Glex25 Winter Build
I was putting mine together today and I cut the pipe as it was noted in this thread thanks
I spent the whole day trying to find a proper plug for the bypass even a barbed fitting I didn't care I found none. The 1/4 NPT or COMP plugs would not fit. The only plug that would fit was some elbows and T's that had 1/4 MPT. I finally went to NAPA and they had a NPT plug which seems to have a little play but it feels tight once it screwed all the way down.
Can anyone shed any light on this conundrum.
I still have to pickup the pressure collars for the tube that goes from the T-Housing to the Plate and weld the small pipe closed.
Here are some pics so people can get a idea
For the guys that went from a FI'd stock compression motor tuned with a Haltech to a FI'd lower compression motor.
Did you guys have to retune for the lower compression motor?
did you wait until after the break in(No Boost, 4000RPM Limiter enabled)?
Will the Haltech automatically compensate for a tune that was made with 600cc if you change them out for a 800CC and you change the injector size in the proper tables?
Might get the call tomorrow to pick up the block/heads from M2race
I spent the whole day trying to find a proper plug for the bypass even a barbed fitting I didn't care I found none. The 1/4 NPT or COMP plugs would not fit. The only plug that would fit was some elbows and T's that had 1/4 MPT. I finally went to NAPA and they had a NPT plug which seems to have a little play but it feels tight once it screwed all the way down.
Can anyone shed any light on this conundrum.
I still have to pickup the pressure collars for the tube that goes from the T-Housing to the Plate and weld the small pipe closed.
Here are some pics so people can get a idea
For the guys that went from a FI'd stock compression motor tuned with a Haltech to a FI'd lower compression motor.
Did you guys have to retune for the lower compression motor?
did you wait until after the break in(No Boost, 4000RPM Limiter enabled)?
Will the Haltech automatically compensate for a tune that was made with 600cc if you change them out for a 800CC and you change the injector size in the proper tables?
Might get the call tomorrow to pick up the block/heads from M2race
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Time to update
Was forced to do headwork since the valves were pitted because the previous owner had let the motor sit in his backyard.
Supertech Inconel Valves (Flat)
Ferrea Valve seals
HR Valve Springs
Serdi Valve Job
No porting
Changed up some other parts:
DW 800cc Injectors
Southbend DXD Clutch Stage 5 FE
Now I have run into a snag
I was assembling the block today and found out that JWT never included
the dowel pins on their cams.
I sold my Rev-up cams long ago and now I'm stuck.
I tried looking up the part number for the Dowel pins and it seems that it only offered with the cams no seperate part number.
The Revup cams use 4 dowels pins 2 big ones and 2 small ones.
Anyone have any input on this?
Part number perhaps?
The only reference that the dowel is offered separately is in this thread
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...my-engine.html
Was forced to do headwork since the valves were pitted because the previous owner had let the motor sit in his backyard.
Supertech Inconel Valves (Flat)
Ferrea Valve seals
HR Valve Springs
Serdi Valve Job
No porting
Changed up some other parts:
DW 800cc Injectors
Southbend DXD Clutch Stage 5 FE
Now I have run into a snag
I was assembling the block today and found out that JWT never included
the dowel pins on their cams.
I sold my Rev-up cams long ago and now I'm stuck.
I tried looking up the part number for the Dowel pins and it seems that it only offered with the cams no seperate part number.
The Revup cams use 4 dowels pins 2 big ones and 2 small ones.
Anyone have any input on this?
Part number perhaps?
The only reference that the dowel is offered separately is in this thread
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...my-engine.html
Last edited by Glex25; Mar 27, 2010 at 08:33 PM.
I would be giving JWT and earfull. They should have either sent them or informed you that you needed them for the install.
About the injectors: I'm not a guru by any means but going from 600's to 800's shouldn't cause a horrible problem with the tune. If anything it will cause you to be on the safe side of fuel (rich) which is the best side to be if you have to be. The only thing i can think it would affect is the starting. I'm just starting to tune my 800's in osiris and it starts like crap.
About the injectors: I'm not a guru by any means but going from 600's to 800's shouldn't cause a horrible problem with the tune. If anything it will cause you to be on the safe side of fuel (rich) which is the best side to be if you have to be. The only thing i can think it would affect is the starting. I'm just starting to tune my 800's in osiris and it starts like crap.
Hey Glenn, can you contact any of the reputable motor builder shops, like Forged, SP, Injected, or so forth and see if they have any of the dowel pins, leftover, from perhaps a blown motor. Turbo-toys in Florida also has tons of used Z parts. Why not give them a shot 813-695-6665 ask for Jim.
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Got lucky the guy i sold it to is next state over and he hasn't installed them yet so I'm heading out there see if i can remove them easily.
I will post pics of the block later on
I will post pics of the block later on
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So I panicked a little when I was looking at the service manual and it said the dowel pins were on the cams and so did the parts catalog. My mistake was not looking at the cam gears and looking behind so for future reference on the rev-up motors the cam sprockets are the ones that hold the dowel pins.
Here are some pics.
Here are some other pics
Here are some pics.
Here are some other pics
Last edited by Glex25; Mar 28, 2010 at 02:22 PM.
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Got the Nissan RTV on Sunday and 1cockyz and I did some work. I was also missing the 4 small O-Ring Seals that go behind the rear timing cover pick those up Monday and installed the rear timing cover. My kids baseball season has started so every day is either drop them off at a practice or taking them to a game which is cutting into my time.I have also been selling some stuff off so boxing up and shipping has also taken my time by the end of the week i hope to have everything together.
Here are some of the progress pics
I should have the car back in my possession in 3-4 weeks according to the shop so we shall see. Some pics from last week
Here are some of the progress pics
I should have the car back in my possession in 3-4 weeks according to the shop so we shall see. Some pics from last week
Last edited by Glex25; Apr 14, 2010 at 11:48 AM.
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Wanted to get a second opinion to make sure I got all the timing marks correct.
I tried following the manual to a T including the marks on the chains.
If it's wrong let me know before I seal it up
The motor has been sprayed down with some WD40 and put away for the night
I tried following the manual to a T including the marks on the chains.
If it's wrong let me know before I seal it up
The motor has been sprayed down with some WD40 and put away for the night
Looks familiar! Except a few parts that I wish I had....
The timing looks fine. All marks are in the right place, and the cam lobes on cylinder 1 sit as they should. Good luck on the rest of the build!
ross
The timing looks fine. All marks are in the right place, and the cam lobes on cylinder 1 sit as they should. Good luck on the rest of the build!
ross
Timing marks look fine.
Hope the heads are down nice and tight. Do you remember how much you torqued them down? Should be around 92-95 ft/lbs for the L19's. You certainly don't want to worry about heads lifting with 600rwhp under the hood.
Hope the heads are down nice and tight. Do you remember how much you torqued them down? Should be around 92-95 ft/lbs for the L19's. You certainly don't want to worry about heads lifting with 600rwhp under the hood.