and he can do a serious tune on it. obv i am going to drive carefully and not at WOT.
well i guess there was a plug issue. they said one of the iridium NGK plugs they got was bad. they put the stock ones back in to diagnose and sure enough they were fine. so they are waiting on that.
when i got there they were messing with the idle. it had a VERY rough and rich idle and would die very easily. they said it was cause of my upgraded 660cc DW injectors. basically he said that the UTEC doesnt have a quick and easy way to just up the injectors from the stock size and they had to go in and pull fuel manually for the entire RPM range. ive never tuned ANY car much less this one, so i said that sounds right i guess. so theyre gonna tune it tomorro with a drivable tune and give me the keys. hopefully. **** i am getting so impatient its been like 2 weeks :/
08-10-2009, 06:22 PM
#26
find a new tuner, as that is not right. it takes just seconds to get a mechanically sound car to idle correctly with the UTEC. You only have to change the fuel on like 6 cells. 10secs to do so at most.
Also, a mechanically sound car will idle perfectly fine with 600cc injectors and just the stock ECU.
Also, a mechanically sound car will idle perfectly fine with 600cc injectors and just the stock ECU.
soooo.....STILL didnt get my car back today :/
when i got there they were messing with the idle. it had a VERY rough and rich idle and would die very easily. they said it was cause of my upgraded 660cc DW injectors. basically he said that the UTEC doesnt have a quick and easy way to just up the injectors from the stock size and they had to go in and pull fuel manually for the entire RPM range. ive never tuned ANY car much less this one, so i said that sounds right i guess. so theyre gonna tune it tomorro with a drivable tune and give me the keys. hopefully. **** i am getting so impatient its been like 2 weeks :/
when i got there they were messing with the idle. it had a VERY rough and rich idle and would die very easily. they said it was cause of my upgraded 660cc DW injectors. basically he said that the UTEC doesnt have a quick and easy way to just up the injectors from the stock size and they had to go in and pull fuel manually for the entire RPM range. ive never tuned ANY car much less this one, so i said that sounds right i guess. so theyre gonna tune it tomorro with a drivable tune and give me the keys. hopefully. **** i am getting so impatient its been like 2 weeks :/
08-11-2009, 07:56 AM
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find a new tuner, as that is not right. it takes just seconds to get a mechanically sound car to idle correctly with the UTEC. You only have to change the fuel on like 6 cells. 10secs to do so at most.
Also, a mechanically sound car will idle perfectly fine with 600cc injectors and just the stock ECU.
Also, a mechanically sound car will idle perfectly fine with 600cc injectors and just the stock ECU.
only the techs are working on it now. it will be tuned by the shop owner next monday when he gets back from vacation. hopefully he can give me a good tune. id really hate to have them install EVERYTHING and then go to someone else for the tune. as it is now they are basically tuning it for free since they went over budget by like a grand. ill update again this afternoon. hopefully this time with pics and details of how she drives
08-11-2009, 03:59 PM
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ok so i just got back from the shop. MAJOR idling issues. it ran flawlessly on the dyno however. made 389hp 369tq @ 6.5psi. cant ****ing WAIT to get this car on the road.
but anyway, yeah so its got a MAJOR idling problem. like, it wont even turn over unless you give it a little gas, then itll just die if you dont feather the gas like right away. it dies when you come to a stop. the AFR was hard to tell cause you have to keep feathering the throttle, but when it finally would settle down and idle, it was at like 400rpm and the AFR was like 14.7. my tech thinks it has to do with the drive-by-wire throttle. he thinks the car is getting enough fuel but not nearly enough air at idle because for some reason the throttle isnt opening up all the way. we tried setting the 0% load column to -10, all the way to -30 and it just got worse. any ideas?
oh yeah, and the Z1 clutch is SUPER RATTLY. i really dont like it. at all.
but anyway, yeah so its got a MAJOR idling problem. like, it wont even turn over unless you give it a little gas, then itll just die if you dont feather the gas like right away. it dies when you come to a stop. the AFR was hard to tell cause you have to keep feathering the throttle, but when it finally would settle down and idle, it was at like 400rpm and the AFR was like 14.7. my tech thinks it has to do with the drive-by-wire throttle. he thinks the car is getting enough fuel but not nearly enough air at idle because for some reason the throttle isnt opening up all the way. we tried setting the 0% load column to -10, all the way to -30 and it just got worse. any ideas?
oh yeah, and the Z1 clutch is SUPER RATTLY. i really dont like it. at all.
08-11-2009, 04:17 PM
#29
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On my old APS TT G setup I had a UTEC with the DW 600CC injectors.
Idle and off gas starup were always issues. I also had a built LB and S1 cams though.
Most peeps either :
a) change up to something like HAltech
or
b) relfash the ECu for 600CC idle scaling This can be done with Osiris.
Idle and off gas starup were always issues. I also had a built LB and S1 cams though.
Most peeps either :
a) change up to something like HAltech
or
b) relfash the ECu for 600CC idle scaling This can be done with Osiris.
Last edited by G3po; 08-11-2009 at 04:20 PM.
08-11-2009, 04:43 PM
#30
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On my old APS TT G setup I had a UTEC with the DW 600CC injectors.
Idle and off gas starup were always issues. I also had a built LB and S1 cams though.
Most peeps either :
a) change up to something like HAltech
or
b) relfash the ECu for 600CC idle scaling This can be done with Osiris.
Idle and off gas starup were always issues. I also had a built LB and S1 cams though.
Most peeps either :
a) change up to something like HAltech
or
b) relfash the ECu for 600CC idle scaling This can be done with Osiris.
seriously theres nothing i can do about the shitty idle?
