Has anyone installed an HKS Turbo "Setup Kit" on a Z or a G? I need help!
09-10-2009, 09:46 AM
#1
Has anyone installed an HKS Turbo "Setup Kit" on a Z or a G? I need help!
Ok this might be a long shot but here it goes. I am trying to install an HKS GT-RS twin turbo "setup kit" on my 2003 G35. I have already fabricated my own piping to mate up with a JWT intercooler setup, and now I am doing the "final install". I just got the passenger side manifold and turbo installed last night, and I was in the process of installing the compressor outlet pipe when I ran into a problem.
The outlet pipe bolts onto the compressor outet, and snakes down next to the starter and then forward around the engine mount, then down around the oil filter. I can see why this is the only kit that does it this way - its an EXTREMELY tight fit, I am amazed that it clears everything - albiet by millimeters in most places. This of course makes for a PITA installation though. I was able to tighten all of the nuts in this assembly except for one. The "inboard" part of the compressor outlet pipe has a stud that goes through the flange on the compressor, and you are supposed to install a nut on this stud. The problem is that it's tucked in next to the engine, behind the starter and engine mount etc. and there it's almost physically impossible to get a wrench of any size or shape in there (or your hands for that matter).
It would be easier if the starter were out of the way, but you can't install the starter after the compressor outlet pipe is installed because there is no room. So you have to have the starter (loosley) in place, then bolt up the compressor outlet pipe, then fasten the starter. This pretty much left me with one option - had to remove the wastegate actuator (which bolts to the engine in front of the turbo) and go in from the front with a stubby wrench. I was able to tighten the nut, but I could barely get adequate torque on it. The only other way I can see that this might be doable would be to jack up the engine enough to remove the engine mount, which would then give you room to access this nut, but that seems like a crazy thing to have to do.
I am just worried about this nut coming loose, because if it does it's going to be a shitload of work to get back in there.
All in all I am pretty impressed with the fit and finish of the HKS kit, but my god is it a pain in the butt to install. Fabricating and installing the custom turbo in my Miata is a freaking cakewalk compared to this. I don't even want to add up the number of hours I have spent on this turbo fabrication/install project because it's obscene.
The outlet pipe bolts onto the compressor outet, and snakes down next to the starter and then forward around the engine mount, then down around the oil filter. I can see why this is the only kit that does it this way - its an EXTREMELY tight fit, I am amazed that it clears everything - albiet by millimeters in most places. This of course makes for a PITA installation though. I was able to tighten all of the nuts in this assembly except for one. The "inboard" part of the compressor outlet pipe has a stud that goes through the flange on the compressor, and you are supposed to install a nut on this stud. The problem is that it's tucked in next to the engine, behind the starter and engine mount etc. and there it's almost physically impossible to get a wrench of any size or shape in there (or your hands for that matter).
It would be easier if the starter were out of the way, but you can't install the starter after the compressor outlet pipe is installed because there is no room. So you have to have the starter (loosley) in place, then bolt up the compressor outlet pipe, then fasten the starter. This pretty much left me with one option - had to remove the wastegate actuator (which bolts to the engine in front of the turbo) and go in from the front with a stubby wrench. I was able to tighten the nut, but I could barely get adequate torque on it. The only other way I can see that this might be doable would be to jack up the engine enough to remove the engine mount, which would then give you room to access this nut, but that seems like a crazy thing to have to do.
I am just worried about this nut coming loose, because if it does it's going to be a shitload of work to get back in there.
All in all I am pretty impressed with the fit and finish of the HKS kit, but my god is it a pain in the butt to install. Fabricating and installing the custom turbo in my Miata is a freaking cakewalk compared to this. I don't even want to add up the number of hours I have spent on this turbo fabrication/install project because it's obscene.
Last edited by mx594; 09-10-2009 at 09:59 AM.
09-10-2009, 11:58 AM
#3
Yes, the engine is still in the car. And yes, I considered cutting the head off a wrench and welding it back on at a ~120 degree angle, so I could "wrap around" the turbo and reach that nut. I may still do that, just for peace of mind to make sure it's tight.
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09-10-2009, 10:03 PM
#8
i have the hks twin turbo set up... i remember installing this piece you speak off... but like Shariff said... its so much easier when the engine is out... you might need to lift the engine off the motor mounts like you said. but its a tight fit... i spent hours making everything fit... im glad i did the install with the engine out of the car. lmk if you have other questions.
09-10-2009, 10:06 PM
#9
oh btw thanks for that first pic. im replacing the stock wastegate actuators for a set of Forge actuators... Im sure you know the stock ones are very weak... even with a boost controller i was only able to boost 8psi... and with a built engine i wanted at least 16psi... once i have the stronger actuators... I will go back to Shariff for more boost!!!
