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Old 01-26-2010, 06:48 AM
  #21  
Boosted Performance
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
its crazy that it takes 4.5psi to make the same HP as a 370z with a few hundred bucks in bolt ons
Keep in mind that this was a street tune, with timing pulled way back. I did not care if the setup was making a ton of power, I just wanted to make sure everything was working properly.

After a couple of problem free months I bumped the boost up to about 8psi, and ran it for the rest of the year, again, problem free.


EDIT:

I should have some big numbers for you guys soon. MI35th (Don) is installing a kit right now, the car is built and will be tuned by Hal @ IP. I think he is hoping for 600whp.

Last edited by Boosted Performance; 01-26-2010 at 07:00 AM.
Old 01-26-2010, 07:31 AM
  #22  
rcdash
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HR/VHR motors make their power above 6.5-7k... not the same as making that power throughout the rev band - it's all about the area under the curve

bp, can you clarify what you mean about the optional turbo? The upgraded turbo is not in the same location?

Last edited by rcdash; 01-26-2010 at 07:35 AM.
Old 01-26-2010, 07:39 AM
  #23  
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my 2 cents:
>I don't see this being superior to APS or PL kits.
>IC is small....what's the point of being able to use a larger turbo with such a small IC?
> how is the turbo mounted? Looks to be completely held in place by the exhaust components?
> is the turbo protected in anyway? At least the APS kit has a skid plate in it's design


I don't want to sound negative towards this kit, I just don't see it being a viable option given all the kits currently on the market
Old 01-26-2010, 07:52 AM
  #24  
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Well,

1. no one in their right mind would purchase from APS at the moment given how hard it is to get replacement parts.

2. the ease of install for the PL kits is questionable given the threads to date - not just a bolt on affair.

3. the cost is supposed to be less.

4. there has been significant attention to detail, such as the oil drain reservoir to prevent smoking.

5. I really like the accessibility of the turbo. My kit basically requires that the motor be dropped!

Questions:

1. I would like to know what testing has been done to identify if boost creep is an issue.

2. i would like clarification on how the turbo is held in place - stainless steel exhaust components may be enough...

3. i would be interested in knowing the flexibility for different turbos.

I think this kit may be more viable than any other, esp for those on stock blocks...

Last edited by rcdash; 01-26-2010 at 07:56 AM.
Old 01-26-2010, 08:09 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Zivman
my 2 cents:
>I don't see this being superior to APS or PL kits.
That is your opinion, we are all entitled to one.

Originally Posted by Zivman
>IC is small....what's the point of being able to use a larger turbo with such a small IC?
Really? How is this one:


Rated to flow 1300cfm or 1000hp.

Originally Posted by Zivman
> how is the turbo mounted? Looks to be completely held in place by the exhaust components?
How are the other turbos mounted? Think about it, what would happen if you attach the turbo to the chassis? Hint: engine/exhaust moves.

Originally Posted by Zivman
> is the turbo protected in anyway? At least the APS kit has a skid plate in it's design
No it is not, it sits plenty hight, so there is no chance of it hitting anything. I have driven over some massive Wall Mart speed bumps without any issues.

Originally Posted by Zivman
I don't want to sound negative towards this kit, I just don't see it being a viable option given all the kits currently on the market

Again, this is your opinion. If you wish, follow the link in my signature it will take you through the entire build, from the first tac weld to the install.

Last edited by Boosted Performance; 01-26-2010 at 08:38 AM.
Old 01-26-2010, 08:23 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by rcdash

bp, can you clarify what you mean about the optional turbo? The upgraded turbo is not in the same location?
What I mean by that is if one is going to be boosting a stock block, they don't need a turbo that can make 800hp. So what I mean is is turbo option rather than upgrade. Same thing goes for the FMIC, the one in this thread will support 450whp easly, again why go with an FMIC that will support 1000hp.

The turbo choice does not change the price, the FMIC does by about $140.



Originally Posted by rcdash
Well,

1. no one in their right mind would purchase from APS at the moment given how hard it is to get replacement parts.

