binder

iTrader: (8)

Mine runs good but there is always something small going wrong with it so every week I have to fix something dumb. So now when i think "i'll take the car today" i decide against it because who knows what will break that day and i don't have time to deal with it.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

first world problems..........we have them! lol.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Going to go with earls speed flex lines. rated for 450 degrees. Should be enough.

I measured the Forged Performance line kit, roughly 24" and 33" for the two lines.

I was just out in the garage "reinstalling" the turbos and intakes. Shouldnt be too bad to get everything back in place. Getting gaskets to stay in place will be the biggest challenge! Other than that, the pipes that connect to the turbos are not that bad to install. Once I get the first pipes on the turbos the rest is cake.

binder

iTrader: (8)

i know, life is so hard with a 650hp car.

Get some copper gasket spray and put some of that on the gaskets. Let it dry a little and it will get sticky to help hold the gaskets in place while you line everything up. RTV works but it's more messy and the gaskets can still slide. The copper spray is pretty sticky and holds the gaskets in place really well.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Turbos are all hung again, new oil lines. Compressor side charge pipes are all run, just need to tighten the t-bolts.

Whats left:
-Driver side wastegate
-Both down pipes and dump tubes
-cosworth plenum (pcv valve mount, boost solenoid mount )
-maf tube, long intake pipe
-fill with oil

Getting close!

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

she is alive!


2 issues before she would start
-starter was replaced with a reman from advance auto parts. The connector to the solenoid is not 100% right. Barely makes contact and doesnt snap into the other connector. Had to zip tie it shut

-other issue was i forgot to power up my gauges. My AEM boost gauge provides the signal for the haltech map sensor...without it the car is dead. Well, i installed a new aem oil temp gauge and in the process i forgot to attach the screw for the power jumper. Once that was connected she fired right up.

Was kind of good to not fire up right away. Using the starter to turn the motor/oil pump helped to prime the oil system back up.

Quamen

iTrader: (14)

Nice!!!!! My old motor makes me ALMOST want to put a VQ back in... Unfortunately that wont be happening. I want to see this thing run!

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Once i confirm she is in good working order it is off to get a final tune!

Tune, paint work and air cup suspension are on my to do list.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Things I replaced this go around:

-Cam solenoids - these were actually the originals off my motor! I powdercoated them to match the intake pipes
-Starter
-Alternator
-Turbos
-Oil Lines
-Power steering line
-Oil Temp gauge

Not "a lot" compared to the original amount of work, but a decent amount.

Now to clean up the garage, run the engine a bit more to test for leaks and then put the wheels back on and road test.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

When you want to trade your LS for the VQ let me know.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

quick drive

starter is a POS. Damn electrical connector doesnt seat right.

Steering wheel is off. Dont know how, i lined up the marks. Wheel is turned left to go straight. Should be an easy fix.

I still do not think my southbend clutch is fully disengaging. Never has worked right. Sounds like I am getting some noise from the throwout bearing.

binder

iTrader: (8)

so the car still pulls while the clutch is in fully? Just need to adjust the pedal. I recommend the RJM clutch bracket. It made my triple disk carbonetics feel like stock. It's amazing.

I always have to adjust the steering wheel a few times after i remove it. Even when i make marks with a sharpie i still never get it right the first time. lol. PITA

taywan

iTrader: (53)

I'm waiting a good race on the rd there Cux. Lets get that thing rolling.



Lol
Jk

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Just drove down 85 for a bit. I like having the stock springs...so soft and comfy. I need to get them back to you though. Would you be interested in dropping a transmission? I dont have the jack to do it.

I have adjusted the crap out of the clutch pedal. This southbend has never fully disengaged. Replaced the transmission during the initial work but I do not remember what we did with the fork pivot ball. Went from a non cd009 to a cd009 but reading about it on the forum makes my mind numb since i cannot get a 1 sentence definitive answer. We may have short one when we need a long one...IDK.

Makes me feel better about the steering angle then. I used my wifes white nail polish ( the upper shaft only goes on the coupler 1 way and that is the one i marked.........doh) and then the blue collar on the lower one marked the orientation, or so i thought. Just had the wife sit in the car and hold the wheel straight, lined up the wheels and reattached. Pretty simple really. Ran great now, no vdc/slip light.

Just ran the car on the road for 20 minutes and parked the car in the garage with cardboard underneath to pick up any fluids. I hope its dry this time tomorrow.

Starter is still an issue. With the oem starter all i had to do was clutch in and start. This one I have to be out of gear. I was wondering if it was an alignment thing or the way the gears are cut. I may just bite the bullet and buy an oem one instead of a reman.

My clutch already drives like stock when cruising. Starts and stops are not a problem either. Its just with the pedal to the floor it takes a lot of effort to get into 1st or reverse. FML, it is always something.

binder

iTrader: (8)

ya, so it's not throwing it long enough. So you need to raise the pedal. The RJM will make it easier to adjust the length of the throw.

about the pivot ball. when i went to a cd 009 infiniti put the correct pivot ball in there for me. I'm pretty sure it was shorter than my old one so I think the short one is the correct one.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

that kinda goes what is listed here

http://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/...397.82.179.247

short for newer transmissions, long for the old ones. Pretty sure we used the one that came with the transmission.

Maybe I order the RJM and see if that works. And if that doesnt, 2 clutch pivot ***** and the upgraded fork and new clutch kit.

Thanks for the advice

taywan

iTrader: (53)

Got a friend that builds trannys so I can get a Trans jack anytime pretty much. We can knock it out. Just have to arrange it all. No biggie.

binder

iTrader: (8)

i've never used a trans jack to do mine. Unbolt it, get under it and pull it backwards and hold it up. Let it down gently to the floor then drag it out from under the car. I use a standard jack to help align it when i push it back up into place. With 2 people this should be cake. I do it in about an hour (including removing all my turbo stuff) by myself.

the new RJM bracket is a godsend. You just need to adjust it so the throw is longer on the clutch arm and you are golden.

taywan

iTrader: (53)

Yea. I was thinking again and when we did throw out bearing. I don't recall using a jack. Been a while.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Ordered the RJM bracket. Read through the install which seems tedious and the setup and sounds like it could help me with my car.

If not......drop the transmission.

After doing the rear diff by myself i dont think i would do it again. Much less the transmission. That is a lot of weight hanging over your head.