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Hal's 6speed street car runs 9.8 @ 148mph!!!

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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by thom000001
Suspension turns out to be VERY important....trust me.....but maybe i'll try one more time this season

tom
This is just my observation, so take it with a big grain of salt...

In general, those of us who upgrade our suspensions generally go with a stiffer suspension which, for the most part, improves handling at the expense of ride quality.

On the other hand, some mustang guys I know generally soften their suspensions for 1/4 mi. The idea is to allow the rear to squat and the front to pitch upward, thereby putting more weight on the rear tires for traction purposes.

One car I read about (I think that it is the ZR1, but my memory is not infallible) actually goes to the extent of softening the shocks on launch to allow the most pitch, and then stiffens the shocks almost imediately after maximum compression is reached on the rear suspension in order to hold that pitch for a period of time during acceleration. That approach should help 0-60 and 1/4 mi. times. One of the Tein suspension systems will allow you to individually adjust compression and rebound damping ratios for both the front and rear shocks.

Last edited by ttg35fort; Sep 3, 2009 at 01:10 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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What suspension do you run Tom?
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ttg35fort
This is just my observation, so take it with a big grain of salt...

In general, those of us who upgrade our suspensions generally go with a stiffer suspension which, for the most part, improves handling at the expense of ride quality.

On the other hand, some mustang guys I know generally soften their suspensions for 1/4 mi. The idea is to allow the rear to squat and the front to pitch upward, thereby putting more weight on the rear tires for traction purposes.

One car I read about (I think that it is the ZR1, but my memory is not infallible) actually goes to the extent of softening the shocks on launch to allow the most pitch, and then stiffens the shocks almost imediately after maximum compression is reached on the rear suspension in order to hold that pitch for a period of time during acceleration.
That is exactly right. The stiffer the suspension, the worse times you will pull in the 1/4.

My old Z with 550rwtq, bone stock suspension, and Michelin street tires had very few traction problems, compared to others with less power and stiffer, road course oriented suspension. They are the ones you see sliding all over the track on DR's.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 01:20 PM
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Hal's suspension is nothing like the drag car's suspension. It is off the shelf suspension from Megan. Much stiffer than stock.

Originally Posted by Chris@FsP
That is exactly right. The stiffer the suspension, the worse times you will pull in the 1/4.

My old Z with 550rwtq, bone stock suspension, and Michelin street tires had very few traction problems, compared to others with less power and stiffer, road course oriented suspension. They are the ones you see sliding all over the track on DR's.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 01:28 PM
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I'm pulling this out of context, just as a reference (from this site)
"...I have found through slow motion video tape that if the rear shocks are too loose the rear tire actually bounces on the initial hit and will break loose almost right away. I stood next to the car pointing the camera right at the rear tire. It was amazing to watch. I kept on tightening the rear shocks until it stopped which was just below mid point of the adjustment. From all that I have seen the rear shocks should never be adjusted less that half way because of rear squat and tire bounce."
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris@FsP
That is exactly right. The stiffer the suspension, the worse times you will pull in the 1/4..

I disagree!!!
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SoundPerformance
I disagree!!!
I'm trying to understand how a RWD car with a stiff suspension is better off than one which allows more weight transfer to the rear tires

Last edited by Chris@FsP; Sep 3, 2009 at 02:07 PM.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 02:49 PM
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Dash, I'm on the bone stock '04 G35c suspension

Originally Posted by rcdash
What suspension do you run Tom?
yup....and I have the squat with the stock suspension, but its the lack of rebound control thats the problem....last time out i was doin 12.8-12.9 @ 130mph spinning most of the way (on 18in dr's)....car would unload the suspension and spin the tires (yea even up at 125mph)....when it was squatting it was good but it was the rebound that was killin me.

Lookin into dif suspension stuff now, and hal really has me itchin now lol....now knowing what the power in capable hands can really do.

tom

Originally Posted by ttg35fort
This is just my observation, so take it with a big grain of salt...

In general, those of us who upgrade our suspensions generally go with a stiffer suspension which, for the most part, improves handling at the expense of ride quality.

On the other hand, some mustang guys I know generally soften their suspensions for 1/4 mi. The idea is to allow the rear to squat and the front to pitch upward, thereby putting more weight on the rear tires for traction purposes.

