idanielsan

Yeah there is no room for it with the piping, I wont miss it. When i pulled the bumper off it was completely full, had to drain the whole thing.

IIQuickSilverII

iTrader: (13)

you might be able to fit a smaller one with some slight relocation, greddy sells one

bcampbe7

subscribed

idanielsan

Installing the downpipe with the header wrap is quite a chore. Ive taken it out and reoriented it about 5 times now. The clearance is so tight that it makes you feel it wont work.

Essentially i need to slide it in with the turbo flange up and the lipped edge in between the shock tower and the coolant hard lines. Bending them out of the way seems to help alot and moves them away from the heat it will be making.

Its kind of like putting a shovel in the ground covered with rocks. Once I got it slid in, I can lay the pipe down flat and push it in until the below pic, where you have to rotate it so the 2nd downpipe with match up to it.

This is about the length in that I rotated it to make everything fit. A real pain afer wrapping the downpipe.


I know its ghetto, but I used some ribbon I found from a gift and wrapped it under the downpipe to let me pull up from one end while I push from the other. Even if I had someone to assist me there hand would have to be smurf size to fit in there.


Heres what I got it to look like after lots of effort


After trying to put in the turbo, the shock tower is so close I decided to put a divot in the metal to keep from scraping and allow for some more movement while fitting. Im not good with metal work so I ended up scratching the paint. Im sure Ill regret it later my not taking my time and covering it properly before wailing on it, but i can always use touch up paint.

silent nite

It's coming along decent .Good Job!!

idanielsan

Fresh from the box


Broken up to start install


Test fitting all the oil and coolant lines


didnt see where this was necessary for the kit, but I didnt feel comfortable sandwich the downpipe right against the turbo with no good seal. I could have used RTV, but with the small amount of space and the mess it would have made, spending 20 bucks on this felt like the better way


another view of the downpipe gasket, Purchased separately.


you have to pull the downpipe out to get the turbo housing to match up. Dont forget the T3 gasket from the up pipe. I also used high temp anti Sieze on the bolts.
Also I moved/bent the ac line to get it out of the way to the other side of the frame


To get the up pipe bolt closest to the shock tower I had to use a slim extension and swivel joint to torque it down. I believe a Crows foot will work, but I had better luck this way.


Test fitting the center section housing

Getting all the lines on there is a total exercise in random failures
Here is what seemed to work for me.
- Carefully insert center cartridge in hot side of turbo
- loosely install retainer plates and bolts so the turbo can still be clocked and tight enough not to block it from turning.
- Put on the oil return gasket and allen bolts either before mounting the center cartridge or the first thing after mounting it.
- Install oil feed line adapter (not the braided line yet)
- Install the AN fittings (coolant in/out) to the center cartridge , but not the elbows/extension for the hose. ( Still need to be able to "clock" the turbo)
- Install the 45 deg elbow for the oil return line.
- Install the compressor housing slowly, not touching the fins.
- loosely install compressor retainer plates and bolts so the turbo can still be clocked and tight enough not to block it from turning.
- once you have everything together, should be able to run oil and coolant lines and clock the turbo so the oil lines is close to the bottom as possilble

idanielsan

And heres where the instructions start to get vague, I understand where the Oil line comes from and where it goes to. It also needs to be as vertical as I can get it so there is good flow.

What I dont know is what coolant lines to use for the input into the center section, or where the output goes.

silent nite

Excellant idea with the flange gasket.It does not hurt to make sure that thing seals.I did the exact same thing

idanielsan

it looks like from Jeffie7s pic the coolant line goes to the throttle body. Is this the same line that I tapped for the motordyne throttle body bypass?

Still not sure where the coolant return line would go

silent nite

I know you have a line in front of the motor which you could tap into to install your left coolant line(as you're looking at your car head on) and the line on the passenger side around where your throttle body is can tap into for the right side.I'm not sure if that will help??

