Built motor @ 17psi misfire
11-15-2010, 06:23 PM
#101
rich can cause misfires.
and the coil packs are on the plugs so how are you supposed to shrink wrap them is the first question and second question is what magical properties does your buddy thing shrink wrap does?
It won't help. If you think it's a bad coil pack then replace them. Usually when one goes bad it just goes completely and doesn't miss on occassion or at certain boost levels. It's all the time.
and the coil packs are on the plugs so how are you supposed to shrink wrap them is the first question and second question is what magical properties does your buddy thing shrink wrap does?
It won't help. If you think it's a bad coil pack then replace them. Usually when one goes bad it just goes completely and doesn't miss on occassion or at certain boost levels. It's all the time.
11-15-2010, 09:04 PM
#103
Yup, turns out the original volt booster i had was good, i got a second one thinking it was faulty, I had used a crappy analog voltmeter which didnt pick up the difference. I am hoping its the alternator, or that I need to lean it out a little.
11-27-2010, 09:50 PM
#105
Well, I recently purchased a second wideband, and relocated my existing one, now I have a wideband on each bank. I discovered that the AFR between the banks was way off, in some areas even almost 2 points apart. (This is most likely due to the FWD intake manifold flowing unevenly). Now that the engine is tuned with both banks having exactly the same AFR, the car feels so much better, even the turbo feels more responsive. I have not tested it in higher gear, but in 2nd it just pulls hard, i have not felt the misfire, or at least its not noticeable in low gear like before. I will eventually change the alternator to either an OEM or a high output one since this is probably the cause for misses.
09-08-2013, 11:15 AM
#106
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This is an old dead thread but my misfire just came back after switching over to a 6265 turbo a few months ago when my 6765 died.
I don't drive my car often so there was talk of grounding issues since the rpm gets a zero reading. I replaced the crank sensor with a brand new one and did a few pulls and it was gone so I thought I was in the clear. Went out the next day and it came right back. It's not the same place or same boost level or anything. It's completely random hiccup when but I will say it's almost always on building boost (no matter what rpm) and resolves once boost stabilizes. It's killing me because I can't up the boost past 14psi since the hiccup bucks the car so hard.
I don't drive my car often so there was talk of grounding issues since the rpm gets a zero reading. I replaced the crank sensor with a brand new one and did a few pulls and it was gone so I thought I was in the clear. Went out the next day and it came right back. It's not the same place or same boost level or anything. It's completely random hiccup when but I will say it's almost always on building boost (no matter what rpm) and resolves once boost stabilizes. It's killing me because I can't up the boost past 14psi since the hiccup bucks the car so hard.
09-11-2013, 06:24 AM
#107
This is an old dead thread but my misfire just came back after switching over to a 6265 turbo a few months ago when my 6765 died.
I don't drive my car often so there was talk of grounding issues since the rpm gets a zero reading. I replaced the crank sensor with a brand new one and did a few pulls and it was gone so I thought I was in the clear. Went out the next day and it came right back. It's not the same place or same boost level or anything. It's completely random hiccup when but I will say it's almost always on building boost (no matter what rpm) and resolves once boost stabilizes. It's killing me because I can't up the boost past 14psi since the hiccup bucks the car so hard.
I don't drive my car often so there was talk of grounding issues since the rpm gets a zero reading. I replaced the crank sensor with a brand new one and did a few pulls and it was gone so I thought I was in the clear. Went out the next day and it came right back. It's not the same place or same boost level or anything. It's completely random hiccup when but I will say it's almost always on building boost (no matter what rpm) and resolves once boost stabilizes. It's killing me because I can't up the boost past 14psi since the hiccup bucks the car so hard.
09-11-2013, 01:12 PM
#108
Binder, In my case it turned out to be the TPS. When I installed a 3.5 throttle body I had to adjust the TPS to give me a decent idle since I do not have a IACV, car ran and idled fine, I had to set the TPS on the higher specs, I think 5v was max i had it higher. It turns out that this for some reason causes the misfires at WOT. I have since turned the TPS down in voltage at WOT to 4.5ish and no misfire. I tested this again by putting it higher again and it missed. Makes no sense to me, but that was it.
09-17-2013, 04:28 PM
#111
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Nope, I have a tiny exhaust leak at a vband but nothing cold side.
Mine is within spec. I think haltech red is as 4.7 something so within the 5v. That hasn't changed since the problem.
Timing is the same as it was before. Exactly how I have it dialed in.
i use bank to bank tuning to get it to balance. They are within .2 of each other and well within the 11-12 a/f range that would be ideal.
I think I have an idea. I completely forgot when I had down time I upgraded my haltech software. I was told that it was fully tested and perfectly glitch free. Well a friend just sent me a notice that there is an issue with the new upgraded stuff which causes a communication error. This makes sense because my car will show 0 on everything for a brief second during WOT then go back to normal. I'm so pissed I believed that a software upgrade would be perfectly fine without any issues. I'm going to switch back to my old trusty 1.10 firmware and software that worked for 2 years with not a single issue. I hope that fixes it.
I tore the entire wiring harness out and cleaned all the connections and grounds then added additional grounding wires per service manual bulletin and the problem remains. It has to be this new haltech software.
Binder, In my case it turned out to be the TPS. When I installed a 3.5 throttle body I had to adjust the TPS to give me a decent idle since I do not have a IACV, car ran and idled fine, I had to set the TPS on the higher specs, I think 5v was max i had it higher. It turns out that this for some reason causes the misfires at WOT. I have since turned the TPS down in voltage at WOT to 4.5ish and no misfire. I tested this again by putting it higher again and it missed. Makes no sense to me, but that was it.
Timing is the same as it was before. Exactly how I have it dialed in.
i use bank to bank tuning to get it to balance. They are within .2 of each other and well within the 11-12 a/f range that would be ideal.
I think I have an idea. I completely forgot when I had down time I upgraded my haltech software. I was told that it was fully tested and perfectly glitch free. Well a friend just sent me a notice that there is an issue with the new upgraded stuff which causes a communication error. This makes sense because my car will show 0 on everything for a brief second during WOT then go back to normal. I'm so pissed I believed that a software upgrade would be perfectly fine without any issues. I'm going to switch back to my old trusty 1.10 firmware and software that worked for 2 years with not a single issue. I hope that fixes it.
I tore the entire wiring harness out and cleaned all the connections and grounds then added additional grounding wires per service manual bulletin and the problem remains. It has to be this new haltech software.
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