Amazing work from Boost Lab
#21
Registered User
If thats the case.....I already beat those numbers on a stock DE valvetrain
lol
Have to get my jabs in every noe and again lol...
GL with the plan. Keep us updated.
Tom
lol
Have to get my jabs in every noe and again lol...
GL with the plan. Keep us updated.
Tom
I never said they weren't touching the suspension. All I said was why the big horepower goal, when time attack focuses on acceleration and handling.... reading comprehension my friend.
Nice list of parts, I still think you can achieve your goals with 300-400whp less then your lofty goal. Something tells me it's for nut swinging rights!
I LOL's when I read this!
Nice list of parts, I still think you can achieve your goals with 300-400whp less then your lofty goal. Something tells me it's for nut swinging rights!
I LOL's when I read this!
#22
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Not a problem, this should give you a better idea on the benefits of an MFS wheel.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob..._Machined.html
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob..._Machined.html
#23
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I never said they weren't touching the suspension. All I said was why the big horepower goal, when time attack focuses on acceleration and handling.... reading comprehension my friend.
Nice list of parts, I still think you can achieve your goals with 300-400whp less then your lofty goal. Something tells me it's for nut swinging rights!
I LOL's when I read this!
Nice list of parts, I still think you can achieve your goals with 300-400whp less then your lofty goal. Something tells me it's for nut swinging rights!
I LOL's when I read this!
#24
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Who does this large of a build without wanting to show off how big their ***** are? Lol, of course we are doing the big number to brag however, it is important to know what the max is on the motor after all of this work.
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This anti-lag feature in combination with some other features is what makes it possible to run big turbo power on the track. Makes it like driving a completely NA high power car. Beautiful!
#26
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Why the "greddy" bbk?
Theyre just re-branded rotoras and have the worst pad selection. Stoptech would have been a cheaper solution with a much greater pad selection. Hell, for the price of the greddy brakes why not go with AP racing.
Not dissing, just asking.
Theyre just re-branded rotoras and have the worst pad selection. Stoptech would have been a cheaper solution with a much greater pad selection. Hell, for the price of the greddy brakes why not go with AP racing.
Not dissing, just asking.
#27
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I have yet to see anyone run the 8pot Greddy system on the 350z (cost is probably the reason) however here is my opinion.
The stoptechs did work incredible and from all the research I had done, they were the best for our car.
The Greddy's I had never seen anything about. They are much larger in the front than the Stoptech, but a little smaller in the rear (385mm front 335mm rear). They are however much meatier and I like how solid the hats are. Much more than the stoptechs. I have not had the greddys on the track yet to compare to the stoptech however I am confident the will perform better. I drive this car a **** ton and I like the Greddy's better and are very confident they will outperform the stoptechs on the track.
As for as pads, we are having pads for them made by Hawk. They will make any pad you want (at a premium of course).
I don't think they are relabeled brakes and I would like to know where you got the info so I can find out and post the truth.
#30
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I have not spoken with Greddy yet however here is the info I have found in some research.
If Greddy's are made by the same manufacturer as Rotors, there is nothing wrong with that and it's actually a good thing.
Aparently there is a taiwanese company that makes OEM brake systems for a **** load of auto makers. This company decided to come in to the aftermarket brake world. They founded Rotora. They also made all of StopTech's brake systems for some time as well.
If Greddy's are made by this taiwanese company, I feel even more confident. This taiwanese company aparently has been in this business for a long time making brake systems for lots of auto manufactures and that's the experience I would want going in to my brake system.
Stoptech, I guess around 05, stopped having their stuff manufactured by this taiwanese company and have no idea who makes them now. Don't get me wrong, I like Stoptech, scratch that, I love Stoptech. They were an incredible setup for the track and I barely got pedal fade when I ran them.
As stated before, I have not been to the track on the Greddy's. Once this motor is done we will have a lot of test and tune track days until is debut in to the Redline time attack series. I really do feel these Greddy (or whatever you want to call them) brakes will outperform the stoptechs when it comes to being on and off the pedal for long periods of time. The calipers are larger than Stoptechs (largest caliper for the 350Z from Stoptech is 6POT) which means more initial bite (I know some may say it also has to do with the size of each piston, well they are the same size as Stoptechs). The rotors are larger and meatier which means they should be able to disapate the heat better and be able to handle the track abuse better.
The only thing that I have felt different about the brakes is the biasing. I will check the bias next time at the track.
If Greddy's are made by the same manufacturer as Rotors, there is nothing wrong with that and it's actually a good thing.
Aparently there is a taiwanese company that makes OEM brake systems for a **** load of auto makers. This company decided to come in to the aftermarket brake world. They founded Rotora. They also made all of StopTech's brake systems for some time as well.
