Hal's 6speed street car runs 9.8 @ 148mph!!!
#61
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In general, those of us who upgrade our suspensions generally go with a stiffer suspension which, for the most part, improves handling at the expense of ride quality.
On the other hand, some mustang guys I know generally soften their suspensions for 1/4 mi. The idea is to allow the rear to squat and the front to pitch upward, thereby putting more weight on the rear tires for traction purposes.
One car I read about (I think that it is the ZR1, but my memory is not infallible) actually goes to the extent of softening the shocks on launch to allow the most pitch, and then stiffens the shocks almost imediately after maximum compression is reached on the rear suspension in order to hold that pitch for a period of time during acceleration. That approach should help 0-60 and 1/4 mi. times. One of the Tein suspension systems will allow you to individually adjust compression and rebound damping ratios for both the front and rear shocks.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 09-03-2009 at 01:10 PM.
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This is just my observation, so take it with a big grain of salt...
In general, those of us who upgrade our suspensions generally go with a stiffer suspension which, for the most part, improves handling at the expense of ride quality.
On the other hand, some mustang guys I know generally soften their suspensions for 1/4 mi. The idea is to allow the rear to squat and the front to pitch upward, thereby putting more weight on the rear tires for traction purposes.
One car I read about (I think that it is the ZR1, but my memory is not infallible) actually goes to the extent of softening the shocks on launch to allow the most pitch, and then stiffens the shocks almost imediately after maximum compression is reached on the rear suspension in order to hold that pitch for a period of time during acceleration.
In general, those of us who upgrade our suspensions generally go with a stiffer suspension which, for the most part, improves handling at the expense of ride quality.
On the other hand, some mustang guys I know generally soften their suspensions for 1/4 mi. The idea is to allow the rear to squat and the front to pitch upward, thereby putting more weight on the rear tires for traction purposes.
One car I read about (I think that it is the ZR1, but my memory is not infallible) actually goes to the extent of softening the shocks on launch to allow the most pitch, and then stiffens the shocks almost imediately after maximum compression is reached on the rear suspension in order to hold that pitch for a period of time during acceleration.
My old Z with 550rwtq, bone stock suspension, and Michelin street tires had very few traction problems, compared to others with less power and stiffer, road course oriented suspension. They are the ones you see sliding all over the track on DR's.
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Hal's suspension is nothing like the drag car's suspension. It is off the shelf suspension from Megan. Much stiffer than stock.
That is exactly right. The stiffer the suspension, the worse times you will pull in the 1/4.
My old Z with 550rwtq, bone stock suspension, and Michelin street tires had very few traction problems, compared to others with less power and stiffer, road course oriented suspension. They are the ones you see sliding all over the track on DR's.
My old Z with 550rwtq, bone stock suspension, and Michelin street tires had very few traction problems, compared to others with less power and stiffer, road course oriented suspension. They are the ones you see sliding all over the track on DR's.
#65
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I'm pulling this out of context, just as a reference (from this site)
"...I have found through slow motion video tape that if the rear shocks are too loose the rear tire actually bounces on the initial hit and will break loose almost right away. I stood next to the car pointing the camera right at the rear tire. It was amazing to watch. I kept on tightening the rear shocks until it stopped which was just below mid point of the adjustment. From all that I have seen the rear shocks should never be adjusted less that half way because of rear squat and tire bounce."
#68
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Dash, I'm on the bone stock '04 G35c suspension
yup....and I have the squat with the stock suspension, but its the lack of rebound control thats the problem....last time out i was doin 12.8-12.9 @ 130mph spinning most of the way (on 18in dr's)....car would unload the suspension and spin the tires (yea even up at 125mph)....when it was squatting it was good but it was the rebound that was killin me.
Lookin into dif suspension stuff now, and hal really has me itchin now lol....now knowing what the power in capable hands can really do.
tom
yup....and I have the squat with the stock suspension, but its the lack of rebound control thats the problem....last time out i was doin 12.8-12.9 @ 130mph spinning most of the way (on 18in dr's)....car would unload the suspension and spin the tires (yea even up at 125mph)....when it was squatting it was good but it was the rebound that was killin me.
Lookin into dif suspension stuff now, and hal really has me itchin now lol....now knowing what the power in capable hands can really do.
tom
This is just my observation, so take it with a big grain of salt...
In general, those of us who upgrade our suspensions generally go with a stiffer suspension which, for the most part, improves handling at the expense of ride quality.
On the other hand, some mustang guys I know generally soften their suspensions for 1/4 mi. The idea is to allow the rear to squat and the front to pitch upward, thereby putting more weight on the rear tires for traction purposes.
One car I read about (I think that it is the ZR1, but my memory is not infallible) actually goes to the extent of softening the shocks on launch to allow the most pitch, and then stiffens the shocks almost imediately after maximum compression is reached on the rear suspension in order to hold that pitch for a period of time during acceleration. That approach should help 0-60 and 1/4 mi. times. One of the Tein suspension systems will allow you to individually adjust compression and rebound damping ratios for both the front and rear shocks.
