Amazing work from Boost Lab
Amazing work from Boost Lab
Some of you know we are building GamerModZ Nismo to 1100 plus. Since Greddy was one of the big sponsors and we decided to use there kit.
To achieve the power we needed to acquire some porting on the turbo’s and upgraded to 60-1.
We sent our turbo’s off to Boost lab in Miami(soon to be relocated to Tampa).
Kirk kept us to date on the progress and very professional. If you looking to get more from your setup this is the place for professional work.
Thanks Kirk
Here some pics
To achieve the power we needed to acquire some porting on the turbo’s and upgraded to 60-1.
We sent our turbo’s off to Boost lab in Miami(soon to be relocated to Tampa).
Kirk kept us to date on the progress and very professional. If you looking to get more from your setup this is the place for professional work.
Thanks Kirk
Here some pics
Greddy' s kits for the HR come with 20G's. We wanted to create more boost with minimizing turbo lag. Plus in the HR there is no room for larger turbos.
A 4.2L stroked HR will be spooling these up nicely.
A 4.2L stroked HR will be spooling these up nicely.
He didnt ask why you stuck with 20g's he asked why you didnt upgrade the turbine side. The hot side is about the same size as a gt3076. Your exhaust backpressure will make it hard to run 1100hp 
Once we get everything on, tested, and tuned, if we find out we need more boost and can deal with a longer spool time, then we can upgrade it.
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It looks like an impressive compressor side upgrade - thanks for sharing. The material looks the same and that would add to the weight of the rotating assembly - was there an option for a billet wheel? I eventually plan to rebuild my turbos, but I don't want to add to the spool time either if I do upgrade - haven't found many options out there (already checked with Blouch - no billet wheel options but supposedly there is an HTA billet wheel from FP).
Last edited by rcdash; May 2, 2010 at 07:10 AM.
Billet wheels are generally not lighter and will not spool faster than a cast wheel of the same design. The only time you benefit from a billet wheel is when it has a more efficient design than what is currently available in cast.
SPL Front Adjustable Control Arms
SPL Rear Tranctions arms
SPL Rear Toe Arms
SPL Rear Camber Arms
GTSPEC Rear Lower Tie Brace
GTSPEC Rear Lateral Arm Brace
GTSPEC Front Lower Tie Brace
GTSPEC 4 Point Mid Chassis Brace
GTSPEC Fender Braces
Hotchki Sway Bars
TEIN SRC Dual Dampening Coilovers
TEIN EDFC x 2
TEIN 16kg Springs
TEIN Tie Rods
Greddy 8 POT w/385MM Slotted Rotors : Front
Greddy 4 POT w/335MM Slotted Rotors : Rear
Whiteline Subframe Bushings
Whiteline Front and Rear Urethane Bushings
Whiteline Rear Traction Bushing Kit
PowerGrid Swaybar Endlinks
I may have forgotten a few things but you get the idea
Also, we chose to do this to the NISMO 350Z because the seams of the frame were already welded from factory.
Last edited by GAMERMODZoCOM; May 2, 2010 at 08:29 AM.
Everything I have read to date indicated that billet was stronger and lighter. Admittedly it's all hearsay on the Internet. If you've got any solid references to substantiate the claim one way or another, I'd appreciate it.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob..._Machined.html
Why do I need 2 EDFC's? (laughing at you) Maybe because Tein SRC's are dual dampening. This means I can adjust inward dampening and rebound thus requiring 2 units. You wouldn't know that because you assume you know everything and quickly post.
Maybe you should read my reaponse about big numbers and reliability again. I said "build it big and run it at only 75% or less of that power and we will get good reliability for a few seasons. Here is another example on how you failed to accurately read the post. You quickly post ignorant *** comments.
How do you know this car is capable of putting down when finished? Have you ever done a build of this magnitude? I think not, your all around ignorance shows me you do not have the intelligence to make enough money to throw over 100k at a toy.