If Greddy's are made by this taiwanese company, I feel even more confident. This taiwanese company aparently has been in this business for a long time making brake systems for lots of auto manufactures and that's the experience I would want going in to my brake system.
Stoptech, I guess around 05, stopped having their stuff manufactured by this taiwanese company and have no idea who makes them now. Don't get me wrong, I like Stoptech, scratch that, I love Stoptech. They were an incredible setup for the track and I barely got pedal fade when I ran them.
As stated before, I have not been to the track on the Greddy's. Once this motor is done we will have a lot of test and tune track days until is debut in to the Redline time attack series. I really do feel these Greddy (or whatever you want to call them) brakes will outperform the stoptechs when it comes to being on and off the pedal for long periods of time. The calipers are larger than Stoptechs (largest caliper for the 350Z from Stoptech is 6POT) which means more initial bite (I know some may say it also has to do with the size of each piston, well they are the same size as Stoptechs). The rotors are larger and meatier which means they should be able to disapate the heat better and be able to handle the track abuse better.
The only thing that I have felt different about the brakes is the biasing. I will check the bias next time at the track.
#31
Cranky FI Owner
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Hey Alberto, I remember you. Your a retard that thinks he knows EVERYTHING.
Why do I need 2 EDFC's? (laughing at you) Maybe because Tein SRC's are dual dampening. This means I can adjust inward dampening and rebound thus requiring 2 units. You wouldn't know that because you assume you know everything and quickly post.
Maybe you should read my reaponse about big numbers and reliability again. I said "build it big and run it at only 75% or less of that power and we will get good reliability for a few seasons. Here is another example on how you failed to accurately read the post. You quickly post ignorant *** comments.
How do you know this car is capable of putting down when finished? Have you ever done a build of this magnitude? I think not, your all around ignorance shows me you do not have the intelligence to make enough money to throw over 100k at a toy.
The amount of power these turbos will help the motor create is not soley factored on how much boost they produce. Other factors such as compression, displacement, valve size, and much more + the turbos will determine power output. This again is something I have to explain to someone that thinks they know everything.
Please stay out of threads. I have yet to see you post anything useful in any thread.
Why do I need 2 EDFC's? (laughing at you) Maybe because Tein SRC's are dual dampening. This means I can adjust inward dampening and rebound thus requiring 2 units. You wouldn't know that because you assume you know everything and quickly post.
Maybe you should read my reaponse about big numbers and reliability again. I said "build it big and run it at only 75% or less of that power and we will get good reliability for a few seasons. Here is another example on how you failed to accurately read the post. You quickly post ignorant *** comments.
How do you know this car is capable of putting down when finished? Have you ever done a build of this magnitude? I think not, your all around ignorance shows me you do not have the intelligence to make enough money to throw over 100k at a toy.
The amount of power these turbos will help the motor create is not soley factored on how much boost they produce. Other factors such as compression, displacement, valve size, and much more + the turbos will determine power output. This again is something I have to explain to someone that thinks they know everything.
Please stay out of threads. I have yet to see you post anything useful in any thread.
Just looked up the SRC I didnt know about the 2 EDFC's, having installed it I didnt comprehend how it would work, seeing pics of the actual units now I do.
Will you be running sleeves?
I know the factors that go into huge numbers, but all the headwork in the world in conjunction with big compressors wont do $hit if you run the comparably small turbines. I feel like you are overdoing the heads and limiting yourself on the turbos, its contradictory, but hey its your money....and on that front....
I dont care how much money you make or how much you spend on your car, in fact I dont share that info with anybody but you seem to be the opposite wanting to prove yourself by bring that crap up.
#32
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Funny you remmeber me because I have no idea who the fawk you are.
Just looked up the SRC I didnt know about the 2 EDFC's, having installed it I didnt comprehend how it would work, seeing pics of the actual units now I do.
Will you be running sleeves?
I know the factors that go into huge numbers, but all the headwork in the world in conjunction with big compressors wont do $hit if you run the comparably small turbines. I feel like you are overdoing the heads and limiting yourself on the turbos, its contradictory, but hey its your money....and on that front....
I dont care how much money you make or how much you spend on your car, in fact I dont share that info with anybody but you seem to be the opposite wanting to prove yourself by bring that crap up.
Just looked up the SRC I didnt know about the 2 EDFC's, having installed it I didnt comprehend how it would work, seeing pics of the actual units now I do.
Will you be running sleeves?
I know the factors that go into huge numbers, but all the headwork in the world in conjunction with big compressors wont do $hit if you run the comparably small turbines. I feel like you are overdoing the heads and limiting yourself on the turbos, its contradictory, but hey its your money....and on that front....
I dont care how much money you make or how much you spend on your car, in fact I dont share that info with anybody but you seem to be the opposite wanting to prove yourself by bring that crap up.
