Thats over on Driver....and i am still up in the air on what i am doing. FP short block? Or keep the sleeves and turn the boost down to 12psi

 

can we just see a friggin dyno?

 

Let someone sleeve it that knows what they are doing. I talked to a local machine shop that does not recommend bigger headstuds either, because the risk that comes with them, they recommened stock size L19.

 

 

I think GTM sleeved Albertos and I think Forged did some repair work after the first failure (i used think because I don't know Alberto and I am not sure of the whole story) two shops that know what they are doing still two failures maybe your local machine shop has more experience or knows more than those two shops. The only way i would do sleeves is with a written lifetime warranty against head lift/sleeve drop. i think our platform has a well documented history of sleeve failures, all IMO anyway.

Good luck with your sleeves, i honestly hope you have no issues because it sucks to spend insane amounts of time and money and still have a car that dosent run and needs more time and money and in the end it all could happen again I wouldn't wish it on anyone.

 

Actually, GTM has a well documented history of sleeve failures. The overwhelming majority of sleeved motor failures reported on this forum were GTM motors. Intense, Sound Performance, and Injected Performance don't have the same atrocious failure rate on sleeved motors... And some of those motors have made more power than anything produced by GTM.

 

I have never really head much about anyone else using sleeved motors, it seems most shops even the ones you mentioned push stock sleeves over aftermarket sleeved engines, there must be a reason for that

 

That's because those shops know that sleeved motors are unnecessary for power levels below 800whp.

 

and aftermarket sleeved engines have head lift in more cases than stock sleeved engines at any power level.

I do agree they shouldn't be considered unless you are looking for that 800whp neighbourhood so i guess its risk vs reward, how bad do you want +800whp? I found out the hard way i don't want it bad enough to keep throwing good money at it time and again. Some people have the money and its worth the risk and I have seen lots of my friends sleeved engines done by various shops, in anything from vipers to Subarus have had head lift/sleeves drop then they get the block redecked and they are fine or in in Albertos case the issue comes back and thats my biggest fear right now. I though it was worth the risk my opinion has changed and i feel no matter how good the shop is there is still a risk involved with sleeved engines I suppose that goes with any aftermarket engine but more so with sleeved IMO I don't live close enough to one of those shops to take my car back if there is an issue, any issues are going to cost me $1000 in shipping. This has been beaten to death already and I am not willing to go any further in this discussion, i feel my mind can't be changed that sleeves come with a risk no matter who does them and it seems you think its all about who does the sleeves you might be right but i don't have the desire or bank account to find out either way.

 

I didnt go sleeved. Have not broken the factory ones yet to warrant the sleeved expense/risk . Time will tell and im sure all this frustration and mishaps will be all behind us.

 

GTM also pushes oversized studs. This is my WAG, but I think it has something to do more with the studs then the sleeves. Maybe the removal of just that little bit of block for the bigger studs, is making the block weaker some how between the stud and the sleeve. Its all theory really, until someone figures all this mess out. Or they are no put in dead nuts straight.

Hal's post #4
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...you-using.html

 

haha sick analogy!

 

Excellent point. Intense, SP, and Injected do not use or recommend oversized studs. All three of them recommend L19 studs instead for high power builds. I think this along with sending the blocks to Darton for sleeve install are key to their success with sleeved motors.

 

Anyone know what process Darton uses? Is it the press fit process or is the block heatedand sleeve frozen and dropped in and then they form a solid fit? The heating process works for 2 piece wheels and they don't break loose. I know of a shop that uses the heat/cool method and has had wide success on other platforms, but I'm not sure if any of those others have aluminum blocks.

 

so no dyno?