Anyone interested in a DSS Pro Axle Group Buy?
11-30-2009, 05:30 PM
#123
As everyone else is getting these axles to their doorsteps, here are a few hints for the DIY'er
1. Mark the longer axles for the passenger side. Dont wanna get them mixed up and have to reinstall 2x
2. Torque down the 10mm hex bolts on the outer CV 1st thing after you open the box. I put some blue locite on them since there was no lock washer
3. I called DSS and they said to leave the gold grease cover on the end of the inner CV. That is different than how Injected posted their photo. Its fit tighter without the cover, but DSS said to leave it to protect the inner CV. I also found that means you need to keep going around tightening in star fashion multiple times to achieve the spec'd torque. The gold cover crushes apparently.
4. I found it much easier to use normal socket head bolts on the inner CV adapter plate than the supplied hex bolts. Much easier to tighten with a box wrench. The socket heads prolly work just as well using an L hex key and a short piece of pipe attached.
5. Make sure to put a generous amount of moly grease on the outer CV hub to avoid that dreaded axle click that eatly model G35/350z are notorious for. I also put some moly grease between the diff and the adapter plate as well.
** I used my spacer to brace my 5 tom 3 jaw puller. Makes it a simple job. Not sure what you'd grab onto without a spacer there.
** on mine, the axles dont pull thru enough to reinsert the cotter pin. That was after hitting them with the biggest Snap-On impact gun at 140psi. My package didnt come with cotter pins. I need to call DSS tomorrow and find out what's up. There's enough room on the new nuts to grind flush to fit a cotter though
Here's some more pics
drivers side
passenger side
No cotter pin room, using the stock nut (which is same depth as the DSS nut but in a 32mm size socket that I had available)
1. Mark the longer axles for the passenger side. Dont wanna get them mixed up and have to reinstall 2x
2. Torque down the 10mm hex bolts on the outer CV 1st thing after you open the box. I put some blue locite on them since there was no lock washer
3. I called DSS and they said to leave the gold grease cover on the end of the inner CV. That is different than how Injected posted their photo. Its fit tighter without the cover, but DSS said to leave it to protect the inner CV. I also found that means you need to keep going around tightening in star fashion multiple times to achieve the spec'd torque. The gold cover crushes apparently.
4. I found it much easier to use normal socket head bolts on the inner CV adapter plate than the supplied hex bolts. Much easier to tighten with a box wrench. The socket heads prolly work just as well using an L hex key and a short piece of pipe attached.
5. Make sure to put a generous amount of moly grease on the outer CV hub to avoid that dreaded axle click that eatly model G35/350z are notorious for. I also put some moly grease between the diff and the adapter plate as well.
** I used my spacer to brace my 5 tom 3 jaw puller. Makes it a simple job. Not sure what you'd grab onto without a spacer there.
** on mine, the axles dont pull thru enough to reinsert the cotter pin. That was after hitting them with the biggest Snap-On impact gun at 140psi. My package didnt come with cotter pins. I need to call DSS tomorrow and find out what's up. There's enough room on the new nuts to grind flush to fit a cotter though
Here's some more pics
drivers side
passenger side
No cotter pin room, using the stock nut (which is same depth as the DSS nut but in a 32mm size socket that I had available)
Last edited by str8dum1; 11-30-2009 at 05:36 PM.
11-30-2009, 07:30 PM
#124
Yep I got mine too. Thanks for posting but even more thankful that you are such a nice guy to help me out! 
I will be glad to take pictures while you "show" me how it's done on my car. 
I'm hoping my BBK does not interfere - I presume not if I can use your spacer like you did. Also not sure what you mean by "grind flush" to get a cotter pin on there. Is this fitment issue because of the gold grease cover you left on (per DSS recommendation)? Hopefully you've already come up with a solution that is safe and sound.
I will be glad to take pictures while you "show" me how it's done on my car. I'm hoping my BBK does not interfere - I presume not if I can use your spacer like you did. Also not sure what you mean by "grind flush" to get a cotter pin on there. Is this fitment issue because of the gold grease cover you left on (per DSS recommendation)? Hopefully you've already come up with a solution that is safe and sound.
Last edited by rcdash; 11-30-2009 at 07:40 PM.