08-11-2009, 04:44 PM
#31
I have dw 600cc injectors and the utec, my car idles pretty nicely and never has problems starting. You should be able to get it to idle... you have your MAF on backwards or something? Does it drive fine under ecu control, or does it just run fine while open loop?
Also im not sure if your shops obdII reader/scanner can do it, but the nissan consult 2 and 3 can do an idle air volume learn, which MAY help, although it wasnt necessary for me.
Does it drive fine under ecu control, or does it just run fine while open loop?Also im not sure if your shops obdII reader/scanner can do it, but the nissan consult 2 and 3 can do an idle air volume learn, which MAY help, although it wasnt necessary for me.
Last edited by jining; 08-11-2009 at 04:50 PM.
08-11-2009, 05:02 PM
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I have dw 600cc injectors and the utec, my car idles pretty nicely and never has problems starting. You should be able to get it to idle... you have your MAF on backwards or something? Does it drive fine under ecu control, or does it just run fine while open loop?
Also im not sure if your shops obdII reader/scanner can do it, but the nissan consult 2 and 3 can do an idle air volume learn, which MAY help, although it wasnt necessary for me.
Does it drive fine under ecu control, or does it just run fine while open loop?Also im not sure if your shops obdII reader/scanner can do it, but the nissan consult 2 and 3 can do an idle air volume learn, which MAY help, although it wasnt necessary for me.
it drives totally fine above like 1k. they were even able to do a few WOT dyno runs with it and it ran awesome. it just falls all over itself at idle and will not stay running. it just shuts off. even driving it when you come to a stop itll just stall.
do you mean under stock ECU control? sorry but i dont know what open loop means :/
they do have UpRev software though and if i need to i could always have them use Osiris instead. id just hate to have to sell this since i already paid for it.
08-11-2009, 05:39 PM
#33
There is something wrong, I have the same setup and mine idles fine. Dont sell the UTEC.
So when you are not in boost (assuming your open loop trigger is 0ish) , the car is in closed loop, meaning the stock ecu is using the maf, o2 sensors etc to get the optimal mixture. Open loop is when UTEC is in control running the predefined fuel/timing maps.
So when you say your car runs fine over 1k you mean you can cruise down the road (closed loop) with your stock ecu in control? Is the A/F fine when you are closed loop?
So when you are not in boost (assuming your open loop trigger is 0ish) , the car is in closed loop, meaning the stock ecu is using the maf, o2 sensors etc to get the optimal mixture. Open loop is when UTEC is in control running the predefined fuel/timing maps.
So when you say your car runs fine over 1k you mean you can cruise down the road (closed loop) with your stock ecu in control? Is the A/F fine when you are closed loop?
Last edited by jining; 08-11-2009 at 05:43 PM.
08-11-2009, 06:07 PM
#34
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There is something wrong, I have the same setup and mine idles fine. Dont sell the UTEC.
So when you are not in boost (assuming your open loop trigger is 0ish) , the car is in closed loop, meaning the stock ecu is using the maf, o2 sensors etc to get the optimal mixture. Open loop is when UTEC is in control running the predefined fuel/timing maps.
So when you say your car runs fine over 1k you mean you can cruise down the road (closed loop) with your stock ecu in control? Is the A/F fine when you are closed loop?
So when you are not in boost (assuming your open loop trigger is 0ish) , the car is in closed loop, meaning the stock ecu is using the maf, o2 sensors etc to get the optimal mixture. Open loop is when UTEC is in control running the predefined fuel/timing maps.
So when you say your car runs fine over 1k you mean you can cruise down the road (closed loop) with your stock ecu in control? Is the A/F fine when you are closed loop?
i dont know specifically what the A/F is, but the guys said it was pretty much perfect whole driving down the road and at WOT, but goes to complete **** below 1k. it wont even just idle hardly at all and is really hard to get started. thats really the ONLY problem.
08-11-2009, 06:48 PM
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just put the idle at 1050rpm. that what I did and it idles like a champ. I wouldnt have a shop that has the problems your having try to squeeze any more power out of anything.
If an idle issue is keeping you from getting the car, especially after you got an a-hole price for the install, take your power you have and enjoy it!!
If an idle issue is keeping you from getting the car, especially after you got an a-hole price for the install, take your power you have and enjoy it!!
08-12-2009, 04:44 AM
#37
just put the idle at 1050rpm. that what I did and it idles like a champ. I wouldnt have a shop that has the problems your having try to squeeze any more power out of anything.
If an idle issue is keeping you from getting the car, especially after you got an a-hole price for the install, take your power you have and enjoy it!!
If an idle issue is keeping you from getting the car, especially after you got an a-hole price for the install, take your power you have and enjoy it!!
My Utec always had off throttle and hot start issues and I hated it. Start saving for a real EMS.
08-12-2009, 05:56 AM
#39
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When I had utec, had my starting issue but it fixed after clean TB. BUT my ecu was flashed and bump high at that time.
I do remember op mention that they using AP, I'm sure they can play stock ecu with AP.
It might be leak, but it sounds more like tune issue to me.
I do remember op mention that they using AP, I'm sure they can play stock ecu with AP.
It might be leak, but it sounds more like tune issue to me.
08-12-2009, 07:32 AM
#40
This advice is 100% correct. The 600cc injectors will need an idle bump and will most likey require some pedaling to get the car started when hot. I would find an experienced VQ shop to retune and tweak the Utec settings to get any more power.
My Utec always had off throttle and hot start issues and I hated it. Start saving for a real EMS.
My Utec always had off throttle and hot start issues and I hated it. Start saving for a real EMS.
Ask them if they have a smoke machine to test and see if theres any vac leaks?
Last edited by jining; 08-12-2009 at 07:34 AM.