ATL_Red_G35

iTrader: (8)

ONE OF THE BEST THREAD EVER.

A lot of the info can be shared with other install.

Thanks OP for the time and effort.

silent nite

I used a TN water line kit.That's how thier kit installs.

tiguy99

iTrader: (3)

I love DIY! Subbed

silent nite

It get's a little hairy doing custom ideas.R&D!!! (LOL)

jeffie7

iTrader: (4)

nahhhhhhhhh this one is the best ever!

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...o-install.html

First DYI ever of the powerlab kit =)

Both the backside of the turbo housing and the down pipe are machined there's no need to run anything other then anti thread seize on the bolts. I have zero leaks on mine. even almost 2 years later. Granted I never drive my car but still, no leaks.

As to the coolant line. Most people will tell you to just disconnect the throttle body water lines and use those leaving the throttle body dry, the coolant is meant to help speed up the process of getting the intake to temp so the car will run so rich for so long on cold start ups.

I didn't like the idea of just bypassing it, so, I picked up some extra lines.


Engine to throttle body, throttle body to turbo, turbo back to throttle body, throttle body back to engine.

That's what I did.





can't really see the lines but ohwell....


As to your downpipe, its tight no doubt, just make sure you relocated the O2 sensor I've had a few PMS on HOW THE HELL DO YOU DO THE DOWNPIPE!!!!!! turns out a lot of people miss that you relocate the O2 sensor and use the supplied plug to plug the hole. I'm hoping that at this point intense has that info in the directions, when I did my install there wasn't anything outside of basic pipe A goes to pipe B and putting the turbo together. Most of the little details were found out over the phone with intense.

jeffie7

iTrader: (4)

I took these last week when I had the bumper cover off. Might help with the piping.

idanielsan

Final Fitment of the oil line and coolant lines


Different view


Line from bottom of turbo to oil pan spacer. The line supplied in the kit was longer than needed, Trimmed to fit


Oil line to turbo, connected passenger side.


View of the coolant line going from the throttle body to the center cartridge


Where I plugged in the second coolant line to the turbo

idanielsan

View of the front before any changes


Basically have to man-handle the power steering cooler and rotate it clock wise. Kit instructions say to use the existing bracket. Was really suprised that it fits over to the side. It wont get any airflow behind the bumper, but I dont think that will be a problem for my modest goals.


Moving the horns and airbag sensor out of the way. It seems everyone does this differently, here is what worked best for me.


test fitting the intercooler, i have a 2004 , no cutting was required to the frame. I didnt receive a crash bar template so that will have to be cut at a later time.


Power steering lines before trying to route the 1st cold pipe.


Heres what I came up with, I moved one of the lines to the inside of the frame. Otherwise, the cold pipe was going to be very very crowded


1st cold pipe in place, with a little bit of room to move around.


front view of the intercooler and cold pipe


2nd cold pipe in place


hot pipe fitment


Looking down on the turbo and reducer coupler

idanielsan

Removing the o2 sensor from the drivers side header.


The extension and swivel socket has become very helpful


another view of rotating the downpipe trying to squeeze it in there.


Fitment here is also extremely tight, I had to remove this nut to allow the 3 inch downpipe to make it past the transmission tunnel, then trying to tighten the bolt back was annoying


Final fitment.

idanielsan

Getting ready to install the wastegate


Alas, what seemed like a simple task turned out to be arduous. The Wastegate when attached with the inner machined gasket was about a mm to thick for the band clamp to fully close, thus not allowing the screw to slide all the way through.


Drilling was my only hope, I really did not want to bang on and trim such nicely machined hardware, but I had not choice.
From the pictures above, I got it to work, but I did NOT want to do it this way.


The dump tube did not cause as many problems and allowed me to twist it while still in the band clamp for attaching to the rest of the exhaust


Routing the charge pipe to the side of the wastegate


I ran the tube up the side of the frame beside the headers and back down to the side of the intercooler cold pipe