In general, those of us who upgrade our suspensions generally go with a stiffer suspension which, for the most part, improves handling at the expense of ride quality.
On the other hand, some mustang guys I know generally soften their suspensions for 1/4 mi. The idea is to allow the rear to squat and the front to pitch upward, thereby putting more weight on the rear tires for traction purposes.
One car I read about (I think that it is the ZR1, but my memory is not infallible) actually goes to the extent of softening the shocks on launch to allow the most pitch, and then stiffens the shocks almost imediately after maximum compression is reached on the rear suspension in order to hold that pitch for a period of time during acceleration. That approach should help 0-60 and 1/4 mi. times. One of the Tein suspension systems will allow you to individually adjust compression and rebound damping ratios for both the front and rear shocks.
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Perhaps the answer for 1/4 mi. is to get the softest supension you can which is still stiff enough to avoid wheel hop. Maybe the answer is to use the Tein setup, but with softer springs. Maybe the re-bound rate of the rear shocks can set high enough using the Tein system to accomplish the goals. Again, I have no experience with this, so this is mere speculation on my part.
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Dash, I'm on the bone stock '04 G35c suspension
yup....and I have the squat with the stock suspension, but its the lack of rebound control thats the problem....last time out i was doin 12.8-12.9 @ 130mph spinning most of the way (on 18in dr's)....car would unload the suspension and spin the tires (yea even up at 125mph)....when it was squatting it was good but it was the rebound that was killin me.
Lookin into dif suspension stuff now, and hal really has me itchin now lol....now knowing what the power in capable hands can really do.
tom
yup....and I have the squat with the stock suspension, but its the lack of rebound control thats the problem....last time out i was doin 12.8-12.9 @ 130mph spinning most of the way (on 18in dr's)....car would unload the suspension and spin the tires (yea even up at 125mph)....when it was squatting it was good but it was the rebound that was killin me.
Lookin into dif suspension stuff now, and hal really has me itchin now lol....now knowing what the power in capable hands can really do.
tom
His runs on 18's streets also way slower@11sec.
Last edited by marra23; 09-04-2009 at 02:21 AM.
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When you launch the car you want very minimal squat which of course means a stiffer suspension. You want the car to go forward as soon as the car launches and not downwards (squatting). Too much squat can easily peel of a .1 or more from your ET.
That's the simple version...I'll let Raj provide the physics formula
Hal...great job and that Z hauls a$$.
I have seen Hal run his car down the 1/4 and the man can drive.
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I'll try to explain it the best way I can..actually its pretty simple.And I also agree with the guys from SP when it comes to a stiffer suspension.
When you launch the car you want very minimal squat which of course means a stiffer suspension. You want the car to go forward as soon as the car launches and not downwards (squatting). Too much squat can easily peel of a .1 or more from your ET.
That's the simple version...I'll let Raj provide the physics formula
Hal...great job and that Z hauls a$$.
I have seen Hal run his car down the 1/4 and the man can drive.
When you launch the car you want very minimal squat which of course means a stiffer suspension. You want the car to go forward as soon as the car launches and not downwards (squatting). Too much squat can easily peel of a .1 or more from your ET.
That's the simple version...I'll let Raj provide the physics formula
Hal...great job and that Z hauls a$$.
I have seen Hal run his car down the 1/4 and the man can drive.
Sorry for the thread derailment, Hal
#79
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I was on a hoosier bias ply on a 16in wheel for 1 pass....but tire was loosing air FAST (no tubes)...so only did one shakedown pass (my first pass on a bias ply).
I'll deffinately be putting something similar on in the future and going for broke. I can't go to a 15in wheel without changin the rear calipers (brembos), and I know SP had to grind their base rear calipers to fit their 15in wheel.
But its definately an option.
tom
I'll deffinately be putting something similar on in the future and going for broke. I can't go to a 15in wheel without changin the rear calipers (brembos), and I know SP had to grind their base rear calipers to fit their 15in wheel.
But its definately an option.
tom
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I was on a hoosier bias ply on a 16in wheel for 1 pass....but tire was loosing air FAST (no tubes)...so only did one shakedown pass (my first pass on a bias ply).
I'll deffinately be putting something similar on in the future and going for broke. I can't go to a 15in wheel without changin the rear calipers (brembos), and I know SP had to grind their base rear calipers to fit their 15in wheel.
But its definately an option.
tom
I'll deffinately be putting something similar on in the future and going for broke. I can't go to a 15in wheel without changin the rear calipers (brembos), and I know SP had to grind their base rear calipers to fit their 15in wheel.
But its definately an option.
tom
My 15in weld prostars fit perfectly with my stock rear calipers.