This is not a dreamer thread, but I am starting it a bit early. I've been collecting parts, researching, and planning since June, and I'm almost ready for the actual install. The car is up on jack stands right now, and I'm slowly starting to disassemble things, but it's cold as hell right now. It's no biggie to me though, The car won't see the street untill late march at the earliest anyway.

My goals with the car is to make a fun street cruiser (weekend warrior, whatever you want to call it). It'll be more go than show, as I want to retain a clean, simple look to it. It already has some audio work, and will receive some more. Some nice wheels and suspension will round off this turbo build as well.

Power Goal: ~400whp.

Hitting 400hp is not important to me, but having a conservative tune is. I'm running on the stock block until next winter, when I plan to build. How much I build depends on how well the business does this year

* = purchased

-* APS TT tuner kit, Old BB turbos. Bought used off of a reputable member here
-* APS 3.5" down/testpipes
-* Custom 3" dual exhaust with Tanabe exits.
-* Forged actuators. w/ 12psi and 7psi springs.
-* AAM Stage 1 Fuel Rail Return System
-* Walbro 255lph
-* RC 750cc Injectors
-* TurboXS Utech
-* Autometer Nexus Guages
- Custom Oil Cooler
- Koyo Racing Radiator


More to come, as I get ready to actually get everything in the car.

 

Cool. Put up some pics of your car and the parts you got now so we got at least something to stare at. Whoot!

 

I almost have the same set up.. But mine is a Greddy Tuner kit with 600 injectors. You should have noooo problem getting to the 400whp goal.. Good luck and post pics when able.

 

no pics, and just parts list = dreamers thread

 

Heh, I'll post some pics tonight. Right now, all of the parts are just laying around in my garage, waiting to either be cleaned, installed, or both.

I'm going to start stripping the interior as well, as I want to do some sound deadening to counter the increased interior noise the exhaust is going to generate.

 

make sure to have those turbos inspected

 

Yep, that's on my todo list for next week. Who should I look for to inspect them? Will any local performance shop do, or do I need to send them into APS?

 

Send them to APS.

 

With that setup 400rwhp is easy. We made 574rwhp @14psi on a stock block with meth(I think that's the record). Best of luck to you and I'm in for the pics.

 

He doesn't need to send them all the way to Australia. They aren't anything special, just garrett BB turbos. He could send them to ATP Turbo if he wants piece of mind.

 

Yeah, I'm talking to a guy at IPS Motorsports in Columbus about taking a look at them, and sending them off if they need to. They're the closest APS authorized dealer I could find. That might come in handy if I need to order any other parts.

 

My mistake, I didn't notice he had the old kit. I thought he was running the newer turbos.

 

It's warmed up a bit out here in Ohio, and the girlfriend isn't here tonight, so I started to disassemble the car. I took some pics, but my computer is not liking my camera tonight. I'll upload progress whenever I get it figured out.

 

 

Is that really necessary? I'm sure there are other ways that you could pad your post count.

 

Either way, the new ones are shitty thrust bearing turbos and pretty much any turbo builder could inspect and "fix" those if need be.

 

Progress as it stands is minimal. I'm ready to take the intake plenum off so I can get to the fuel system. I don't have any good painters tape and shop towels yet, so I figured that would be a good place to stop. Check the AAM fuel rails for added affect






I decided to remove my mudflaps. They've been on the car since I've had it. It looks pretty freakin gross under there. This isn't representative of how I treat the car, but it's slightly representative of how dirty it is right now. I'm definitely spending some time cleaning the engine bay. and underbody.

Before:



After:



I'll clean it up a bit sometime this weekend and have an actual after shot, for anyone who's considering removing them.




By the way... every time I put my car up, I second-guess my jack stand positioning. Does this look right to you? I orignially had them back a little further where the notch for the jack is, but I noticed how close to the middle of the car it was. This position is just at the edge of where the mudflaps would be attached, and seems more stable with it being closer to the weight of the engine. Normally I put them on the black suspension piece (is that an LCA?), but since I'll be putting the back up later, I didn't want to risk it rocking and falling.





And, here's the newest edition to my garage. It's my Girlfriend's daughter's 4th birthday Sunday. I didn't get one of these untill I was like 6. Lucky girl.



I hope she doesn't actually think this thing is getting a spot in the garage.

 

Give me a break, jeez I'm a software engineer so I know it's not tough, but I'm running Linux and this cheap camera's USB subsystem keeps throwing errors. I finally got it though, so no worries!

 

As far as the splashguard removal. I'm sure a clay bar can clean that right up.

The factory jack point is where you ALWAYS want your jackstands. I position my jackstands just inside the lip with the notches on it. I have the jackstand turned 90 degrees from how you have it to more evenly distribute the weight. I've had the motor out of my car twice with the jackstands setup like this with no issue.

You are planning on pulling the motor for the install right?

 

I don't plan to, unless I run into trouble. I've seen people do it successfully without pulling, so I'm confident I can do it. I have really small hands and arms that squeeze into unbelievable places. I used to be able to do the spark plug and header swap on an LS1 with no problems