12-01-2009, 06:05 AM
#129
For what it's worth, here are two comments from my personal car. Use at your own risk:
1. The stock axles generally come out of the hub with out much of a fight, so I gently use a rubber mallet. Be sure to put the nut on the end of the axle to prevent damaging the threads. If you meet resistance, then move to a puller.
2. My cotter pins would not fit either - I used safety wire.
1. The stock axles generally come out of the hub with out much of a fight, so I gently use a rubber mallet. Be sure to put the nut on the end of the axle to prevent damaging the threads. If you meet resistance, then move to a puller.
2. My cotter pins would not fit either - I used safety wire.
Last edited by Dynosty; 12-01-2009 at 06:08 AM. Reason: Added pic
12-01-2009, 06:21 AM
#130
Bri- what are you mounting the puller against to push the axle out of the hub?
This is what the FSM says:
REMOVAL
1. Remove tire from vehicle with power tool.
2. Remove cotter pin. Then remove lock nut from drive shaft.
3. Remove stabilizer connecting rod mounting bracket bolts and free stabilizer connecting rod.
4. Remove fixing nuts and bolts between side flange and drive shaft with power tool.
5. Using a puller (suitable tool), remove drive shaft from axle.
attached is the pic from the FSM. I just dont know what the puller is bracing against. Looks like there are 6 studs?
Either way, the wheel spacer works like a charm
I just talked to DSS and they said that the grease cover is something new within the past few months. He said not to worry about the cotter pin and wasnt too sure if it was supposed to fit or not. As long as they are torqued to spec its fine.
The 34mm nut from DSS has that thin ring above the 34mm section that could be ground down to the actual 'nut' portion with no negative effect if one wanted to use the cotter.
Otherwise Hal's saftey wire is a great idea. I have some of that at home as well.
This is what the FSM says:
REMOVAL
1. Remove tire from vehicle with power tool.
2. Remove cotter pin. Then remove lock nut from drive shaft.
3. Remove stabilizer connecting rod mounting bracket bolts and free stabilizer connecting rod.
4. Remove fixing nuts and bolts between side flange and drive shaft with power tool.
5. Using a puller (suitable tool), remove drive shaft from axle.
attached is the pic from the FSM. I just dont know what the puller is bracing against. Looks like there are 6 studs?
Either way, the wheel spacer works like a charm
I just talked to DSS and they said that the grease cover is something new within the past few months. He said not to worry about the cotter pin and wasnt too sure if it was supposed to fit or not. As long as they are torqued to spec its fine.
The 34mm nut from DSS has that thin ring above the 34mm section that could be ground down to the actual 'nut' portion with no negative effect if one wanted to use the cotter.
Otherwise Hal's saftey wire is a great idea. I have some of that at home as well.
Last edited by str8dum1; 12-01-2009 at 06:24 AM.
12-01-2009, 11:23 AM
#132
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I've never used a puller, just a punch and a hammer if I can't just pull it out from the inside. Generally they come out very easily. I also haven't had cotter pins in my axles for 3 or 4 years now. A properly torqued axle nut should never come loose.
01-27-2010, 01:17 PM
#137
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My car is at GTM and there was some concern over crushing the rounded cap during the install. Seems like the DSS could have installed a flat cap instead and made thing easier. I'm waiting to hear from Sam on the outcome.
01-27-2010, 01:49 PM
#139
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I understand its just a dust cover but why make it round and have to crush it during the install? Seems like a flat cap would have been better. I guess you have a few miles on yours by now, any issues, thoughts?
01-27-2010, 02:28 PM
#140
i wish, my car has been on stands since october. I did RCDash;s though and he has had no issues with i'm sure a good bit of miles
and now that I think about about, our covers didnt crush. they flattened at the edges but the domed middle isnt much different than stock. But ya, you can tell its a small operation.
Raj's hubs were even machine differently. You can see that the one on the left has a machined groove before the tapered middle, while the one on the right just tapers directly from the top edge.
DSS said not to worry, but that kinda stuff you wouldnt see from a big mass market shop
and now that I think about about, our covers didnt crush. they flattened at the edges but the domed middle isnt much different than stock. But ya, you can tell its a small operation.
Raj's hubs were even machine differently. You can see that the one on the left has a machined groove before the tapered middle, while the one on the right just tapers directly from the top edge.
DSS said not to worry, but that kinda stuff you wouldnt see from a big mass market shop
Last edited by str8dum1; 01-27-2010 at 02:33 PM.