I saw the block all bored and honed already today when I dropped off the heads. I asked if he could put the block in the washing machine to make it sparkle. He said he was checking out the crank next. Hopefully not an ati dampener but a fluidampr but thats an entirely different conversation.

 

^conversation that there is something wrong with the ATI dampener? The same one that Injected and Sound Performance use in their race cars?

 

Nothing "wrong with it". Its overdrives the alt, ps. Do you know the ati dampenr is actually tunable? The fluidampr by design can dampen a broader range of harmonics than the ati without alteration. I have had both and prefer the fluidampr, just because its on somebodies racecar doesn't mean its the best for the application. That kind of thinking isn't ideal. He does track days do you think spinning the ps pump 10-15% faster is a good thing? Cavitation isn't good. Both are great products its like picking which supermodel to take home from the bar...if only all us had that option.

 

track cars dont use power steering anyhow

but point taken. It is quite bigger than stock, 3/4" i think. I'd be interested to see the paper that shows that the PS pump will cavitate by using a larger crank pulley.

I dont know about you, but after enough beers every chick i bring home from the bar is a supermodel!

 

Ok I am not absolutely sure about the cavitation but how bout this angle. The higher the rpm the more heat generated so the faster the belt is spinning as well as the pump spinning faster hotter ps fluid in a car that is known for boiling fluid stock. Anyway fighting heat is part of this build with HR headgaskets, pathfinder cooling mod, and the R core koyo. Giovanni did his homework for this.

 

none of those mods will help the power steering from boiling

did you modify the HR headgasket properly to open the stock cooling passages?

 

We haven't even gotten to that part yet.
We just took the block apart 2 days ago and dropped it off at machine shop.
they will do the necessary cut on the block for the HR headgasket.

Our cars come from factory with a power steering cooler if that becomes a issue I will just get a bigger cooler.

Right now I'm more concerned about the crank and waiting to hear back from the machine shop on that situation. Holiday's don't really help on getting information quickly.

 

ya i was really just tryin to figure out what real world data there was on why a larger crank pulley would be bad becuase I had never seen such info and 1cockyz had.

ya good luck gettin anything done between xmas and new years.

 

Been cleaning mating surface of the upper oil pan/rear timing cover/front timing cover.

For the ones that have done this
What have you used to cleaned out all the silicone?
Any solvents?

I can remove the large pieces when I was cleaning most of the parts in gas
but the small crevice I have used a plastic spackling spatula which still leaves a slight amount of silicone behind.

I'm thinking a plastic hard bristle brush with gas but wanted to see if anyone had any better ideas.

 

I use a razor blade and gasket remover and drag the blade at a 45 degree angle.

 

^ that and then scrub with scotch brite pad with some brake cleaner.

 

lacquer thinner is a good solvent to cut silicone. a shop rag and elbow grease does the trick - just wear gloves

good luck with the build.

 

I think that is as good as it's going to get.
I was doing this last night with the garage door open and then a storm came in and had to
close the garage door, I still smell like gas today lol
I still have some gasket material in the throughput holes on the upper oil pan.
I'm going to try some acetone on a small film of gasket material I still have on the lower oil pan.

Anyone seen the white gasket material the factory uses on the lower oil pan? ewwww


Ordered a Crank from Vinnyten
Right now it's just a waiting game on the machine shop

 

billet crank or just a stocker?

 

Didn't even know there was a Billet crank for the VQ35DE unless your stroking the motor.

I ordered a stock crank.

 

Would that be the Cosworth Billet Crank? or is there another? I know BC also makes one, then of course there is the GTM version.

 

Awsome! Good luck!

 

Bump for updates Glen.

 

No updates

Crank shipped on Friday
Waiting to hear on M2race to let me know measurements
so I will know which Calico bearings I need to order so they can do
the final balance.

 

I was putting mine together today and I cut the pipe as it was noted in this thread thanks

I spent the whole day trying to find a proper plug for the bypass even a barbed fitting I didn't care I found none. The 1/4 NPT or COMP plugs would not fit. The only plug that would fit was some elbows and T's that had 1/4 MPT. I finally went to NAPA and they had a NPT plug which seems to have a little play but it feels tight once it screwed all the way down.

Can anyone shed any light on this conundrum.

I still have to pickup the pressure collars for the tube that goes from the T-Housing to the Plate and weld the small pipe closed.

Here are some pics so people can get a idea









For the guys that went from a FI'd stock compression motor tuned with a Haltech to a FI'd lower compression motor.

Did you guys have to retune for the lower compression motor?

did you wait until after the break in(No Boost, 4000RPM Limiter enabled)?

Will the Haltech automatically compensate for a tune that was made with 600cc if you change them out for a 800CC and you change the injector size in the proper tables?


Might get the call tomorrow to pick up the block/heads from M2race