A member posting a thread wanting to know about TT'ing his HR motor. He wanted to know what was safe, what wasn't, what to look out for, etc. So, everyone is posting their situations and helping this person and you come in and here is a copy of your response, and mine.
Wow, you are easily amused. Is it wrong to use the word "usually" when speaking about when people that boost engines designed for NA or add more boost to an engine designed for a different boost level?
I guess you laugh at all things that are not funny.
You could have used your time more effeciently and actually posted "helpful" information for everyone that is watching the post rather than some stupid comments but I guess you are just too intelligent for that.
All hail retardo Alberto!
____________________________________________________
I jumped on your **** there for being an ******* then and I had to jump on your **** here.
As far as the motor goes, the brand new block (we built a whole new motor outside of the car) we shipped it to Darton and had them install the sleeves.
I said in earlier posts, we may end up limited by the turbo's and stated that "if" we feel we can deal with slower spooling, then we will have the turbine changed out from the 64MM wheel (I think that was the factory size for the 20G) to somewhere in the 70's. There is a 80MM one we can put in however, I don't want to risk killing the turbo during a race or having a slow spool time.
As far as money goes, I stated that because you stick your neck in to places it doesn't belong. You make stupid comments instead of answering the questions the members are trying to ask. End result, you cause more confusion and waste posts rather than help.
You do have a nicely built motor however, this build, motor and car, is outside what you have experienced so to make statements like "What do you need 2 EDFC's LOL" to try and make me look stupid and like I don't know what I am talking about is a waste of time and in turn only made you look like an *******.
#34
Cranky FI Owner
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Well Im sure you feel your shop has the "secret recipe" to sleeves and making them work, honestly we have yet to see that on road vehicles and road racing.
But its well known and very proven that sleeves + road racing + any kind of power wont last long. Add to that somebody that wants HUGE power but only wants to run it at 75% its a recipe for disaster. I ran my sleeved setup at 50% of what it was claimed to handle and boom in 9000 miles, much less if I had it on a road course.
I hope you look hard at your cooling, oil and especially coolant as you know you're limiting the flow with sleeves. But hey you're the new expert in town!
Anyways, nice to see you were all butthurt over that thread I wasnt the only one who thought you were posting usless info, here is your chance to prove us all wrong.
But its well known and very proven that sleeves + road racing + any kind of power wont last long. Add to that somebody that wants HUGE power but only wants to run it at 75% its a recipe for disaster. I ran my sleeved setup at 50% of what it was claimed to handle and boom in 9000 miles, much less if I had it on a road course.
I hope you look hard at your cooling, oil and especially coolant as you know you're limiting the flow with sleeves. But hey you're the new expert in town!
Anyways, nice to see you were all butthurt over that thread I wasnt the only one who thought you were posting usless info, here is your chance to prove us all wrong.
#35
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Well Im sure you feel your shop has the "secret recipe" to sleeves and making them work, honestly we have yet to see that on road vehicles and road racing.
But its well known and very proven that sleeves + road racing + any kind of power wont last long. Add to that somebody that wants HUGE power but only wants to run it at 75% its a recipe for disaster. I ran my sleeved setup at 50% of what it was claimed to handle and boom in 9000 miles, much less if I had it on a road course.
I hope you look hard at your cooling, oil and especially coolant as you know you're limiting the flow with sleeves. But hey you're the new expert in town!
Anyways, nice to see you were all butthurt over that thread I wasnt the only one who thought you were posting usless info, here is your chance to prove us all wrong.
But its well known and very proven that sleeves + road racing + any kind of power wont last long. Add to that somebody that wants HUGE power but only wants to run it at 75% its a recipe for disaster. I ran my sleeved setup at 50% of what it was claimed to handle and boom in 9000 miles, much less if I had it on a road course.
I hope you look hard at your cooling, oil and especially coolant as you know you're limiting the flow with sleeves. But hey you're the new expert in town!
Anyways, nice to see you were all butthurt over that thread I wasnt the only one who thought you were posting usless info, here is your chance to prove us all wrong.
#36
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We also had a custom plenum made and the first prototype should be done today or tomorrow. As soon as I have pics of that I will post them here and in the thread about the new plenum.
Cooling is in the list below.
In the event you want the full list, here it is.
Motor:
VQ35HR Stroked to 4.2L
Greddy Twin Turbos (Two 20G Turbos) Ported & Polished w/large compressor wheel
CP Pistons
Brian Crower Rods
Brian Crower Billet Crank
Ferrea 2mm over sized competition valves, springs and titanium retainers
Ported, Polished and Reflowed Heads (Flowed 37% more than stock!)
