Needed or not
YES, IVE searched and very little info was usable minus the fact that the threads related were 3-5yrs old lol. But my question is the following???
1. At 450whp DO I NEED A FUEL RETURN SYSTEM??? if not when do i need a FRS??
2. Lastly, has anyone USED the "SEMI" APS TT return system (NOT THE EXTREME KIT) for 500whp and under builds???
thanks in advance. flame suit on even tho im sure i wont need it.
NOTE- for those who dont know heres an explanation of how the semi aps tt frs works.
It does not include a "traditional" fuel return system (i.e. pressure regulater at the end of the rails with a fuel line going back to the tank). It places the FPR in the tank and maintains a target pressure by running a LONG vacum signal to the gas tank... Thus, instead of routing excess fuel to the rails and then returning it back to the tank, the presure regulation is in the tank so there is no need to return it.
1. At 450whp DO I NEED A FUEL RETURN SYSTEM??? if not when do i need a FRS??
2. Lastly, has anyone USED the "SEMI" APS TT return system (NOT THE EXTREME KIT) for 500whp and under builds???
thanks in advance. flame suit on even tho im sure i wont need it.
NOTE- for those who dont know heres an explanation of how the semi aps tt frs works.
It does not include a "traditional" fuel return system (i.e. pressure regulater at the end of the rails with a fuel line going back to the tank). It places the FPR in the tank and maintains a target pressure by running a LONG vacum signal to the gas tank... Thus, instead of routing excess fuel to the rails and then returning it back to the tank, the presure regulation is in the tank so there is no need to return it.
you are right in that grey area for RFS at 450rwhp on a TT setup.....
Is it required? No.
Would it make the tune (and fuel pressure) more stable? Absolutely
So there is no right answer. That being said, RFS would be "safer" and a little more controlable to tune......
BTW, by tune I am not necessarily saying your peak power tune, I mean the drivability tune (especially part throttle, but in the higher rpm area)
just my $.02
tom
Is it required? No.
Would it make the tune (and fuel pressure) more stable? Absolutely
So there is no right answer. That being said, RFS would be "safer" and a little more controlable to tune......
BTW, by tune I am not necessarily saying your peak power tune, I mean the drivability tune (especially part throttle, but in the higher rpm area)
just my $.02
tom
I'd say a fuel return would be a good idea. I think I am in the gray area at 414. You are really pushing it at 450. A basic fuel return is not that expensive. I'm not sure about the APS regulator you are speaking about but a fuel return is more mainstream and if you run into tuning issues it would be easier to rule out fuel related problems because if it being more common.
My answer depends on the rest of the setup. At 450whp, boost will likely be low so the factory static fuel pressure won't present a problem.
If you are using a good ems such as Haltech, I would suggest throwing in a Walbro and a set of DW800 drop in injectors. This can be tuned without trouble to drive perfect. This also gives you room to grow if you decide to turn it up more in the future and add a RFS.
If you are using a piggyback/utec, then the car will drive better if you use a fuel return system and smaller injectors.
If you are using a good ems such as Haltech, I would suggest throwing in a Walbro and a set of DW800 drop in injectors. This can be tuned without trouble to drive perfect. This also gives you room to grow if you decide to turn it up more in the future and add a RFS.
If you are using a piggyback/utec, then the car will drive better if you use a fuel return system and smaller injectors.
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Depends on a number of factors, but I can say that those will not support 450whp on our dyno dynamics. DW600s likely will, but be careful as they will be near max duty. Also, a return fuel system can help with 600s on the UTEC as it lowers base fuel pressure when in vacuum.
+1, my DW600s were 98-99% IDC with dual pumps and CJM stage 2 RFS at 460whp,11.5 AFR on a dyno dynamics. Granted this was with a less efficient supercharger, but still too small to anything close to that power.
Depends on a number of factors, but I can say that those will not support 450whp on our dyno dynamics. DW600s likely will, but be careful as they will be near max duty. Also, a return fuel system can help with 600s on the UTEC as it lowers base fuel pressure when in vacuum.
als just incase u need to know my build is as follow...
greddy tt kit
aps 500 injector
hks boost gauge
aem uego wideband
strup 2.5 testpipes
utec
utec map sensor
stage 3 clutch
txs boost controller
walbro 255 lph fuel pump
8.8:1 wiseco pistons
eagle h-beam rods
apr head studs
greddy oil catch can
ACL rod bearings
ACL main bearings
ACL thrust washer
cometic headgasket
jic single 3in exhuast
1 step colder spark plugs
Last edited by De La Money; Dec 16, 2009 at 12:36 PM.

You can give it a shot and I wish you the best - I am just trying to save you two trips in for tuning (the first, aborted for lack of fuel).
Also fyi, a 600hp vehicle will not make 475whp on our Dyno Dynamics. What dyno you tune on will make a difference in the perceived "whp" output - but obviously no difference in crank hp.
Same reason they sell a "1000hp fuel system" with 880cc injectors at 4bar... and that you can find other manufacturers selling "1000hp" turbo kits that will never make 1000hp. People can say whatever they want, and as long as the majority is never going to actually try and do what they claim - then they are ok. 
You can give it a shot and I wish you the best - I am just trying to save you two trips in for tuning (the first, aborted for lack of fuel).
Also fyi, a 600hp vehicle will not make 475whp on our Dyno Dynamics. What dyno you tune on will make a difference in the perceived "whp" output - but obviously no difference in crank hp.

You can give it a shot and I wish you the best - I am just trying to save you two trips in for tuning (the first, aborted for lack of fuel).
Also fyi, a 600hp vehicle will not make 475whp on our Dyno Dynamics. What dyno you tune on will make a difference in the perceived "whp" output - but obviously no difference in crank hp.
Most stock APS kits made decent power.
I added a FRS and it actually lowered my whp potential but I still ended with a conservative 400whp.
Maybe compression is a factor in the equation?
I added a FRS and it actually lowered my whp potential but I still ended with a conservative 400whp.
Maybe compression is a factor in the equation?
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