2. the ease of install for the PL kits is questionable given the threads to date - not just a bolt on affair.

3. the cost is supposed to be less.

4. there has been significant attention to detail, such as the oil drain reservoir to prevent smoking.

5. I really like the accessibility of the turbo. My kit basically requires that the motor be dropped!

Thank you for pointing out the benifits. And yes, this will cost $1200 less (if not more) than the other top mount turbo kits.

Questions:

Originally Posted by rcdash
1. I would like to know what testing has been done to identify if boost creep is an issue.
I have driven the car all of last year without any boost creep issues. This was with a 38mm Tial waste gate. I ran the kit at 4.5psi at first, and if one was to have boost creep this is where it would show up. With low boost, most of the exhaust gas has to be diverted away from the turbine, no issues there. The higher up you go with boost the chances of boost creep go down.

That is why you see high HP turbo cars using 38mm waste gates, you don't need to divert much exhaust gas because most of it has to go through the turbine.


Originally Posted by rcdash
2. i would like clarification on how the turbo is held in place - stainless steel exhaust components may be enough...
It is held in place by the entire exhaust system. This is how I had it for the year, and again no issues with many track days. I am looking at adding another exhaust hanger for added security, although I don't think it is needed.


Originally Posted by rcdash
3. i would be interested in knowing the flexibility for different turbos.
The kit will come with a V-band inlet port and V-band outlet port. This means that you can bolt up any turbo you wish. Something like this:



Removing the turbo will take about 5 minutes, once the car is lifter.



Here is a list of turbos from Precision:

http://www.precisionturbo.net/small-...bochargers.php

If you go down the list you will see that the 6780E is rated at 790hp. I would recomend staying with the E compressor cove, althogh I had no issues with the larger S cover on my car.


Originally Posted by rcdash
I think this kit may be more viable than any other, esp for those on stock blocks...
This is why I have the smaller FMIC available. If one does not want to build the block why go overboard with the turbo and FMIC. However, the mounting hardware will be the same for both FMIC's, so upgrading is just a matter of getting the larger FMIC.

Last edited by Boosted Performance; 01-26-2010 at 08:35 AM.
Old 01-26-2010, 08:31 AM
  #27  
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I have put a ton of hours researching to make this kit as good as it can be. I understand that people will always question things, and have opinions and that is fine.

I do try to provide explanations for everyone that has concerns or issues with this kit. This is why the entire build was documented well, with a ton of pictures. I can, at any time refer to these or my original build thread to answer or address any concerns. I stand behind this product because I know it inside out, and believe that is a great option.
Old 01-26-2010, 09:39 AM
  #28  
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it was a matter of fact comment, not so much anything towards the kit. the VQ has come a long ways since 2003.

There's no reason this kit wont make as high of numbers as the tuner is willing to push. its not rocket science. its just routing exhaust gases to spin a turbine.

Originally Posted by rcdash
HR/VHR motors make their power above 6.5-7k... not the same as making that power throughout the rev band - it's all about the area under the curve

bp, can you clarify what you mean about the optional turbo? The upgraded turbo is not in the same location?
Old 01-26-2010, 09:48 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
it was a matter of fact comment, not so much anything towards the kit. the VQ has come a long ways since 2003.

There's no reason this kit wont make as high of numbers as the tuner is willing to push. its not rocket science. its just routing exhaust gases to spin a turbine.
I agree with you, just adding my 2 cents. A nice broad flat torque curve defines the new VQ engines, and that's a good thing.

While turbo kits are conceptually simple, the devil is in the details and the OP seems to excel in that area. Does the SFR kit have the oil drain reservoir with breather to allow oil to drain out of the turbo upon turn off? Tim experienced issues with his turbos smoking, which he attributed to oil weight, but perhaps this is the real fix.

BP, it's nice to have a kit where you can just purchase off the shelf turbos (unlike JWT, APS). Thanks for the responses.

Last edited by rcdash; 01-26-2010 at 09:51 AM.
Old 01-26-2010, 10:22 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Boosted Performance
That is your opinion, we are all entitled to one.