The amount of power these turbos will help the motor create is not soley factored on how much boost they produce. Other factors such as compression, displacement, valve size, and much more + the turbos will determine power output. This again is something I have to explain to someone that thinks they know everything.
Please stay out of threads. I have yet to see you post anything useful in any thread.
Hey Alberto, I remember you. Your a retard that thinks he knows EVERYTHING.
Why do I need 2 EDFC's? (laughing at you) Maybe because Tein SRC's are dual dampening. This means I can adjust inward dampening and rebound thus requiring 2 units. You wouldn't know that because you assume you know everything and quickly post.
Maybe you should read my reaponse about big numbers and reliability again. I said "build it big and run it at only 75% or less of that power and we will get good reliability for a few seasons. Here is another example on how you failed to accurately read the post. You quickly post ignorant *** comments.
How do you know this car is capable of putting down when finished? Have you ever done a build of this magnitude? I think not, your all around ignorance shows me you do not have the intelligence to make enough money to throw over 100k at a toy.
The amount of power these turbos will help the motor create is not soley factored on how much boost they produce. Other factors such as compression, displacement, valve size, and much more + the turbos will determine power output. This again is something I have to explain to someone that thinks they know everything.
Please stay out of threads. I have yet to see you post anything useful in any thread.
Why do I need 2 EDFC's? (laughing at you) Maybe because Tein SRC's are dual dampening. This means I can adjust inward dampening and rebound thus requiring 2 units. You wouldn't know that because you assume you know everything and quickly post.
Maybe you should read my reaponse about big numbers and reliability again. I said "build it big and run it at only 75% or less of that power and we will get good reliability for a few seasons. Here is another example on how you failed to accurately read the post. You quickly post ignorant *** comments.
How do you know this car is capable of putting down when finished? Have you ever done a build of this magnitude? I think not, your all around ignorance shows me you do not have the intelligence to make enough money to throw over 100k at a toy.
The amount of power these turbos will help the motor create is not soley factored on how much boost they produce. Other factors such as compression, displacement, valve size, and much more + the turbos will determine power output. This again is something I have to explain to someone that thinks they know everything.
Please stay out of threads. I have yet to see you post anything useful in any thread.
As mentioned though, since it's a roadrace car, no reason to make 1000hp, power is the easy part, putting it down and making it useful is the battle. Car like that making 600-700hp is gonna be a handful already. Smaller turbos fit the bill pretty well then.
Turbos are all about airflow. A small turbo like that is struggling at 500+hp. So planning on making 1000+ on a twin setup is gonna be a battle. If you're running a stroker motor that's fully done with high compression, might as well switch over to something bigger to make big numbers.
As mentioned though, since it's a roadrace car, no reason to make 1000hp, power is the easy part, putting it down and making it useful is the battle. Car like that making 600-700hp is gonna be a handful already. Smaller turbos fit the bill pretty well then.
As mentioned though, since it's a roadrace car, no reason to make 1000hp, power is the easy part, putting it down and making it useful is the battle. Car like that making 600-700hp is gonna be a handful already. Smaller turbos fit the bill pretty well then.
The motor is stroked to 4.2L using CP Pistons, Crower Rods and Crower Crank. It runs a full ported and polished head with a full Ferrea valve train with dual spring, titanium retainers, 1MM oversized valve on intake, 2MM oversized on exaust. The head flowed 37% more than stock.
This is no small or half *** done build.
We plan on attempting to run it at 700RWHP but are pretty confident we will have to drop it down to 600 or just above that. It is a lot to handle on the track.
The reason to hit the big number is to find out what this motor's limit is and of course maybe some bragging rights.
Keep in mind that Greddy did 1049RWHP on a built and stroked HR motor with two 20G's and they didn't go as far with the build as we went.
Last edited by GAMERMODZoCOM; May 2, 2010 at 04:26 PM.
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We are building it big and will only run it at about 75% or less power on the track. We want to make the big numbers and have reliability.