One car I read about (I think that it is the ZR1, but my memory is not infallible) actually goes to the extent of softening the shocks on launch to allow the most pitch, and then stiffens the shocks almost imediately after maximum compression is reached on the rear suspension in order to hold that pitch for a period of time during acceleration. That approach should help 0-60 and 1/4 mi. times. One of the Tein suspension systems will allow you to individually adjust compression and rebound damping ratios for both the front and rear shocks.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 04:12 PM
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Stiffer suspension = less wheel hop

no wheel hop > weight transfer

Not only does it slow you way down, wheel hop might pop your axle and/or diff bushing.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by djamps
Stiffer suspension = less wheel hop

no wheel hop > weight transfer

Not only does it slow you way down, wheel hop might pop your axle and/or diff bushing.
Perhaps the answer for 1/4 mi. is to get the softest supension you can which is still stiff enough to avoid wheel hop. Maybe the answer is to use the Tein setup, but with softer springs. Maybe the re-bound rate of the rear shocks can set high enough using the Tein system to accomplish the goals. Again, I have no experience with this, so this is mere speculation on my part.
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 06:09 PM
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Hal, congrats on the 9s!!! Your car MOVES OUT. I'm going to have to do some big work over this winter to make my car seem less "slow".
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by thom000001
Well theoretically any of us with 600+rwhp are 10 second capable........that being said its not exactly easy with just power lol

Suspension turns out to be VERY important....trust me.....but maybe i'll try one more time this season

tom
I'm only 2 tenths away with a measly ~520rwhp....
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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okok, we'll say 550rwhp lol

tom

Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
I'm only 2 tenths away with a measly ~520rwhp....
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 07:17 PM
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Looks like my car is in good hands
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Old Sep 3, 2009 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by thom000001
Dash, I'm on the bone stock '04 G35c suspension



yup....and I have the squat with the stock suspension, but its the lack of rebound control thats the problem....last time out i was doin 12.8-12.9 @ 130mph spinning most of the way (on 18in dr's)....car would unload the suspension and spin the tires (yea even up at 125mph)....when it was squatting it was good but it was the rebound that was killin me.

Lookin into dif suspension stuff now, and hal really has me itchin now lol....now knowing what the power in capable hands can really do.

tom
Have you tried running on 16's or 15's with taller/softer side walls? 18 dr's close to streets.
His runs on 18's streets also way slower@11sec.

Last edited by marra23; Sep 4, 2009 at 02:21 AM.
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris@FsP
I'm trying to understand how a RWD car with a stiff suspension is better off than one which allows more weight transfer to the rear tires
I'll try to explain it the best way I can..actually its pretty simple.And I also agree with the guys from SP when it comes to a stiffer suspension.

When you launch the car you want very minimal squat which of course means a stiffer suspension. You want the car to go forward as soon as the car launches and not downwards (squatting). Too much squat can easily peel of a .1 or more from your ET.

That's the simple version...I'll let Raj provide the physics formula

Hal...great job and that Z hauls a$$.

I have seen Hal run his car down the 1/4 and the man can drive.
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 07:02 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by Blackbird CPV35
Looks like my car is in good hands
I seen your ride down there last week. I checked it out. It Looks sick, very clean your car makes me want to get a G after seeing yours in person. I liked your sticker too on your rear glass.
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by coachk
I'll try to explain it the best way I can..actually its pretty simple.And I also agree with the guys from SP when it comes to a stiffer suspension.

When you launch the car you want very minimal squat which of course means a stiffer suspension. You want the car to go forward as soon as the car launches and not downwards (squatting). Too much squat can easily peel of a .1 or more from your ET.

That's the simple version...I'll let Raj provide the physics formula

Hal...great job and that Z hauls a$$.

I have seen Hal run his car down the 1/4 and the man can drive.
Thanks for the reply, Coach. I'm afraid that I didn't choose my words carefully enough in my previous posts. My intention was not to imply that one would want the softest, squishiest suspension possible, but a super stiff road course suspension setup would not be ideal either. Take Hal's run for example; his car squats down a good 2-3 inches or more, judging from his video. If you gave Rickdogg's car (slammed, stiff track setup), for example, the same wheel/tire setup and same horsepower, his results would be significantly different.

Sorry for the thread derailment, Hal
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 07:23 AM
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I was on a hoosier bias ply on a 16in wheel for 1 pass....but tire was loosing air FAST (no tubes)...so only did one shakedown pass (my first pass on a bias ply).

I'll deffinately be putting something similar on in the future and going for broke. I can't go to a 15in wheel without changin the rear calipers (brembos), and I know SP had to grind their base rear calipers to fit their 15in wheel.

But its definately an option.

tom

Originally Posted by marra23
Have you tried running on 16's or 15's with taller/softer side walls? 18 dr's close to streets.
His runs on 18's streets also way slower@11sec.
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by thom000001
I was on a hoosier bias ply on a 16in wheel for 1 pass....but tire was loosing air FAST (no tubes)...so only did one shakedown pass (my first pass on a bias ply).

I'll deffinately be putting something similar on in the future and going for broke. I can't go to a 15in wheel without changin the rear calipers (brembos), and I know SP had to grind their base rear calipers to fit their 15in wheel.

But its definately an option.

tom

My 15in weld prostars fit perfectly with my stock rear calipers.
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