HAL I don't believe I'm on a beta box. If you believe this to be true then I will send it in for an exchange so we can compare apples with apples.

HAL so just to confirm the output works okay from your testing. If that is the case I will send mine in for an RA.

 

Was there ever a solution to this issue? I am trying to hook up a relay to my clutch switch that will activate the aux rev limit (hoping to work out some sort of "launch control" - just for kicks). My plan was to use the Haltech generic output to ground the relay coil - the idea being that I could have the aux rev limit active only when the clutch pedal was in and when the CAN vehicle speed was below say 2 mph.

I tried hooking it all up today and it didn't work. The relay activates whether the Generic Output is active or not, which means that it is grounded all the time. So the aux rev limit activates when the clutch is in regardless of whether or not the Generic Output is active.

 

why not wire the clutch switch to the actual 2step input? it works just fine.

My generic output stayed grounded when I had the key in the on position but car not running. had my meth control on it so the pump was running when it wasnt supposed to be. ended up using the fuel pump power and the haltech trigger. then it worked properly.

 

What is the 2 step input? Is that different than Aux Rev Limit?

I was using a relay because the clutch switch gives 12V and the aux rev limit input looks for a ground input as a trigger. So I was using the relay to switch the aux input to ground. Am I missing something? I am not very good with electrical admittedly.

 

Since the clutch pedal is a grounding switch you can use it to ground a relay that will connect the 2 wires for the haltech aux rev limiter.

So 12v source to relay, ground wire from relay to clutch switch. 2 wires from the haltech go to the open connections on the relay. When clutch wire is grounded the switch is closed (continued) and then the rev limiter works.

 

Ya like that^. you dont use the haltech generic output. you use a relay on the aux rev limiter wiring from the clutch switch.

 

Ok you guys are completely missing the point. I'm not retarded I know how to hook up a relay and I have already done so successfully. I am trying to use the output wire so that I can make the rev limit conditional; i.e only active when the vehicle speed is below 3 mph. Apparently that is not possible because the relay is able to find ground regardless of wether not the output is active.

 

Ahh ok

I went back to post 1 and thats exactly what my haltech was doing as well. But only grounded when the car was not running. so as soon as started the car, it would trigger my meth pump. Luckily no meth in the tank. But once the car was running, it wouldnt stay grounded. Hal says there was no problem with my box though, so who knows.

Have you tried to diode isolate?

you can use a window switch instead.
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=194

 

If you are worried about it engaging the clutch switch on shifts then you are worrying for no reason.

Even if you pushed the clutch that far down (which usually isn't the case during shifting since the clutch switch isn't pressed until the clutch is down almost to the floor) it can't take the 7k rpms you are at when you shift and force them down to your aux rev limit. The engine won't just stop working due to it's momentum as well as the fact that you probably temporarily lift the gas pedal on shifts.

Hal uses it without any modifiers like you are trying to do and has never had a problem. I thought the same thing until he explained to me that the rev limiter can't take 7k rpms on a shift and drop it to 3k since it would have to stop the crank moving. It's only an electrical rev limit, not physical.

 

i'd imagine an ignition cut would make your shifts feel pretty jerky.

i never tried it on my Haltech, but if Jeff uses it with no issue, then its prolly just fine.

 

Binder I completely agree, and you are correct, there is no effect on shifts when you are using the lower clutch switch for the two step.

However my plan was to use the upper clutch switch, not the lower one. The problem with the lower one is that there is some distance between when the switch is active and when the clutch engages. So unless you quickly dump the clutch, the RPMs shoot up before the clutch engages and it negates the purpose of the two step. My idea was that if I use the upper switch, it will give me time to slip the clutch a little before the aux rev limit disables. A vehicle speed based trigger would be perfect because it will work consistently regardless of how much you slip the clutch.

 

I am not able to use ignition cut because I am using copy thru timing in the vacuum zones. I want to try it though! The fuel cut aux rev limit surges up and down a lot when you give it full throttle and I was only able to build just a little positive manifold pressure.

 

Does ignition cut build more boost at a standstill than fuel cut? I imagine it would. Do you also get backfires? Is it hard on the engine?

I have been thinking about this for a little bit and what I would like to try (if I can get the output to conditionally trigger the aux rev limit) is:

1. Wire the Aux rev limit to the upper clutch switch
2. Use the front wheel speed sensors as the conditional variable

This would allow me to set the vehicle speed trigger to something just below the theoretical speed of the car at the aux rev limit RPM in first gear. So in other words, if the aux rev limit is 3000 RPM and I calculate based on gear ratios and tire diameters that the car should be traveling say 15 mph in first gear at 3000 RPM when there is zero tire slip, then I could set the generic output to be "ON" when the front wheel speed sensor reads below ~13 mph or something. This would effectively limit the engine RPM to 3000 until the rear tires get the chance to "hook up", at which point (assuming the clutch is all the way out) the aux rev limit would disengage.

The above, combined with speed based boost control (which I already have setup to limit my boost in 1st gear to 3.5 psi) should give some semblance of actual launch control.

At least that's what makes sense in my brain. I would love to experiment with this "launch control" in the real world, if i could just get the generic output to disable the aux rev limit!

 

Lets talk about that. Please elaborate.

Somehow the relay is still able to ground through the output wire even when it is "off". I was playing around with the DMM while I was wiring it in and I seem to recall checking continuity to ground through the output wire when it was "off" and getting something like 75 ohms (an a beeeeeep from the DMM). Maybe that is not enough resistance and the relay coil is still able to find enough of a ground? Would an additional resistor help?

 

diode only let current pass in 1 direction. they use them in car alarms etc. i dont see why you couldnt put them on the ground side to block flow back to the haltech. you'd have to do a google search as i'm sure thats a common generic question on how to isolate grounds.

Diodes are only 1.20$ at radio shack. I have to use them in my G35 on my trailer wiring. Without them, when i hit the turn signal, voltage would go back thru the harness and the cruise control would think I was hitting the brakes and disengage.


Too bad Haltech USA is soo slow with getting any repairs done. Over the winter you could send in your box with explicit videos showing the generic output allowing a ground when not active.

 

oh ya, it wouldn't work for that upper clutch switch.

and yes, you pretty much just have to drop the clutch with it.

Maybe get one of those switches that has a string and winds out so you can have it attached to a mounting point on the clutch arm.

 

Diode would be the way to go.
I'm really considering running the two step to an external non clutch related switch all together. Just run it up under the shift boot with a good amount of excess cable to the shift **** and activate it when you want. That way you can slip the clutch for days etc.

 

^For what it's worth.. I am using the top clutch switch, which works great for slipping the clutch on a launch while using the twostep. As soon as the clutch is fully released the twostep disengages - perfect!

 

is yours wired directly to the haltech or are you using a relay with the generic output?

 

I tried 1.10.1 firmware yesterday. Not only does the output still not work properly, but with 1.10.1 my CAN wheel speed sensors stopped working altogether. So I am back on 1.06.2 which is what Hal sent me months ago and is the only firmware I have ever tried which actually had working wheel speed sensors.

When the generic output is active, it reads continuity to ground but it shows ~75 ohms. When the generic output is NOT active, it is exactly the same. So as far as I can tell the generic output does nothing. When I turn the key off and the Haltech shuts down a few seconds later, the resistance to ground through the output wire drops to ~0.3 ohms.