SPL Front Adjustable Control Arms
SPL Rear Tranctions arms
SPL Rear Toe Arms
SPL Rear Camber Arms
GTSPEC Rear Lower Tie Brace
GTSPEC Rear Lateral Arm Brace
GTSPEC Front Lower Tie Brace
GTSPEC 4 Point Mid Chassis Brace
GTSPEC Fender Braces
Hotchki Sway Bars
TEIN SRC Dual Dampening Coilovers
TEIN EDFC x 2
TEIN 16kg Springs
TEIN Tie Rods
Greddy 8 POT w/385MM Slotted Rotors : Front
Greddy 4 POT w/335MM Slotted Rotors : Rear
Whiteline Subframe Bushings
Whiteline Front and Rear Urethane Bushings
Whiteline Rear Traction Bushing Kit
PowerGrid Swaybar Endlinks
I may have forgotten a few things but you get the idea
Also, we chose to do this to the NISMO 350Z because the seams of the frame were already welded from factory.
SPL Front Adjustable Control Arms
SPL Rear Tranctions arms
SPL Rear Toe Arms
SPL Rear Camber Arms
GTSPEC Rear Lower Tie Brace
GTSPEC Rear Lateral Arm Brace
GTSPEC Front Lower Tie Brace
GTSPEC 4 Point Mid Chassis Brace
GTSPEC Fender Braces
Hotchki Sway Bars
TEIN SRC Dual Dampening Coilovers
TEIN EDFC x 2
TEIN 16kg Springs
TEIN Tie Rods
Greddy 8 POT w/385MM Slotted Rotors : Front
Greddy 4 POT w/335MM Slotted Rotors : Rear
Whiteline Subframe Bushings
Whiteline Front and Rear Urethane Bushings
Whiteline Rear Traction Bushing Kit
PowerGrid Swaybar Endlinks
I may have forgotten a few things but you get the idea
Also, we chose to do this to the NISMO 350Z because the seams of the frame were already welded from factory.
Hey Alberto, I remember you. Your a retard that thinks he knows EVERYTHING.
Why do I need 2 EDFC's? (laughing at you) Maybe because Tein SRC's are dual dampening. This means I can adjust inward dampening and rebound thus requiring 2 units. You wouldn't know that because you assume you know everything and quickly post.
Maybe you should read my reaponse about big numbers and reliability again. I said "build it big and run it at only 75% or less of that power and we will get good reliability for a few seasons. Here is another example on how you failed to accurately read the post. You quickly post ignorant *** comments.
How do you know this car is capable of putting down when finished? Have you ever done a build of this magnitude? I think not, your all around ignorance shows me you do not have the intelligence to make enough money to throw over 100k at a toy.
The amount of power these turbos will help the motor create is not soley factored on how much boost they produce. Other factors such as compression, displacement, valve size, and much more + the turbos will determine power output. This again is something I have to explain to someone that thinks they know everything.
Please stay out of threads. I have yet to see you post anything useful in any thread.
Why do I need 2 EDFC's? (laughing at you) Maybe because Tein SRC's are dual dampening. This means I can adjust inward dampening and rebound thus requiring 2 units. You wouldn't know that because you assume you know everything and quickly post.
Maybe you should read my reaponse about big numbers and reliability again. I said "build it big and run it at only 75% or less of that power and we will get good reliability for a few seasons. Here is another example on how you failed to accurately read the post. You quickly post ignorant *** comments.
How do you know this car is capable of putting down when finished? Have you ever done a build of this magnitude? I think not, your all around ignorance shows me you do not have the intelligence to make enough money to throw over 100k at a toy.
The amount of power these turbos will help the motor create is not soley factored on how much boost they produce. Other factors such as compression, displacement, valve size, and much more + the turbos will determine power output. This again is something I have to explain to someone that thinks they know everything.
Please stay out of threads. I have yet to see you post anything useful in any thread.