Engine completely balanced and blueprinted
Tomei Cams
Block sleeved by Darton
Custom Designed 6061 T6 Aluminum Twin Throttlebody Plenum
All components have been Cryogenically treated in an SubZero Cryo unit
Exaust:
Ported and Polished Headers
Ceramic Coated Headers and Exaust System
Straight Exaust Dump off with electronic valves for routing through the Greddy Ti-C exaust system while on public streets.
Suspension:
Tein SRC Dual Dampening Coilovers with External Resevoirs
2 Tein Electronic Dampening Force Controller (EDFC) Units cockpit mounted
Tein 16kg Springs Front and Rear
Tein Tie Rods
GTSpec 2 Point Rear Lower Brace
GTSpec Front 4 Point Ladder Brace
GTSpec Front Lower Tie Brace
GTSpec Rear Lower Tie Brace
GTSpec Rear Lateral Arm Brace
GTSpec Fender Braces
Hotchkis Adjustable Sway Bars
PowerGrid Swaybar Endlinks
SPL Adjustable A-Arms
SPL Adjustable Rear Toe Arm
SPL Adjustable Rear Trailing Arm
Stillen Core Support Bar
Whiteline Front and Rear Urethane Bushings
Whiteline Rear Traction Bushings
Whiteline Sub-Frame Bushings
Custom Roll Cage by SnR Performance
Brakes:
Greddy 8POT Front Calipers
Greddy 4POT Rear Calipers
Greddy 385MM Slotted Front Rotors
Greddy 335MM Slotted Rear Rotors
Greddy Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Stillen Master Cylinder Support Bar
Cooling and Fuel:
Altered Atmosphere Return Fuel System
1600CC injectors
Greddy Performance Radiator
Greddy Oil Cooler
Greddy Air Diversion Plate
NISMO Thermostat
Dual Walbro 255 fuel pumps
Custom Brake Cooling Duct System
ARC Belly Pan
Rear diff cooler
Transmission Cooler
Transmission:
OS Giken Triple Plate Racing Clutch
OS Giken Racing LSD
Rear Axle Brace
Electronics:
Haltec ECU with all sensors
Greddy Infometer Touch Complete System with all sensors
Greddy Profec B-Spec II Boost Controller
Greddy Profec Remote Switch
DashDaq Datalogging System with Accelerometers
Stillen Grounding Kit
Last edited by GAMERMODZoCOM; 05-03-2010 at 02:20 PM.
#37
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i knew i recognized the screen name/car.. i think this is you behind me on the front straight at sebring. your car was kinda hard to forget with those graphics. build looks like its gonna be a beast..
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#39
Registered User
Nice,
For the ultimate power you want (especially to fully utilize power of setup) I don't think twin walbro's are gonna get you there. May need to add another walbro or an inline as well. Or twin Bosch's. (I have triple walbro's, and the third pump comes on with my setup.....so not gonna see big big numbers I don't think with just 2).
For the track.....I'd say a really good fuel sump setup (thats what we ran in a porsche GT3 cup fuel cell setup...5 total pumps lol)
just my $0.02
Tom
For the ultimate power you want (especially to fully utilize power of setup) I don't think twin walbro's are gonna get you there. May need to add another walbro or an inline as well. Or twin Bosch's. (I have triple walbro's, and the third pump comes on with my setup.....so not gonna see big big numbers I don't think with just 2).
For the track.....I'd say a really good fuel sump setup (thats what we ran in a porsche GT3 cup fuel cell setup...5 total pumps lol)
just my $0.02
Tom
Last edited by thom000001; 05-03-2010 at 08:24 AM.
#40
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i knew i recognized the screen name/car.. i think this is you behind me on the front straight at sebring. your car was kinda hard to forget with those graphics. build looks like its gonna be a beast..
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Yeah you were the blue Z that was doing about 450RWHP or something right? We were doing a test and tune on the supspension that weekend.
If that is you, I remember you were behind me for a lap and half or so but and I was trying to let you pass one the straights but I just come through the turns so fast it kept putting a gap back between us. I remember coming up to turn 7 and the car in front of me was going to let me pass so I let you pass both of us and I got stuck behind him till I exited 7. Then I remember coming up to "I think it was turn 9 or 10" and you spun out right?
I was only putting down 296rwhp compared to you being over 400rwhp it does go to show you that handling is key and why we chose to do this to the NISMO.
Again, if that was you I am thinking of. I know if was a blue Z this situation happened to just not sure if it was yours.
If so, way to push the car to the limit! Now you know the limit lol. It is something that MUST be done. I usually change my dampening to give me some understeer and I find my limit that way when I first get out. I know where my car is balanced but in situations like that day with a track temp of 155 degrees and hard apexes like Sebring, it gets a little rough.
I also had that red Z4 try and follow my line and spin out at turn 7 behind me. So funny... No one wrecked their car that weekend so that was good.
I didni't get any video that day so pretty cool you had that. Now if only it was't focused on that damn blue Z! lol, jk