Really? How is this one:


Rated to flow 1300cfm or 1000hp.



How are the other turbos mounted? Think about it, what would happen if you attach the turbo to the chassis? Hint: engine/exhaust moves.



No it is not, it sits plenty hight, so there is no chance of it hitting anything. I have driven over some massive Wall Mart speed bumps without any issues.




Again, this is your opinion. If you wish, follow the link in my signature it will take you through the entire build, from the first tac weld to the install.
really, I am not trying to be negative.... when I say it isn't really a viable option, I would say I was refering more in general to twin turbo kits. Really those make the most sense IMHO on these motors. I have installed the APS single and seen other manufacturers offerings with singles and it really comes down to the fact there isn't a really good way to do it. You are either cramming piping in areas where space is too limited, running excessive amount of piping, or both.

In your setup I would still have concern about turbo placement and how it is mounted. I don't care about your extensive 'walmart speed bump' testing. It is hanging too much in the open for my liking. I have worked on enough cars to know it isn't the speed bumps that do damage, it is the road debris on the highways. It may never be an issue, but it very well could be.

The mounting of the turbo I feel will be putting too much stress on the piping for the exact reason you state. flex in the engine and exhaust components. I would have longevity concerns.
Old 01-26-2010, 10:28 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rcdash
Tim experienced issues with his turbos smoking, which he attributed to oil weight, but perhaps this is the real fix.

I can guarantee that nobody with this setup will have any smoking issues at all. I had a buddy drive the car in front of me with a number of WOT runs on the highway. I did not see even the slightest hint of smoke, so the reservoir is proven to work well.

Originally Posted by rcdash
BP, it's nice to have a kit where you can just purchase off the shelf turbos (unlike JWT, APS). Thanks for the responses.
That was the main reason I changed the design. If you look at the original setup and the turbo on the left:



I had to cut the compressor outlet and weld a 120deg elbow to it. With the way things were routed every turbo would have to have that done to it, and that was not the answer.

The new version also accommodates 2.75" IC piping from turbo to intercooler, so plenty big for high HP applications.
Old 01-26-2010, 10:42 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Zivman
really, I am not trying to be negative.... when I say it isn't really a viable option, I would say I was refering more in general to twin turbo kits. Really those make the most sense IMHO on these motors. I have installed the APS single and seen other manufacturers offerings with singles and it really comes down to the fact there isn't a really good way to do it. You are either cramming piping in areas where space is too limited, running excessive amount of piping, or both.
Then go and get a TT kit, it's your money. If you feel like taking the motor out to install them, that is fine. I am not here to judge. I am just stating what this kit will do.

Originally Posted by Zivman
In your setup I would still have concern about turbo placement and how it is mounted. I don't care about your extensive 'walmart speed bump' testing. It is hanging too much in the open for my liking. I have worked on enough cars to know it isn't the speed bumps that do damage, it is the road debris on the highways. It may never be an issue, but it very well could be.

The same can be said for the oil pan then, ofcourse if you run over a rock going 80 miles/h something will brake under the car. I don't think that needs to be explained to anybody.


Originally Posted by Zivman
The mounting of the turbo I feel will be putting too much stress on the piping for the exact reason you state. flex in the engine and exhaust components. I would have longevity concerns.
Most of the weight sits on the exhaust past the Y-pipe. This section is supported with exhaust hangers, so i don't think it's a problem at all. Once it is all bolted up, it is well secured and moves with the engine.
Old 01-26-2010, 10:49 AM
  #33  
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i dunno if venting the reservoir is really a fix. SP doesnt vent theirs and no one has had a smoking problem. The reservoirs are also huge compared to the OP's. 6"x2"x2" ( = 0.4 quarts)

A bonus is if the OP's kit can clear bumps without hitting the crossover pipe, then there is no way that the reservoir will get knocked bc its only 2" deep as opposed to the pipe which is 2.5" plus the clearance distance from the tranny.

+1 on the T3/T4 flange idea. YOu can mount anything up there.