09-11-2009, 02:44 AM
#10
Well I am too far to pull the engine now. So far it wasn't too bad doing it with the engine in the car, this nut was the first thing that gave me a real struggle.
The part that is taking forever is the fabrication...I made all my own intake piping, intercooler to TB piping, SS coolant hard lines, SS oil feed lines, etc etc. Heck, I even had to make my own wastegate brackets and actuator rods, since the used kit I bought didn't come with any and HKS wanted $80 for each bracket. It was quite a trick fabricating the pass. side bracket that bolts to the engine block! It had to be absolutely perfect to get it to fit in there, and all I had to look at was pictures from the HKS install manual...and of course I had to make them from stainless because I am ****.
Boostintt - I remember you telling me that you are going to upgrade the actuators...I offered to buy your brackets if you didnt need them anymore. I am no too worried about it right now though, because if I ever want to go higher than 8 psi I will need to pull the motor and build it anyway. If you want a pdf copy of the HKS install manual I can send you one.
Speaking of actuators - Boostintt, I recall you saying that your HKS kit only made ~4.5 psi with the stock actuators and no boost control. In order to test mine, I hooked up a hand pump to the actuators after I installed them in the car, and then hooked up my boost gauge to the same line. I slowly increased the pressure and watched when the wastegate first cracked. With minimum preload on the actuator rod, it would crack at 3 psi, and be open to about 45 degrees at around 6 psi. Adding about 3/16" of preload on the rod made it crack at 4 psi. This way, I was able to very precisely balance the two wastegates so i know the turbos will be providing the same boost. Hopefully it will also make closer to 5.5-6 psi now without a boost controller.
The part that is taking forever is the fabrication...I made all my own intake piping, intercooler to TB piping, SS coolant hard lines, SS oil feed lines, etc etc. Heck, I even had to make my own wastegate brackets and actuator rods, since the used kit I bought didn't come with any and HKS wanted $80 for each bracket. It was quite a trick fabricating the pass. side bracket that bolts to the engine block! It had to be absolutely perfect to get it to fit in there, and all I had to look at was pictures from the HKS install manual...and of course I had to make them from stainless because I am ****.
Boostintt - I remember you telling me that you are going to upgrade the actuators...I offered to buy your brackets if you didnt need them anymore. I am no too worried about it right now though, because if I ever want to go higher than 8 psi I will need to pull the motor and build it anyway. If you want a pdf copy of the HKS install manual I can send you one.
Speaking of actuators - Boostintt, I recall you saying that your HKS kit only made ~4.5 psi with the stock actuators and no boost control. In order to test mine, I hooked up a hand pump to the actuators after I installed them in the car, and then hooked up my boost gauge to the same line. I slowly increased the pressure and watched when the wastegate first cracked. With minimum preload on the actuator rod, it would crack at 3 psi, and be open to about 45 degrees at around 6 psi. Adding about 3/16" of preload on the rod made it crack at 4 psi. This way, I was able to very precisely balance the two wastegates so i know the turbos will be providing the same boost. Hopefully it will also make closer to 5.5-6 psi now without a boost controller.
09-11-2009, 04:19 AM
#13
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Hey Mx.Hang in there man.It might be alittle late to pull the motor but if you've made some progress and think you can do it, keep at it man. Your situation is far more difficult than mine was installing an hks t51r.We are rooting for you my friend
09-11-2009, 06:38 PM
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I've never installed a turbo kit before, but props man. That's the fun of doing it your self, the pain in the a** but the rewards will be worth it.
Just a thought....is it possible to just "loosen" maybe a side motor mount? Maybe enough to just give a tiny bit of room?
Keep it up man.
Just a thought....is it possible to just "loosen" maybe a side motor mount? Maybe enough to just give a tiny bit of room?
Keep it up man.
09-14-2009, 04:33 AM
#19
Yes I have been referencing the JWT manual quite heavily. I am aware of the wrench you speak of however JWT uses it for the forward inboard nut on the turbine flange, not the compressor outlet. The JWT compressor outlet on the passenger side points upward instead of downward like HKS, which seems to make things a whole lot easier (with the downside being a somewhat longer piping run to the intercooler).
09-16-2009, 09:14 AM
#20
Well I made my own wrenches. I was able to use one of them to adapt to a socket and thus get a torque wrench on 7 out of 8 turbine housing bolts (the 8th one I had to use a regular box end wrench, but I was able to get plenty of torque on it). The other wrench I used to take the pass. side compressor tube off, apply silicone to the flange (because I forgot to the first time) and re-install it. It was much easier this time! I will post pictures of said wrenches in my future build thread.
Oh yeah and the drivers sided was quite a bit easier to install...no fussing with the starter!
Oh yeah and the drivers sided was quite a bit easier to install...no fussing with the starter!
Last edited by mx594; 09-16-2009 at 09:16 AM.
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