Haltech Output Wire
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Haltech Output Wire
Hello, I have been stumped for a while now about why i cannot get my output wire on my haltech to control my water/meth injection. i have been searching around and it seems as tho i am the only person in the history of haltech to have problems with the output wire. the problem is, it seems to always emit a ground signal. even with the car off. the problem with that is; my water injection runs off of a 12v 30a auto relay. all the wires are hooked up correctly on the relay, but when i go to hook the ground from haltech to the ground pin on the relay, the water injection fires right up.
i did some tests with the haltech ground wire. i used a multimeter and ran one pin to the positive terminal of my battery, the other to the ground wire. it instantly read the battery volts. my understanding is that it should only ground out and show the battery volts when a set parameter is met in haltech (ex. throttle > 50% etc). im using the current 1.04 firmware and up to date software on my lap top. ive gone through and changed settings/parameters on the input/output settings in haltech and get no changes. just constant ground.
so, since the ground wire gets constant ground to my relay, ive had to interrupt the groud wire and use coolingmists provided boost relay to activate it. the problem with that is, its incredibly inconsistent. im going to retune my set up soon and would like to get the water/meth injection consistent for my next tune.
a shot in the dark, but, thoughts?
heres a pic of how it is wired.
<a href="http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y68/charlesdean1/?action=view¤t=untitled-2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y68/charlesdean1/untitled-2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
i did some tests with the haltech ground wire. i used a multimeter and ran one pin to the positive terminal of my battery, the other to the ground wire. it instantly read the battery volts. my understanding is that it should only ground out and show the battery volts when a set parameter is met in haltech (ex. throttle > 50% etc). im using the current 1.04 firmware and up to date software on my lap top. ive gone through and changed settings/parameters on the input/output settings in haltech and get no changes. just constant ground.
so, since the ground wire gets constant ground to my relay, ive had to interrupt the groud wire and use coolingmists provided boost relay to activate it. the problem with that is, its incredibly inconsistent. im going to retune my set up soon and would like to get the water/meth injection consistent for my next tune.
a shot in the dark, but, thoughts?
heres a pic of how it is wired.
<a href="http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y68/charlesdean1/?action=view¤t=untitled-2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y68/charlesdean1/untitled-2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
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im using cooling mist. but it shouldnt matter what kind im using. haltech just isnt running my relay properly. ive tested out the relay, works just fine. so we can exclude that from the diagnose. ...or so i think.
#4
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i dont understand why you are using the hobbs switch. You input the turn on boost level using the haltech params.
Does it work if you just ground the relay bypassing the hobbs switch?
I also wouldnt use the Haltech as the ground for all that power (+15A) either. I;d use the haltech ground to ground a signal relay that flips the main relay that has the 15A+ draw to it for the pump.
screen shot of you setup screen maybe?
Does it work if you just ground the relay bypassing the hobbs switch?
I also wouldnt use the Haltech as the ground for all that power (+15A) either. I;d use the haltech ground to ground a signal relay that flips the main relay that has the 15A+ draw to it for the pump.
screen shot of you setup screen maybe?
#6
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You are using the ground/green wire of the Haltech aux output to ground your entire setup? Tell me it ain't so!
That will shove a boat load of current through the Haltech aux output gnd signal. It is only rated to 800 ma. and may now be fused in the latched position.
You need to use relays as str8dum1 suggests but it may be too late at this point ... I would contact Hal@IP and see what he can do for you in terms of repair.
That will shove a boat load of current through the Haltech aux output gnd signal. It is only rated to 800 ma. and may now be fused in the latched position.
You need to use relays as str8dum1 suggests but it may be too late at this point ... I would contact Hal@IP and see what he can do for you in terms of repair.
Last edited by rcdash; 01-08-2010 at 10:22 PM.
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You are using the ground/green wire of the Haltech aux output to ground your entire setup? Tell me it ain't so!
That will shove a boat load of current through the Haltech aux output gnd signal. It is only rated to 800 ma. and may now be fused in the latched position.
