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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

Glex25 Winter Build

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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 04:08 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Timing marks look fine.
Hope the heads are down nice and tight. Do you remember how much you torqued them down? Should be around 92-95 ft/lbs for the L19's. You certainly don't want to worry about heads lifting with 600rwhp under the hood.
Torqued them down to 95ft lbs

Thanks for that info Randy cause I got that info from one
of your old threads where you were asking the same question and Shariff had answered it
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 04:17 AM
  #62  
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Wow, I think i need a cossy..
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 07:29 AM
  #63  
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^ doet you carbon *****
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #64  
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Glen,

What size wheels/tires are you running?
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 01:40 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by ttg35fort
Glen,

What size wheels/tires are you running?
360 Forged Mesh 10's
20x13 +12 offset
20x10 0 offset

345/25/20 Nitto Invo
275/30/20 Nitto Invo


Track setup
Rota Grids 18x10 +15
Toyo R888 305
Toyo RA1 275
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Old Apr 15, 2010 | 01:43 PM
  #66  
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^^^^

Nice!!!
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #67  
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Finally got some time to myself and was able to finish up the motor.
I will not use any sensors that came off this motor and will take them off my
known good running motor that is on my car now. The motor ain't pretty from the
side since the previous owner had let it sit in his backyard.

Here are some pictures of the finished product

Clean bead of Nissan RTV every where












Now as always a question



The little bolt that is all the way to the left is that suppose to be anywhere on the motor?

The one between the 2 stamp marks I just put it there for now until I compare it to my other motor

Last edited by Glex25; Apr 18, 2010 at 03:05 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 03:38 PM
  #68  
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Awesome bro looking good
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 06:19 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by GreenGoblin
Awesome bro looking good
Thanks Danny
I got the motor sling yesterday


The small plug I was pointing to is the front drain plug
I should have looked closer at the Service manual but I thought
it would be as obvious as the other drain plugs
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 04:36 PM
  #70  
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Thinking of doing a leakdown test tomorrow or Thursday.

Any Advice?
What kind of numbers should I be looking at with a cold motor?
Drop of oil on each cylinder before performing the test on a particular cylinder?
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 05:21 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Glex25
Thinking of doing a leakdown test tomorrow or Thursday.

Any Advice?
What kind of numbers should I be looking at with a cold motor?
Drop of oil on each cylinder before performing the test on a particular cylinder?
well on a fresh motor what exactly are you looking for?

i wouldn't worry too much what the numbers are as much as how consistant each cylinder is.

It will probably have a high leakdown since the rings aren't seated to the cylinder walls yet.
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Old Apr 19, 2010 | 06:19 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Glex25
Thinking of doing a leakdown test tomorrow or Thursday.

Any Advice?
What kind of numbers should I be looking at with a cold motor?
Drop of oil on each cylinder before performing the test on a particular cylinder?
I would wait to do a leakdown until you have 500-600 miles on the motor. If it runs smoothly and doesn't burn any oil, I would wait before any leakdown or compression testing.

Build looks good!
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #73  
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Bump. Whats the status of the physical car? Body shop or is that transformation all done?
summer time is here and we gotta roll down to Z-Day my friend.
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 01:19 PM
  #74  
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^ It's going

Just shot a sample of the color today and I'm liking it



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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 02:20 PM
  #75  
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Are using a fiberglass front bumper?

If it is urethane, it seems that it would be hard to get the bumper to fit to the flared front fenders.
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 02:33 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by ttg35fort
Are using a fiberglass front bumper?

If it is urethane, it seems that it would be hard to get the bumper to fit to the flared front fenders.
These are the pieces I'm using
No Urethane here or I wouldn't be able to do what I have to do






Last edited by Glex25; Apr 24, 2010 at 02:34 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 06:29 PM
  #77  
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looking very good homie.
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 06:30 AM
  #78  
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It's gonna look great, I'd only change the mesh to black.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 08:15 PM
  #79  
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Started on pulling out the motor on Tuesday and cleaned the engine bay so it can get sprayed.
Wednesday did some suspension work and also did the solid differential bushing (Which I think took me longer than pulling the motor).



On Saturday I started moving things over from one motor to the other and continued doing the same on Monday. I found some disturbing things such as the driver side manifold missing the lower to 2 nuts and a sizable exhaust leak. You can see the exhaust leak in the second picture.




I have moved almost everything over but have to remove the passenger side wastegate because the power steering bracket bolts will not go on. I still have to move over the lower oil pan and spacer for the oil pick up and flywheel, install the Southbend clutch/pilot bearing/throwout bearing then reinstall back into the car.

Those with the Pathfinder mod how in the hell did you get the connectors for the water temp sensor and cam sensor connected since they are practically touching each other?

Also for those that were able to remove the bottle neck for the Greddy Evo TT what did you have to do? did you cut the bottleneck and weld a 2.75" Flange or did you expand the small bottleneck then weld on a 2.75" flange?

I'm even thinking of sending the pipe to Forged Performance just so they can remove the bottleneck

I would also like to thank my local shop MC Tires for letting me use their lift for 2 days and space for me to do this work
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Old Jul 7, 2010 | 06:13 AM
  #80  
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Car is coming along nicely Gio!! Cant wait to see the finished product.
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