Originally Posted by rcdash
I agree with you, just adding my 2 cents. A nice broad flat torque curve defines the new VQ engines, and that's a good thing.

While turbo kits are conceptually simple, the devil is in the details and the OP seems to excel in that area. Does the SFR kit have the oil drain reservoir with breather to allow oil to drain out of the turbo upon turn off? Tim experienced issues with his turbos smoking, which he attributed to oil weight, but perhaps this is the real fix.

BP, it's nice to have a kit where you can just purchase off the shelf turbos (unlike JWT, APS). Thanks for the responses.

Last edited by str8dum1; 01-26-2010 at 10:53 AM.
Old 01-26-2010, 10:53 AM
  #34  
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good stuff! cant wait to see numbers!!
Old 01-26-2010, 11:00 AM
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Wow.... Glad to see you over here as a vendor..... I remember when you first started.... Keep up the good work....
Old 01-26-2010, 11:08 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
i dunno if venting the reservoir is really a fix. SP doesnt vent theirs and no one has had a smoking problem. The reservoirs are also huge compared to the OP's. 6"x2"x2" ( = 0.4 quarts)

A bonus is if the OP's kit can clear bumps without hitting the crossover pipe, then there is no way that the reservoir will get knocked bc its only 2" deep as opposed to the pipe which is 2.5" plus the clearance distance from the tranny.

+1 on the T3/T4 flange idea. YOu can mount anything up there.
You would have to run over something massive to knock the reservoir off. I changed the size of it too. It is now 1"x1"x6". You can see here how it sits, and that it is higher than the coompressor cover:



You can see here that nothing is hanging low:

Old 01-26-2010, 11:29 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Boosted Performance
Then go and get a TT kit, it's your money. If you feel like taking the motor out to install them, that is fine. I am not here to judge. I am just stating what this kit will do.

I already have a TT kit....


The same can be said for the oil pan then, ofcourse if you run over a rock going 80 miles/h something will brake under the car. I don't think that needs to be explained to anybody.
True, which is a concern, but from my expeirence with the cars, I have seen debris hits more in the area where your turbo is placed.




Most of the weight sits on the exhaust past the Y-pipe. This section is supported with exhaust hangers, so i don't think it's a problem at all. Once it is all bolted up, it is well secured and moves with the engine.
fair enough
Old 02-07-2010, 12:56 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Zivman
fair enough

Wait, how do you know debris is hitting that area of the car when there is nothing there to begin with to show damage from debris? do you have a camera under the car?

I've seen pieces of metal go through people's radiators on the interstate, should we all put a push bumper with reinforced mesh screens on the fronts of our cars to combat something that happens to less than 1% of the population?

Facts:

turbo sits 2" higher than any component of the car (as shown on the other fabrication thread)

piping has the same clearance

Your arguements basically are towards any rear mount turbo. This one has the steps taken to make them not vunerable. Anything that happens to it is pure chance and not due to design efforts. There's no way you can prevent every weird occurance from happening.
Old 02-07-2010, 01:28 PM
  #39  
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Hey man, what would a price for a kit shipped to 21401 cost? Does this kit come with options? What are you using for tuning? PM me, I'm kind of interested in this, may be the first one in my area to own one?
Old 02-07-2010, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by binder
Wait, how do you know debris is hitting that area of the car when there is nothing there to begin with to show damage from debris? do you have a camera under the car?

I've seen pieces of metal go through people's radiators on the interstate, should we all put a push bumper with reinforced mesh screens on the fronts of our cars to combat something that happens to less than 1% of the population?

Facts:

turbo sits 2" higher than any component of the car (as shown on the other fabrication thread)

piping has the same clearance

Your arguements basically are towards any rear mount turbo. This one has the steps taken to make them not vunerable. Anything that happens to it is pure chance and not due to design efforts. There's no way you can prevent every weird occurance from happening.
I have worked on a few Z's and G's and seen damage to exhaust piping, cross members and under carriage in areas that are very near to where that turbo is placed....

My point here is that, twins make much more sense on this car. Especially when you are resorting to placing the turbo in an area like this


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