You need to use relays as str8dum1 suggests but it may be too late at this point ... I would contact Hal@IP and see what he can do for you in terms of repair.
That will shove a boat load of current through the Haltech aux output gnd signal. It is only rated to 800 ma. and may now be fused in the latched position.
You need to use relays as str8dum1 suggests but it may be too late at this point ... I would contact Hal@IP and see what he can do for you in terms of repair.
hal and I have tried battling this one for a few months now. nothing has come of it. we've tried many things and the most we can draw from it is to send him my haltech to make sure the output wire is working at all.
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i dont understand why you are using the hobbs switch. You input the turn on boost level using the haltech params.
Does it work if you just ground the relay bypassing the hobbs switch?
I also wouldnt use the Haltech as the ground for all that power (+15A) either. I;d use the haltech ground to ground a signal relay that flips the main relay that has the 15A+ draw to it for the pump.
screen shot of you setup screen maybe?
Does it work if you just ground the relay bypassing the hobbs switch?
I also wouldnt use the Haltech as the ground for all that power (+15A) either. I;d use the haltech ground to ground a signal relay that flips the main relay that has the 15A+ draw to it for the pump.
screen shot of you setup screen maybe?
wired it up and it is the same as hal instructed. the hobbs switch is there because if i just ran the output wire to the ground pin on the relay, it will activate. constantly. it constantly provides a ground signal. the haltech params are not responding.
thoughts?
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and yes, it works if i just ground the relay pin. so the relay is working just fine. is that what you're asking? the problem is, if i connect the haltech output wire to the ground pin, its activated. with the car off. with the car on. all the time.
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i'll try 1.06. i see its relatively new on IP's site. thanks. any other input?
im not grounding the entire set up off the haltech output. the pump is grounded. im only triggering a relay with the output wire.
im not grounding the entire set up off the haltech output. the pump is grounded. im only triggering a relay with the output wire.
Last edited by deanfootlong; 01-08-2010 at 10:46 PM.
#11
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you use either the Hobbs switch or the Haltech. you do not use both.
You are making this too complicated. There is no reason to even use the Haltech if the Hobbs switch works, as you are using boost in both situation to turn on the meth pump.
Either remove the Hobbs switch and ground the relay with the Haltech trigger, or remove the Haltech and use the Hobbs switch to flip the relay.
But sounds like the output ground is fried, esp if you ever did try to ground more than low amperage loads.
Simple fix, just use the hobbs. otherwise, send the unit back to Hal. If you guys have been talking for a while, not much more we can do on the forums.
You are making this too complicated. There is no reason to even use the Haltech if the Hobbs switch works, as you are using boost in both situation to turn on the meth pump.
Either remove the Hobbs switch and ground the relay with the Haltech trigger, or remove the Haltech and use the Hobbs switch to flip the relay.
But sounds like the output ground is fried, esp if you ever did try to ground more than low amperage loads.
Simple fix, just use the hobbs. otherwise, send the unit back to Hal. If you guys have been talking for a while, not much more we can do on the forums.
Last edited by str8dum1; 01-09-2010 at 05:37 AM.
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you use either the Hobbs switch or the Haltech. you do not use both.
You are making this too complicated. There is no reason to even use the Haltech if the Hobbs switch works, as you are using boost in both situation to turn on the meth pump.
Either remove the Hobbs switch and ground the relay with the Haltech trigger, or remove the Haltech and use the Hobbs switch to flip the relay.
But sounds like the output ground is fried, esp if you ever did try to ground more than low amperage loads.
Simple fix, just use the hobbs. otherwise, send the unit back to Hal. If you guys have been talking for a while, not much more we can do on the forums.
You are making this too complicated. There is no reason to even use the Haltech if the Hobbs switch works, as you are using boost in both situation to turn on the meth pump.
Either remove the Hobbs switch and ground the relay with the Haltech trigger, or remove the Haltech and use the Hobbs switch to flip the relay.
But sounds like the output ground is fried, esp if you ever did try to ground more than low amperage loads.
Simple fix, just use the hobbs. otherwise, send the unit back to Hal. If you guys have been talking for a while, not much more we can do on the forums.
i dont think you're understanding whats going on here. maybe im not being clear. it is wired up exactly as hal and IP instructed. i stated in the original post why i dont want to use the hobbs switch. the only thing it has tried to ground is a relay and it never worked since day one.
what im looking for is any other tests i can do with the output wire and a multimeter to see if i can get it to work, rather than try multiple relay set ups and still end with the same result. its wired up correctly and should be working just fine witht his relay set up, per Hal.
#15
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Ya not very clear.
liek i said you have 2 choices
1) use the Hobbs switch to control the meth pump
2) use the Haltech to control the meth pump
you do not use both.
If the Haltech doesnt work (which is the case as your 2simple MM test has shown) then 2 choices as well
1) send it in to get fixed
2) dont worry about it and use the Hobbs switch to control the meth pump
** also, you connected your haltech directly to the relay and it still didnt work properly, correct? If you did that, then yes your Haltech output ground is bad (assuming you settings in the software are correct)
liek i said you have 2 choices
1) use the Hobbs switch to control the meth pump
2) use the Haltech to control the meth pump
you do not use both.
If the Haltech doesnt work (which is the case as your 2simple MM test has shown) then 2 choices as well
1) send it in to get fixed
2) dont worry about it and use the Hobbs switch to control the meth pump
** also, you connected your haltech directly to the relay and it still didnt work properly, correct? If you did that, then yes your Haltech output ground is bad (assuming you settings in the software are correct)
Last edited by str8dum1; 01-09-2010 at 09:30 AM.
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Ya not very clear.
liek i said you have 2 choices
1) use the Hobbs switch to control the meth pump
2) use the Haltech to control the meth pump
you do not use both.
If the Haltech doesnt work (which is the case as your 2simple MM test has shown) then 2 choices as well
1) send it in to get fixed
2) dont worry about it and use the Hobbs switch to control the meth pump
** also, you connected your haltech directly to the relay and it still didnt work properly, correct? If you did that, then yes your Haltech output ground is bad (assuming you settings in the software are correct)
liek i said you have 2 choices
1) use the Hobbs switch to control the meth pump
2) use the Haltech to control the meth pump
you do not use both.
If the Haltech doesnt work (which is the case as your 2simple MM test has shown) then 2 choices as well
1) send it in to get fixed
2) dont worry about it and use the Hobbs switch to control the meth pump
** also, you connected your haltech directly to the relay and it still didnt work properly, correct? If you did that, then yes your Haltech output ground is bad (assuming you settings in the software are correct)
you got it. thats correct. i'd use the hobbs switch but its very inconsistent. sometimes it turns on at 2 psi, sometimes its 7. know of a better one i can use? when i pull my stock motor out, i'll send the haltech to Hal. for now, its my preferred DD.
#20
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Deanfootlong,
I had the first gen red box ECU with v1.0 of the firmware and had it setup to turn on my thermo fans via the IPDM which requires a ground trigger like that is outputed via the Haltech. This worked perfectly and was setup like the image attached allowing the fans to come on 90 and then stay on until temp dropped to 82.
I received a new silver unit with 1.06. Configured the same and had the same issue as you. The ground output was always grounded and hence my fans would come on straight away.
Not the answer you are after but hopefully puts your mind at ease as your not the only one having this issue.
I had the first gen red box ECU with v1.0 of the firmware and had it setup to turn on my thermo fans via the IPDM which requires a ground trigger like that is outputed via the Haltech. This worked perfectly and was setup like the image attached allowing the fans to come on 90 and then stay on until temp dropped to 82.
I received a new silver unit with 1.06. Configured the same and had the same issue as you. The ground output was always grounded and hence my fans would come on straight away.
Not the answer you are after but hopefully puts your mind at ease as your not the only one having this issue.
Last edited by MR RIZK; 01-13-2010 at 03:13 AM.